Sunday, January 27, 2008

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #22: TOKYO ONE SUSHI & GRILL

Consider the term buffet. All right, now that your twisted little minds are duly considering, what images come to mind? I know, I know (I hear you cry), a bunch of overage, overweight people drearily forming a queue and duly shuffling from one steam table to the next, piling up heaping platefuls of mediocre cuisine? That's what comes to mind, right? Well then, consider the term cooking station. Ah, now the clouds are rolling back like so much English fog and the sun appears cheerful and bright. Cooking station! A smart, young chef du jour in a snow-white toque asking you if you like more or less garlic while he grills your meat and veggies to perfection. Considering? Yeah, man, and I can dig it! Well, campers, that's exactly what my lovely bride the Rock Star and I discovered on two separate visits to Tokyo One Sushi and Grill, located at the nexus of Midway and Belt Line in the fair city of Addison, state of TX.

ATMOSPHERE

When you are led by your smiling hostess past the charmingly smallish waiting area and into Action Central, you know right away that you are in for a treat. A veritable army of chefs is hard at work creating your Asian delights. Over here, sashimi is sliced with knifelike precision before being deposited correctly onto the buffet. Over there, a hibachi Iron Chef stands ready to assist the most discriminating of palates, while just a couple of feet away stands a tempura bin which is in a constant state of replenishment. In short, the place is busier than a beehive at honeytime, and you merely have to move from one station to the next to select all the essentials needed to compose your gastronomic symphony.

FOOD

In a word: freshness. Raw oysters slathered in cocktail sauce slid happily down my gullet, precisely as my dear father The Daddy taught me how to eat them at Broussards Restaurant a score of years ago. Hibachi steak, grilled precisely medium-rare as requested, fought furiously with zucchini and garlic and won the day handily. Spicy tuna, yellowtail, and red snapper sashimi thrilled me with their utterly perfect simplicity. My lovely bride raves to this day over her eel roll, seared Ahi tuna, and beef kabob, while her sister the Wild Thing waxes rhapsodic over the seemingly endless varieties of tofu (and trust Czar on this one, tofu is not commonly a thing to sing about; it is akin to attending the best luau on Maui and raving about the poi), not to mention the fact that Beaners the Nonstop Niece just adored the crab legs, carefully cracking them like so many eggs before dousing them liberally with butter and other goodies. In sum, we all made quite the meal and then some, and finished off our repasts quite nicely, thank you, with delightful scoops of Mango and Green Tea ice cream.

SERVICE

Our delightful waitress (I am truly sorry I cannot share her name, as I have temporarily mislaid the restaurant's receipt which carries that information, a tactic I often use instead of a notepad which I find tends to get in the way) was the very picture of charming efficiency on both occasions, deftly dealing with us and several other tables as well (this is often the case with waitstaff; trust me, it is not a task for the faint of heart) and properly checking with us to see if were indeed finished before briskly whisking each plate off to Dishwasherland. No website, please call 972 386-8899 with any questions. Oh, and one thing more, I distincly recall my significant other telling me that dinner rather than lunch is much the better time to enjoy Tokyo One, as the offerings are much more complete.

OVERALL

I have little more at this juncture to add, except for the fact that Tokyo One Sushi and Grill is indeed a true culinary outpost of the Land of the Rising Sun. Celebrate their reinvention of the buffet soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #14: Barton & Guestier Vouvray

Bond. James Bond. That is what I'm thinking about when I hear the term vouvray (you know, one of them Frenchifried terms for the varietal chenin blanc). Why, pray tell good Czar, do you think of James Bond whenever the term vouvray comes to mind, I hear you asking out there in Cyberland? Well, let me just take a moment out of my busy day to answer, fellow vineheads. The truth is that there is a reference in one of the Ian Fleming Bond short stories (yes, Fleming did write Bond, yes there were Bond books before the movies, and no, I cannot remember which one as that info has become shrouded in the mists of time, or some such rot), to the British Secret Service's most famous member of the Double Aught section employing cold vouvray in one of his many seductions. If you love this ultracool, always hip icon like I do, then surely you will think of Goldfinger's nemesis whenever you are drinking the Barton and Guestier Vouvray.

