Saturday, August 30, 2008

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #32: ISABELLA'S ITALIAN RESTAURANT

Finally, we get to enjoy Restaurant Week! Well, it's still officially called Restaurant Week, although so many places are extending the three-course-meal-for-$35 deal, I guess it should now be properly called Restaurant Month. In any case, the first part of the month, my lovely wife The Rock Star was on tour in North Carolina (where she wowed 'em, as always), then later on when she came home we both got sick and had to trade white linen for Styrofoam takeout. Well, last night after numerous made-and-canceled reservations through the Open Table system (http://www.opentable.com/; you should try it, they are very convenient), we finally were able to saddle up the ponies and head north to a place that has been reviewed by both Zagat and D Magazine, with D Magazine naming it a Best Neighborhood Restaurant earlier this year.

ATMOSPHERE

The website (http://www.isabellasfrisco.com/) reports that upon arrival, "guests get the sense that they are arriving at a private estate. " That is true, particularly when you consider that like many private estates, Isabella's Italian Restaurant can be a little tricky to find. (Hint: It's behind Silver Fox Steakhouse, immediately to the left of the fountain.) The front entrance may be a mystery as well; the sign in the parking lot does not point to the entrance, but to the back of the restaurant. A little daunting at first, but press on and you will find it. The interior is very clean and warm, with tangerine-colored curtains and original artwork on the walls. Good mix of customers. Very elegant and unstuffy. Neighborhood upscale. My kind of place. We were seated by the window with a view of the fountain and the efficient Nick soon presented us with menus and wine lists. (You know you are in an upscale establishment when you don't have to ask for the wine list.) We scanned the abbreviated Restaurant Week menu and made our selections rather quickly.

FOOD

Note to other RW-participating establishments: Please offer optional wine pairings with your repasts, as Isabella does. That way, food and wine can be enjoyed together, just as the chef intended. Isabella's is a wine-friendly establishment: Markup is very low, and they even feature a section entitled "25 @ $25," a very enticing price point indeed. My bride's meal began with the Insalata Mista di Campo, a house salad with a mixture of mesclun greens, Roma tomatoes, and balsamic vinaigrette. Very good, but I think she prefers her beloved raspberry walnut vinaigrette that she usually enjoys. She really enjoyed the well-balanced sauvignon blanc, proving that our decision to go with wine pairings instead of a single bottle was the correct one. My own salad was the arugula, tomatoes, and Gouda cheese with pancetta red wine vinaigrette. You must eat the Gouda for the salad to work together properly, as the buttery flavor of the cheese adds the proper note of spice to the mix, and the fruity Masi Masianco Pinot Grigio tied the whole thing together very well. I almost forgot that complementary focaccia bread is served with two kinds of olive oil, a regular extra-virgin, and one with an orange spice that tasted surprisingly of peppers and cilantro. Very nice, and we requested more. The kitchen was out of the sea bass, but my wife was really pleased with the Pecan-Crusted Mahi Mahi with risotto they brought instead. (She's from Texas, so she loves pecans. That's how it works, people.) The Hawaiian fish brought just a kiss of fishiness (not unpleasant) before melting into a clean finish. They served a chardonnay/sauvignon blanc blend with her entree; luckily, it was not overly oaky. (Over-oaked chards are the bane of our existence.) I raved about my Colorado Lamb Chops with mint and a smoky white bean polenta, accompanied perfectly by a Concannon syrah. In fact, it was one of the best dishes I've had all year, and I enjoyed it so much I was literally gnawing the meat from the chop like a rib bone, a behavior which brought a rebuke from the Rock Star. (She loves to rebuke my behavior; it's a wife thing.) We finished up with a good tiramasu with sparkling wine for her, and an absolutely delicious chocolate/caramel Budina al Caramello for me (basically an Italian creme brulee); the limoncello drink I selected to accompany was a bit too sweet for my taste. As usual, we had leftovers boxed up. (I cannot bring myself to let such lovely food go to waste. Besides, leftover lunches are the best.)

