FOOD CZAR ROAD TRIP 9, PART II: NAVAJO GRILL, FREDERICKSBURG, TX

One of Fredericksburg's endless list of charms is the fact that, for a small town, they certainly do have an impressive roster of big city amenities. These include an excellent live music scene, a wonderful, walkable downtown filled with people and action, and a burgeoning fine dining scene, with some establishments worthy of much larger places such as Dallas. In fact, we had need for just such an establishment, because we were celebrating yet another birthday (in our family, birthday season runs from August through December), and since we have long wanted to try the Navajo Grill, my lovely wife the Rock Star and I made the short trek from our bed and breakfast to the other end of Main Street one starry, starry night.

If you like a homey establishment, then it's virtually guaranteed that you will love Navajo Grill, which must have been a private residence in a prior incarnation. Three distinct dining rooms with wooden floors and wrought metal tables and chairs. Two separate patios, including a new covered one. An elegant, rambling structure where one room seems to lead naturally to the next. In short, the whole effect resembles nothing so much as Santa Fe in the Hill Country, if that makes any sense. We were seated immediately, and a very good waiter took charge of us almost at once.

These days, I often start my meals with soup, because I've learned that in fine dining establishments, most chefs take special pride in their potage. Accordingly, my bride and I began our repast with corn soup, a sinfully rich concoction of corn, pepper jack cheese, and tortilla chips. The quality of the soup told us immediately that our night of dining would be memorable. Indeed, such proved to be the case. My wife was in the mood for something fishy and the special that night happened to be trout, so she made her choice accordingly. To me, trout is one of the most underrated and frequently forgotten eating fish, and Navajo Grill's nutty yet buttery preparation showed that it deserves to regain popularity. The accompanying white cheddar grits and side greens pleased her as well, a simply elegant dish. My own choice was the filet mignon, perfectly prepared medium rare, stuffed with bleu cheese and served with excellent mashed potatoes and toothsome asparagus. I was also determined that we should enjoy Texas wine on this occasion and the Becker Claret matched very well with both our selections. All too soon, it was time to split a chocolate dessert souffle, and we took our satisfied leave.

In the previous sentence, I may have implied that service was rushed. Instead, the pace was Hill Country casual, which is typical of these parts, a welcome change from hectic Dallas. Website is http://www.navajogrill.com/, where you can learn about the history of this establishment and the charming family that runs it.

In sum, a most delightful experience, and I believe that Navajo Grill can hold its own with virtually any restaurant in Dallas. Visit soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!