The robe of the B & G Vouvray is as pale gold as Tilly Masterton's skin. The nose displays subtle hints of oak and hyacinth, a very delicate scent. Pears and nectarines and maybe tangerines glide lightly over the tongue, resolving themselves like dew into a clean, bright finish. Like all summer picnic wines, chenin vouvray blanc is best enjoyed at the beach or in the park with ham and three-bean salad. Special thanks to the youngish steward of my local shoppe for tippling me off to this great vino, so much so that I bought it on the spot. Website is www.barton-guestier.com for those of us who are into that sort of thing. Please raise a toast (another English tradition, by the way), and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Sunday, January 20, 2008

Quickie Review #15: The County Line Barbecue

Gosh and golly (where do I get these Old School terms? Huh?), I just hate it whenever my lovely esposa the Rock Star and I are not on the same page in regards to a recent restaurant experience. If you are married, you too may understand my predicament. Not that we don't occasionally disagree, I mean, what married couple doesn't, but that I just don't enjoy it nearly as much as when we both can't wax rhapsodic at the same time. Translated: My bride of lo these many years was disappointed over such a recent experience at a place she had very much been looking forward to, disappointed simply because it did not send her into the shivers of sanguine pleasure she so enjoys. In her trips to different locations over the years, The County Line Barbecue has come to represent said saguinity to her, and to make a long story short, when she's disappointed, then I tend to be of similar disposition, even if my own experience was much better. It was with such high hopes that my bride, myself, and our mutual friend The Rock happily motored to one of the newer locations of The County Line BBQ, hard by the shores of scenic Lake Ray Hubbard.

The seat of this particular County Line is, in a word, stunning: An absolutely gorgeous setting on the Lake itself, complete with outdoor patio. County Line sure has the whole Texas Experience decor down pat, complete with lots of real, authentic wood and plenty of genuine memorabilia, including celebrity testimonials. The service was, for the most part, outstanding: Meagan and Catherine delivered a fantastic experience. (Sorry: In the midst of all this praise, I cannot in good conscience include the clueless person who delivered the wrong orders to our table, refused to apologize for his mistake, then topped it off by blaiming someone else. What cheek! I believe his lack of manners to have played a part in my wife's less-than-absolute enjoyment of the experience.) The food itself was certainly top-quality, wood smoked Texas Barbecue, which was all that it should have been, at least to me. I must continue to maintain that the County Line's Beef Ribs are some of the best anywhere: tender, meaty and thoroughly delicious. However, I was not quite as enamored of the Peppered Pork Tenderloin, which was merely adequate in my book. Similarly, The Rock was making his first visit and was suitably impressed, as he was quite pleased with his 'cued Chicken (thoroughly juicy, smoky, and altogether fabulous) and those fabulous ribs. (Each of us got Two-Meat Combo platters.) The Rock Star completely enjoyed her Sausage (genuine Hill Country meat and quite fantastic), but not her Peppered Turkey Breast. (Well prepared, but in her analysis not quite as good as it should have been.) Despite the service and culinary gaffes, the three of us had a blast, and I still believe the Garland location of The County Line to be a proud upholder of Central Texas Barbecue Tradition. Website is www.countyline.com and features maps tailored to each individial location. Start your own tradition soon, and never forget:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Saturday, January 19, 2008