SERVICE & WEBSITE

Nick was efficient and quite charming, always ready with useful ideas when called upon. (It was he who suggested the Budina.) Website is http://www.isabellafriscos.com/, where we took note of their excellent pricing structure. (All prices are under the $31 mark for food, and only a half-a-dozen wines top the century mark.) Clearly, a place that wants repeat business. They'll get it.

OVERALL

Restaurant Week may have ended by the time you read this, but Isabella's Italian Restaurant is clearly a bargain for neighborhood upscale cuisine any time of year. Visit yourself soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Monday, August 25, 2008

Quickie Revisit #30: Tin Star

Illness can strike you down any time, any place, totally without warning. When it happened to my lovely wife the Rock Star over the weekend, the timing could not have been worse, as she had just started her vacation. Plus, it was Restaurant Week, and her infirmity coincided with our reservations for one of the Metroplex's finest high-end establishments. What to do? Luckily, Restaurant Week continues through next week, so we were able to cancel and reschedule at an equally-promising place for the following weekend. I was feeling slightly under-the-weather myself, so takeout food was in order, and with a little brainstorming and a phone call, I was soon happily motoring along to an old friend of a place featuring quality eats at a reasonable price.

I've said it before and I will say it again: I waited too long before trying Tin Star, the place of "salsa, smoke, and sizzle". I mean, I could not figure the place out: Is it Mexican, Texan, Texican, what? Well, the answer is all of the above, and Tin Star is as All-American as cheeseburger tacos and apple flan. Those tacos are stars of the menu, and my bride can rarely resist them. Prepared medium (isn't it wonderful to have a place that cooks ground beef anything other than well-done?) and served in fresh-grilled flour tortillas with cheddar cheese, mustard, mayo, lettuce, tomato, red onion and pickle relish, they were truly a dish to relish. The fabulous fries that come as a sidecar are crispy and skinny and perfect for dipping. Tin Star has joined the ranks of Chipotle, etc., and they now offer bowls. These are tortilla-less tacos, and I selected one with marvelously-marinated grilled steak, rice, black beans, blended cheese, shredded lettuce, pico de gallo, and sour cream. The steaks grilled flavor married very nicely with the smoky beans and was delightfully cooled by the sour cream, so I thoroughly enjoyed devouring it. Accompanying salsa was wonderful, only the chips were a bit stale. (I have been to Tin Star several times and can assure you stale chips are an exception, not the rule.) Website is www.tinstar.us, and they feature curbside takeaway. (It's great to be able to stay in your car, particularly when you're not feeling your best.) Find your own All-American meal at Tin Star soon, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Wine Corner Review #30: Messina Hof Sauvignon Blanc

Floral. Grassy. Herbaceous. If you were to read the tasting notes of your average Marlborough, New Zealand sauvignon blanc, you would find these words repeated over and over. All sauvignon blancs are dry; as a general rule, none more so than those from New Zealand. The flavors are more subtle, the dryness more predominant. Needless to say, such wines are usually meant to accompany food, particularly seafood, rather than being quaffed on their own. Today, we are considering a Texas blanc in the Marlborough style, specifically the Messina Hof Sauvignon Blanc.

The robe of the Messina Hof Sauvignon Blanc is precisely mixed: Three parts the color of Rose's Lime Juice to two parts the color of RealLemon. As previously indicated, the nose reveals definite, if subtle, floral and grass leanings. The taste is clean and woody at once, sort of like eating metallic honeysuckle, with a slight minty citrus finish. Seafood? Of course. The stronger the flavor of the fish, the better it matches. Website is http://www.messinahof.com/, which also advertises an unoaked chardonnay among the many offerings. (Note to self: Must try it.) Inhale a bottle soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Monday, August 18, 2008

Wine Corner Review #29: Louis Bernard Cotes-du-Rhone Villages Red

Louis Bernard is neither French winery nor vineyard, it is an alliance between over forty estates, all working feverishly to produce quality wine. Although there is evidence that the first vines planted in the Rhone valley of Southern France date back over 2500 years, it was not until the last half of the 20th century that this region truly came into its own as a top producer. Since this is quite a warm climate, Grenache is the red grape of choice here, usually blended with Mouvedre, Cinsault, and most memorably with Syrah to give the resulting tipple top accessibility, fruitiness and spice, as with the wine we are considering today, Louis Bernard Cotes-du-Rhone Villages Red.

