Monday, December 10, 2007

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #16: TUPINAMBA MEXICAN RESTAURANT

For more than sixty years, the Dominguez family has been serving Mexican Food Supreme in Dallas, although their single location has changed with the times: first on Fort Worth Avenue in Oak Cliff, later on Northwest Highway, still later on Midway near LBJ, and finally in 1996 moving to the old Crystal's Pizza location on Inwood just south of LBJ, right across from Jesuit High School. If you are in business for that long, you tend to perfect a formula for quality service and value in dining, not to mention the wonderful friendliness that is the owner's trademark. My lovely wife the Rock Star, her delightful mother the Momma, and yours truly journeyed there for lunch late one misty weekday morning.

ATMOSPHERE

Even after more than a decade in operation, Tupy, as the place is fondly known to it's legion of fans, retains an air of classy casualness. Large open dining space featuring a curved dividing wall. Large murals highlighted by blue lights. Separate bar area with a news and sports ticker to keep you abreast of our ever-changing world. We were greeted by Jeff, son of owner Eddie Dominguez (a basketball legend at Texas A&M a few years back), put our names on the list (they don't use beepers), and settled into the smallish foyer for a short wait. (As I have stated in other postings, it's usually not a good idea to expect to walk into a place EXACTLY at noon and be seated immediately. Other folks have to eat too, you know.) In short order, we were called and settled into our table by the large picture window near the front.

FOOD

Tupinamba serves excellent Tex-Mex for lunch, dinner and Sunday Brunch, and yet is rarely crowded at night. Perhaps proximity to Jesuit and so many offices make it a fine choice for the noon meal; more likely, diners can't resist the lunch specials. A dozen or so fine dishes or combo plates, all for $7.95 including iced tea. Since many places charge more than a dollar for the tea itself, this makes for superb value. The Momma loves her some spinach enchiladas (which are not part of the lunch specials) and she was rewarded with two corn tortillas stuffed with Popeye's favorite vegetable and covered with velvety sour cream and very good ranchera sauce. The Rock Star is a fajita fanatic, and her chicken fajitas were well marinated and served on an army of sizzling plates with tasty rice and good flour tortillas. Although Tupy (fried) tacos are some of the best in Dallas, I also love a good chile relleno and got the (ground) beef-stuffed poblano pepper covered with queso and served with slightly soupy but otherwise very good refried beans. We dined on these perfectly spiced delectables and the excellent salsa with just enough bite, and had a blast, a hoot, and a holler (a really good time). Truly a family-oriented place where patrons can feel really comfortable (just ask the lovely ladies laughing loudly at a nearby table). Dessert? Oh, no! To go boxes? Oh, yes!!

SERVICE

Service at Tupinamba is always some of the best and friendliest around, and many of the waitstaff are longtime employees, always a good sign. Also, the Dominguez college affiliation is readily apparent, with plenty of reminders of College Station's finest university, right down to the restroom doors marked Aggies (His) and Maggies (Hers). No website, as this is an old-fashioned family place, so call 972 991-8148 for all the details.

OVERALL

Quality Tex-Mex and great value, delivered by very friendly folks, are yours for the asking at Tupinamba, the place where Mexican food reigns supreme. Visit soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

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