Quickie Review #14: Stan's Lakeview Taphouse & Grill

Dagnabit, sometimes a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do. Even a married man. (Be Advised: Political Incorrectness Follows. Take appropriate measures.) I've made the astonishing discovery after a mere 15+ years or so or wedded bliss that Women Have Minds Of Their Own. To wit, my lovely bride the Rock Star has gently tried to persuade me to see the light at the end of her tunnel (Minds out of the guttter: NOW!) and visit Stan's Lakeview Taphouse and Grill located in The Colony, TX, hard by The Lake. (If you have never visited The Colony or The Lake, rest assured, I mean one and only one possible Lake. Either Google it or otherwise research it, or better still, visit this lovely but allegedly sleepy burg at your earliest convenience.) Stan's enjoys a following that happens to be fiercely protective, don't even think about dissin' it. (Is that correct? Sort of, maybe??) By the way, before I proceed, rest assured that whether I write a Food Czar or Quickie review is probably more likely to be inspired by either the quantity of stuff I have to say about said establishment, or, more likely, the time I have alloted myself rather than the quality of goodness contained therein. Rock Star and I finally decided to investigate this place one recent Saturday evening.

Stan's Lakeview and Taphouse sits next door to Angelina's (superb) Mexican Restaurant. Coincidentally, this place was investigated in the very first Quickie Review I composed; rest assured that I have nothing against restaurants lying within the city limits of aforementioned burg: Don't forget that Top Ten List and Top Ten Honorable Mention establishments Cafe Gecko and Zen Bar also are located within The Colony city limits. Restaurant has been described (by Donna Chen of Donna Cooks fame, no less) as "kid-friendly"; let me assure you, it is. Burgers, bar food, Bar-Mex (not really Tex-Mex, as I'm not sure fajitas, etc. originated in Tejas), and a few "more ambitious entrees", not to mention a seemingly endless supply of beers, especially on tap, predominate. Rock Star absolutely loved her burger, grilled as requested and featuring great fries, and my own, featuring officially award-winning chili, was at least as good. URL yes, website no as of this writing. (Menu is still as of this date listed as "Coming Soon" at stanslakeview.com; until then, please call 972 370-9994 with concerns). Service is excellent (our 20-something waiter told me, "Dude, you're a trip!"; I take that as a compliment!)
Please visit ASAP, and don't forget:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #21: THE MECCA RESTAURANT

Five times a day, every day, the faithful of Islam turn toward their Holy City of Mecca and pray. Now, The Mecca, the Dallas institution since 1938 and therefore eligible for founding status in the Dallas Better Breakfast Bureau (and lunch; don't forget lunch!) may not be quite so good as to inspire fervent prayer, but still I believe its devotees silently (or not) give thanks every day for continuing to fight the good fight to bring Dallasites quality, affordable eats as it has every day (except Sundays) for seventy years. It was in search of fond memories, not to mention the opportunity to update said memories, that my lovely wife the Rock Star and I motored down the Tollway, then westbound LBJ, then furthur south on the colorful boulevard that is Harry Hines until it finally crosses with Lombardy, one fairly early Saturday morn.

ATMOSPHERE

Guys: are you looking for a quintessentially Texas atmosphere to soak up while enjoying fabulous food? Look no further: Here it is! An ancient structure (at least by Dallas standards; Europeans would scoff at such an outlandish notion) that looks like it was a family home in an earlier incarnation, always busy downstairs dining room with lots of formica, several upstairs rooms up a winding staircase, every inch covered with memorabilia, signs featuring pithy sayings (PMS: Punish Men Severely. Now, did I ever say I reviewed only politically correct establishments? Well, did I???); in short, I think you know the kind of place I'm talking about. First Note of Caution: BE PREPARED FOR A WAIT AT PEAK TIMES!!! (We visited on Saturday, not a weekday, yet I feel fairly certain that during the noon hours it's pretty crowded; on Saturday, there were numerous hungry patrons waiting about 10:30 or so when we left.) Also, it must be noted that aisles are not generous and manuvering throughout Mecca can be a bit of an adventure. (Oh, by the way, that brings up a good point: Is this place correctly titled The Mecca or just plain Mecca? Perusing the menu brought no spiritual awakening as to this point: The joint is referred to as Mecca on the outside and The Mecca on the inside. Finally, I chose to go what it says on the somewhat elderly sign out front and have therefore rechristened it The Mecca.)