The robe of the Louis Bernard Cotes-du-Rhone Villages Red is indeed regal red, overshadowed by royal purple. The nose contains cherries, different kinds of flowers, and alcohol. Strong overtones of minted spice are mixed in with berries and cherries, with a slight finish of pomegranite. Pork tenderloin is the pairing of choice here; the often delicate meat should be grilled or barbecued for best flavor and/or served with applesauce. Website for more info is www.boissetfamilyestates.com, and since the weather at this writing is turning rainy and cooler as fall approaches, it's time to once again consider reds in your vine diet. Pick up a bottle soon, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Quickie Review #29: Don Pepes Rancho Mexican Grill

The Momma is a formidable character, mother to my lovely wife The Rock Star, and all-around lovely person. When she summons us to dinner, we're usually quick to respond. Recently, she called to inform us that she had just purchased a brand-new 50-inch Sony HD TV, and would we like to come over and watch the Cowboys game on it? Well, we said yes quicker than Tony Romo can throw a touchdown pass, and since we were in need of sustenance prior to the Big Event, we headed down the road a piece (as Amos Milburn, Chuck Berry, and the Rolling Stones, among others, would have it) to Don Pepe's Rancho Mexican Grill.

Don Pepes boasts multiple dining rooms, similar to Mattitos in Frisco, and like that august venue, features unusual wall decorations, such as distressed Mexican crockery and genuine Mexican sodas. If you like your salsa thick, your chips fresh, and your queso tasting very much like Rotel cheese dip, then you will feel right at home. The Momma is a spinach enchilada fiend and raved about hers, while my bride's wonderful combo plate featured double rice (she hates refried beans---it's a texture thing, she says), a crispy beef taco, and a very good chicken enchilada with sour cream and an old-school soft cheese taco. Myself, I've been a fan of Tacos Al Carbon since I first tried them at Ninfa's (the acknowledged Mecca of the dish) and was very pleased with both the beef and the chicken versions. No Mexican beers on this occasion, we stuck with ice tea (In Texas, "ice tea" is one word.) and boxed up plenty of leftovers. No website, so call 972 458-7729 with any questions or concerns. Remember to always do what your Momma tells you, and also remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Sunday, August 10, 2008

Wine Corner Review #28: Shelton Vineyards Yadkin Valley Sauvignon Blanc

Quick, name the top-producing wine states in the USA. You would be correct if you said California, New York, Texas, Oregon, and Washington state. But did you know that North Carolina was at one time the number one wine producing state in the country (until a little thing happened called Prohibition), and that is currently enjoying a resurgence in growth that recently placed it back into the Top Ten? Well, I didn't either, until my lovely wife the Rock Star brought some back from a recent visit there. As regular readers (both of you) of this blog know, she is a stone fiend for sauvignon blanc, so needless to say she brought some bottles back of her favorite tipple, including the Shelton Vineyards Yadkin Valley (the Napa of NC) Sauvignon Blanc.