FOOD

What can I say except the unvarnished truth? The Mecca serves some of the best homecooked food available within the city limits of Dallas. The Rockstar enjoyed a classic-style breakfast: Two eggs (scrambled), bacon (slightly undercooked for her taste; as always she generously let me sample and it was wonderful), hash browns (she particularly enjoyed their crunchiness), biscuits (she enjoyed them so much that she devoured them without the wonderful cream gravy they came with); all washed down with darned good coffee (or so she informed me). For myself, I remembered (and once again desired) proof that God indeed loves Texas, as He invented one of our state staple cuisines: CFS, better known as chicken fried steak. Perfectly sized (bigger is not always better: Get your minds out of the gutter this instant!) and coated with supercrunchy batter, The Mecca's rendition of this classic is quite wonderous indeed. At her urging, I borrowed some of my wife's cream gravy and added it to the top of my dish like so much velvety parsley, and chowed down like a hound. Aforementioned CFS came with two eggs (scrambled, with side salsa), hash browns (yes, also crunchy, although not quite as much as the CFS) and those ambrosial biscuits. Needless to say, we were quite beside ourselves with fullness and bliss at brunch's end, and couldn't even think of adding one of their pies or other desserts into the mix.

SERVICE

Casey and Trent tagteamed the happy upstairs diners and ourselves quite nicely, and showered us with good, old-fashioned hospitality. It helped that just like a true Old School place, condiments (except the salsa) were located ON THE TABLE within easy reach. Second Note of Caution: Parking can be an issue, please plan accordingly. Third (and thankfully, Final) Note of Caution: All food in this historic establishment is prepared from scratch (I sincerly believe this to be the case, and of course, I forgot to ask. How remiss of me!) This means a lengthier wait than you may be accostomed to: Please reset your stomach clock accordingly as well. No website, so please call 214 352-0051, or better yet, JUST GO! And remember: Opening-up time is early (6AM), but The Mecca closes at 2:30PM (2PM Saturdays).

OVERALL

There is nothing more to be said for The Mecca, except......that there is nothing more to be said. Make your own pilgimage soon, and please remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Saturday, January 12, 2008

Cellar Selection #2: Becker Vineyards Texas Malbec

Almost from the beginning, Malbec has been used in the great Bordeaux vineyards of France, but primarily as a blending grape. Rarely did the French see fit to bottle a single-varietal wine out of this passion-filled grape. Well, that all started to change a few years back and half-a-world away: Malbec grew literally like wildfire in Argentina, and must now rank as that South American country's signature grape. The astute winemakers at the Hill Country's own Becker Vineyards seized the day (Carpe Diem) and planted some of their own, resulting in one of the very finest Texas wines I have tried to date, Becker Vineyards Texas Malbec.

The robe of this Texas Malbec is inky black velvet, the nose redolent of (believe it or not) leather with a touch of Old Spice. As for the taste, this wine lets you have it right in the palate with both barrels: Coffee, chocolate, cinnamon, plums, white pepper, nutmeg---I noted a distinctly different sensation with each taste. Since a truly great wine grows in complexity and taste sensation with each sip, I have made it the second Food Czar Cellar Selection. It is perfectly good to quaff on it's own, but paired, it will stand up to any steak or beef dish you care to match it with; just thinking about it's possibilities with rodizio barbecue gives me the shivers. The website is www.beckervineyards.com. Try it and also cellar a bottle: who knows how much better it will be in five years? Please do so soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Quickie Review #13: Abuelo's Mexican Food Embassy