The robe of the Shelton Vineyards Yadkin Valley Sauvignon Blanc is a mix of two metals known since Revolutionary times: silver and pewter. The nose, as is often the case with blancs, is quite subtle, with notes of grapefruit, melon, tobacco, and peanut butter. Be patient with the taste as you sip and you will be rewarded with pear, apricot, melon, grapefruit, and finally a strong finish of peach. This blanc is heaven-sent for oysters and indeed all seafood, and of course, chicken salad with walnuts or pecans if you're a landlubber. Website is www.sheltonvineyards.com, and yes, they do allow shipping to Texas if you cannot find it at your local grocery or wine shoppe. Start your own wine revolution soon, and:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Saturday, August 9, 2008

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #31: TACO DINER

If you think you have a handle on what Mexican food is all about, you've got another think coming. Tex-Mex is, of course, one of the National Cuisines of Texas, and its "Love on the plate and lard in the skillet" philosophy, is slowly changing (not for the better, some say) to accomodate lighter tastes. Ari-Cal Mex, a staple in the desert Southwest, incorporates fresh green chilis into the mix, and is still hearty, but with a touch more finesse. Corporate Mex (upscale) and Bar Mex (downscale) were pulled from the other Mexes by the restaurant and tavern industries, respectively---mostly the basics done with upscale ingredients in the former, while the latter is mostly variations of nachos, fajitas, and quesadillas, just right for appetizers when you've got the drinkin' munchies. Finally, we have the cuisines of Mexico, which would need entire volumes to cover them all--from the fishes of Veracruz to the endless varieties of street tacos in Mexico City. Taco Diner is mostly concerned with the latter, and since I hold all great cuisine dear, I decided to spend one recent Saturday lunch exploring the Plano outpost of this five-store chain, with my lovely wife the Rock Star and her appetite in tow.

ATMOSPHERE

Mexico post-New-Millenium Industrial Revolution. Classic movie posters. Open kitchen. Smallish space. Wall niches with vases. Very Now, not Last Week. My bride and I were seated immediately (all the service from tostadas to check, was muy rapido yet felt leisurely) where Juan took charge of us.

FOOD

I think it's one of those famous Laws of Old Texas: complimentary chips and salsa must be brought to the table of any Mexican restaurant immediately upon the seating of guests, no ifs, ands, or buts. I am happy to report that Taco Diner is in full compliance: chips were fresh, lite, and crispy and not one but two salsas were brought. The red was full-bodied with just a touch of sweetness; the green with a bite of lingering spice. I preferred the green but did not love either one. Thankfully, I ordered a cup of queso; you should do the same, as the perfect, plentiful cup held lots of good flavor with an almost Rotel finish. After intense perusement of the menu, my wife decided on the chicken tacos al pastor. Chicken breast marinated in anchote citrus marinade and served in soft corn tortillas with sides of lime, (which must be utilized to bring out the subtle spice of the meat), these tacos were light and refreshing, yet strangely filling despite their smallish size. Since they come four to an order, I decided on two bistec and two la parilla, grilled beef and pork, respectively, both marinated in olive oil, garlic and salt (add pepper for the pork). These simple preparations made for some very nice pork tacos but really worked wonders for the beef, so much so that the Rock Star was continually poaching off my plate, giving them the ultimate compliment when she declared, "I should have ordered that!" Since we had decimated the cup of queso, and as noted before, the tacos were quite filling, there was no room at the inn for dessert.

SERVICE & WEBSITE

Juan proved to be more than capable, always available without hovering, even thoughtfully pointing out the restroom when it was needed. (Be forwarned: It's a singleton, with one of those red/green occupied signs just like in the airplanes.) Taco Diner is part of the MCrowd group of restaurants; just enter the URL http://www.mcrowd.com/ to get in with the MCrowd (as Dobie Gray would have it.)