Abuelo's was one of the pioneers of the upscale-corporate Mexican food concept a dozen or so years ago, and the Lubbock-based chain still has much to recommend it. My lovely wife the Rock Star accompanied me on a recent Friday evening adventure to the Plano outpost on the Tollway, only to be greeted by a promised forty minute wait and an overflowing entry waiting area. When we inquired about available space in the bar, our smartly professional greeters assured us that although it was full as well, constant turnover would mean that we could probably find an available table in less time than it would take in the restaurant proper. Therefore, we duly added our names to the list, received the now-ubiquitos flashing coasters, and proceeded straight to the busy bar. Upon arrival, Jessica, a bartender with obvious management potential, took charge of us almost at once, finding us an open space at bar's end and providing us with drinks and tasty chips and salsa to boot. Such quality service was the hallmark of our visit to Abuelo's and the reason I believe it still deserves consideration among the now crowded upscale-Mex field that now includes such proven stalwarts as Cantina Laredo, Luna de Noche and Mi Cocina.

I wish I could say the same for the food: while Abuelo's cuisine still retains an air of proven quality, after sampling the dishes I realized that I was paying as much for the atmosphere and service as for the entrees themselves. For myself I selected Mi Abuelos Manjar: three stacked enchiladas layered with underseasoned beef, cheese and chili con carne and topped with two eggs over easy. Good but not exceptional and at almost ten dollars, I realized that I could have gotten the same entree in a San Antonio taqueria for probably half the price and double the quality. The Rock Star's Soft Fajita tacos fared a bit better: Three wood-grilled chicken tacos rolled in soft flour tortillas and served with sour cream, guacamole, lettuce and tomato. The smoky chicken delivered a nice bite of spice and her side of Papas Con Chile was easily the highlight of the meal, a fetching blend of Mexican mashed potatoes, cheese and green chiles that made me wish that I had selected them for a side rather than the unexceptional rice and beans. The atmosphere, a faux-adobe blend of wooden beams and pleasant-peasant Mexican murals, still wears well, and Jennifer, our sharp server who took over from Jessica after we had finally found a table in the bar, continued the same high-quality service as before. The website is www.abuelos.com if you wish to find the nearest location in the fifteen-state chain. All in all, a very good experience, although I must say candidly that I would recommend any of the abovementioned chains before I would recommend Abuelos. However, the service and atmosphere still merit a visit, and don't forget:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Sunday, January 6, 2008

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #20: COACH JOE'S SPORTS GRILLE

Main street in Greater Downtown Frisco sure is a happining place these days. Exit off the Tollway onto Main, turn right, and the first thing you will see on the right is the impressive City Hall Complex, site of a delightful Christmas sound-and-lights display during the just-completed holidays of 2007. A block or so down, you will find Lochrann's Irish Pub, newly opened but already boasting a faithful clientel of regular revelers. A mile further East and you will see Randy's Steakhouse on the left, one of the finest steakhouses and best-kept secrets of the Northern Metroplex Environs. Finally, if you are really diligent and drive another mile or two down, you will come to the always-busy intersection with Preston Road. If you turn north at this point and go a block or two and look on your left, you will be rewarded for your diligence with the site of Coach Joe's Sports Grille, the newest silver star of the Frisco dining/sportsbar/karaoke scene. My lovely wife the Rock Star and I motored our way to this spot on a recent Saturday in hopeful search of all three previously-mentioned pleasures. (Or at least dining and sports; on Saturdays Coach Joe's offers live music instead of karaoke, and we were looking forward to this as well.)

ATMOSPHERE

Coach Joe's is named for legendary Dallas Cowboys and Desperadoes coach Joe Avezzano, and the place sure matches his expansive yet downhome personality to a Texas T. Large but not overwhelming dining space up front with the karaoke stage in the front corner. Delightfully busy bar along the front left wall. Behind these are a smallish game room with pool tables, a cozy viewing space with flat-panel TV's, and all the way to the rear, a massive outdoor patio with it's own centrally-located oval bar. In short, a very inviting collection of rooms, and the intrepid reveler could easily find a space somewhere to roost. The Rock Star and I checked in at the hostess stand, only to discover a 45-minute wait in the main room. We then headed for the crowded main bar, where we received our first delightful surprise of the evening: a very engaging silver-haired gentleman and his companion were just leaving, and graciously offered us his spots at the bar. Life often imitates fiction, and Blanche Du Bois famous line about the kindness of strangers was thus made incarnate. As with virtually all good restaurants these days, full dining is offered in the bar and we quickly sat down and were offered menus and drinks.

FOOD

Coach Joe's menu promises recipes from Mama Avezzano's kitchen, and many of the offerings, such as Baked Shrimp Wedges and Tequila Lime Chicken, sure sounded tempting; however as soon as we sat I noticed another diner polishing off an authentic-looking bowl of Texas chili, and my mouth started watering, so I ordered one for myself as well. The Cowboy Chili was indeed a deep purplish brown, and was loaded with ground beef, onions, spices, and authenticity, and was nicely sized so I could make my entire meal off it and take some home for later. The Rock Star and I had started our repast with very good Chips and Queso, the large bowl of chips matching well with the thick cheese sauce and chunky salsa. For her entree, the Rock Star stuck with the Pre-Game menu and selected Mini-Joes: Four excellent sliders served steaming on fresh rolls. When they arrived, my spouse discovered to her dismay that she had forgotten to add cheese. Not to worry, we still had some queso left, and the gooey dip made an excellent topping for the miniature burgers. She also added Joe's Scoop Fries and they were a standout: Thin, crispy potato wedges that proved chewy in the center and served with a very good blend of mustard and barbecue sauce for dipping. (I know it sounds like an unusual dipping sauce, but trust me, it works well with fries.) In due course, we boxed up our leftovers and turned our attention back to the flat-screen TV's and the games at hand.

SERVICE AND WEBSITE

As the NFL playoffs unfolded on the screens in front of us, we were attended by two bartenders. The first was good but not great, but the second gentleman more than made up for it, a backslapping-type comrade that treated my spouse and I like true regulars. Alas, when we were ready to leave, we discovered that the promised live music was still almost an hour away, so the Rock Star and I decided to leave that aspect of Coach Joe's for a later visit. Consult www.coachjoes.com for a schedule of bands and all the details.

OVERALL

Coach Joe the Man and Coach Joe the Coaching Legend is now Coach Joe the Restauranteur, and his place is well worth a visit. Motor thru charming downtown Frisco soon and discover for yourself, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Saturday, January 5, 2008

Wine Corner Review #13: Sterling Vineyards Napa County Sauvignon Blanc

My lovely wife the Rock Star and I are quite fortunate to share our rather modest loft with our lovely cat Sterling. Why the unusual name? Well, when she was young, she was a sterling silver tabby in appearance, and therefore we gave her that name. Later, as she grew and grew, we discovered our silvery kitty literally vanishing before our eyes and in her place stood a very lovely torby-colored cat. (Torby refers to a blend of tabby and calico; rest assured Sterling is quite beautiful.) Sadly, we lost our other cat, Hercules, recently to the ravages of age and time, but decided to celebrate instead the truly wonderful cat we are fortunate enough to still have in our presence. So, it is to honor Sterling that I present to you one of the prides of her namesake vintner, Sterling Vineyards Napa County Sauvignon Blanc.

The robe of the Sterling Sauvignon Blanc is straw-colored, touched with just a tinge of (yes) silver. The nose is rather subtle, but if you linger, you can detect citrus and melon. The distinct flavors of oranges and melon spread over the palate, with a pleasantly surprising finish: Trader Vic's Mai Tai. (Trader Vic's invented the mai tai, and their version is more bracing and less sweet than most). Of course, this blanc works well with chicken and very well with seafood, and perhaps best of all with such succulent sushi dishes as Spider Roll. All the details about the complete Sterling line can be found at www.sterlingvineyards.com. Please raise a glass soon to all our lovely cats, past and present: Angel, Hercules, Sasquatch, and Sterling (and of course, your own pets as well!) Please do so soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!