OVERALL

Expand your Hispanic food horizons with Taco Diners delicious take on the United Mexican States capitol city's cuisine. Please do so soon, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Monday, August 4, 2008

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #30: KELLY'S EASTSIDE

Major thoroughfares can be such a psychological barrier for us. You know, the classic attitude of "I won't go there if it's south of LBJ or east of Central" mindset. Well, I'm finding out that if I think that way, I'm missing out on some truly wonderful experiences. You know, I would say that I've discovered the ultimate neighborhood hangout in Kelly's Eastside, but that's like saying that Christopher Columbus discovered America. Kelly's has been well known to representatives of most of the major media outlets for years (including Texas Monthly, no less), so my "discovery" won't come as any true discovery; merely self-revelation that I've been denying myself the gastronomic-and-good-times experiences of one of the most charming places of the Northern Metroplex Environs for too long. My lovely wife the Rock Star was away on business of her own, so my good friend The Rock and myself dutifully paid the tolls to rumble eastward one hot Sunday in search of adventure.

ATMOSPHERE

Cozy. Intimate. Lots of brick. A plaster horse out front covered in pithy sayings. Smallish patio which also contains the door to the inside. The place is smaller than it looks from pictures; to me, this was a good thing as it added to the warmth and intimacy. We were invited to take any table and we took one (no, we brought it back) within sight of the ubiquitous TV's. Soon enough, Anthony introduced himself and we began our leisurely repast.

FOOD

Often I start a meal with chips and salsa. Not so today. From the photos of Donna Chen's review (Donna Cooks), I knew exactly what I wanted. Being a True Texan, I love chicken-fried steak, and I especially enjoy it when covered with enchiladas, chili, or queso. Kelly's steak was available covered with cheese, so I dropped the two extra dollars, and decided to go for it. A rather large slab of cube steak, with crispy, crusty breading and a nicely-spiced queso, it was one of the better chicken-fried steaks I've had in ages, maybe even better than Babe's. At Anthony's suggestion, I accompanied my meat with queso mashed potatoes and pinto beans and they made the perfect sidemen to my culinary concert. Being a Texan by way of Tennessee, the Rock loves pulled-pork sandwiches and made short work of his (Memphis-style if you please, with the accompanying coleslaw placed on top of the sandwich). When Anthony asked later how he liked it, The Rock replied, "It's gone!" So much for that. At the last second, we decided to garnish our meals with glasses of the Daily Special unoaked chardonnay (I meant to write down the name and didn't), and it provided a nice bite of light sweetness.

SERVICE AND WEBSITE

As indicated above, Anthony was fabulous, ready with suggestions, and especially patient with me when I informed him I had not even considered which sides I wanted with my steak. Website is www.kellyseastside.com, and be sure to check it out for Happy Hour info and specials.

OVERALL

The ultimate neighborhood hangout in Plano's delightfully revitilized downtown, Kelly's Eastside delivers the bill of fare and then some. Hang there yourself soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Saturday, August 2, 2008

Wine Corner Review #27: Llano Estacado Pinot Grigio

Yesterday, I got bit by the cooking bug. Now, when the cooking bug bites, you know there's nothing for you to do but head straight to the kitchen (in my case, usually by way of the store to pick up supplies). Listen, I'm not talking about fixing a meal; anyone can use a microwave and put together something on a plate. No, I mean COOKING!! Specifically, I was reading Donna Chen's excellent blog (Donna Cooks) and got inspired by her recipe (by way of Martha Stewart) for Wild Rice Salad with Lime Dressing. With just a little chopping and sauteing (is that a word?) of ingredients, I soon had one heck of a salad to enjoy for my dinner. And when you're in a salad mode, usually the best accompaniment is a very good white wine, in this case Texas own Llano Estacado (Vintner's Select) Pinot Grigio.

The robe of the Llano Estacado Pinot Grigio is wheaten amber. Putting your nose up close to the glass gives you the distinct whiff of flowers, specifically orange blossom and lavender. Blood orange and berry in the taste, with just a touch of peach on the finish. Of course, this wine works well with any greenery but really shines with Southwestern salads like the Wild Rice with Lime Dressing, as the fruitiness of the flavor really cuts the fire of the green chilies. Website is http://www.llanowine.com/, and most of this winery's product is quite affordable and even the premium bottles are reasonable. Bite the bug back soon, and

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!