Go Texan Restaurant Round-Up Sept 28 - Oct 2nd

Rarely do I blog about upcoming events. I feel the best way for me to serve the restaurant and dining community is to dine at places and review them after the fact, plus discuss interesting wines and other products. However, I'm breaking my rule just this once to mention the Go Texan Restaurant Round-Up, scheduled from September 28th through October 2nd, 2009. During this week, participating restaurants around the state will offer fixed-price meals featuring locally produced Texas foods paired with Texas wines (and hopefully beers and liquors as well). Similar to our beloved Restaurant Week, but this time with a Texas twist. The founders of Go Texan hope to raise awareness of Texas products and perhaps a little cash for charity to boot. Last year, more than 200 restaurants around the state participated in some form or fashion. This years list of North Texas participants includes such heavy hitters as Fearings, Pappas Brothers Steakhouse, III Forks, and Blue Mesa Grill.

I support this project for the same reason I support Restaurant Week. As a native Texan and longtime Lone Star resident, I believe in growing the Texas economy. If more people can dine at great restaurants at affordable prices, plus learn about the wealth of Texas growers and winemakers that continually pop out of the woodwork, it becomes a win-win situation for all. Hopefully, we can get a full slate of North Texas participants to keep our economy flowing like wine, proving that Texans are always true pioneers who keep inventing new ways to succeed.
Here's the website for all the info:

http://www.gotexan.org/restaurantroundup/


GO TEXAN!!!

Quickie Review #41: 15th Street Eatery

Assembly lines are great vehicles for building cars efficiently, not so much for dining. Oh sure, if you see dinner as something to be endured rather than enjoyed, by all means go to the local branch of your "neighborhood" whatever and pretend you're having a good time. And yes, these days many chains are rather good, which was not necessarily true in days of yore. My lovely wife The Rock Star and I just dote on true neighborhood joints, so when we got the word on a new place called 15th Street Eatery opening up near our casa, we decided to investigate. True, the place has only been open a short time, but so what? I believe that a blogger serves the function of a modern town crier and that one of his principal duties is to get the word out, however that may be. Hopefully, if the experience is good and the post is positive, others will flock to check out the newby as well, before financial and culinary realities combine to put the kibosh on the owners dreams. So it was that we set out to find 15th Street Eatery one recent Sunday for lunch.

In a word, 15th Street Eatery is tiny. Tiny with a capital T. There are exactly seven tables in the storefront interior, plus another half-a-dozen stools at the counter next to where kitchen magician Sharon McGrath performs her cookery. Enticing smells of baking solicit your nose as soon as you enter, for she is a pastry chef as well as chef du cuisine. White wood-panel walls with dried and fresh flowers and coffee paintings for decorations. Cruise on up to the counter to order. If you're a first-timer, it's best to get one of the smallish menus and have a seat while perusing your choices, the better to let more experienced customers order quickly and efficiently. In fact, have a complimentary cup of coffee while you browse. In any case, place your order and prepare to wait. Remember, true goodness takes time and Chef Sharon does everything herself, except for two youngish assistants who take orders and expedite them to the table once they are prepared. Also, she gives out free samples. My bride adores eating breakfast at all hours, so she selected the Heavenly Hots. A short stack of nonuniform, made-from-scratch hotcakes sided with crisp, applewood-smoked bacon and home-fried potatoes and excellent eggs added up to one outstanding (and, for her, overly large) breakfast. That's OK, if you weren't born during the Depression, you know that it's not a crime to leave food on your plate. For myself, I had been craving a BLT, and the aptly-named BBLT (Best Bacon, Lettuce, and Tomato) more than filled the bill, the crunchy toast, iceburg lettuce, and tomato marrying perfectly with the bacon and Hellmans mayo. (I know it was Hellmans because I saw her dress the sandwich myself; have i mentioned how tiny this place is?) My lunch was accompanied by a cup of earthy mushroom soup and a simple spring mix salad featuring grape tomatoes and "secret recipe" house dressing featuring cilantro and lime vinagrette. We dined heartily yet leisurely, our repast accompanied by glasses of excellent, fresh brewed ice tea. (Be sure and order lemon and extra ice; as it is fresh brewed hot and will melt the ice quickly.) Soon enough, we were quite stuffed, but couldn't resist ordering a piece of the luscious-looking yellow cake with chocolate frosting for future consumption at home. I will be sure to update this post to let you know how good it was, provided I don't have a brain freeze and forget. Website is http://www.15thstreeteatery.com/, but is a work in progress at this point, without menu or hours. Not to worry, the joint is open from 6:30 am to 8:30 pm during the week and from 7 am to 3 pm on weekends. Discover the delights of non-assembly-line dining at 15th Street Eatery yourself, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!


UPDATE: My wife and I enjoyed our dessert in the cool of the evening. The yellow cake was so moist it was positively dripping and the frosting was fudgetastic. We also solved the age-old problem of how to divide our slice. My cake-loving wife got the larger piece with less icing, while the smaller piece with more icing went to myself, the certified frosting lover. Everyone was satisfied, and we vowed to get another pastry selection soon.

Quickie Review #40: El Fogon

June is busting out all over, even if the calendar says July. By that, I mean that Latin restaurants are appearing everywhere, especially in the North Dallas/Addison/Carrollton area near mi casa. I have to call them Latin restaurants because they aren't all Tex-Mex, nor Mex-Mex. Surely, these qualify as Latin too, but I'm specifically referring to establishments featuring cuisines from farther south of the border, namely Central and South America. Many of you are no doubt aware of Gloria's, the pride of Salvatex (Mexico plus El Salvador) cuisine, but rest assured, there are plenty of others as well. Since I've been searching lately for new taste sensations (whether or not they have been sweeping the nation), and despite the fact that my lovely wife the Rock Star was temporarily unavailable to assist me in my quest, I decided to explore El Fogon Restaurant one recently Sabbath for lunch.

According to legend, El Fogon started life as one of the only Ecuadoran restaurants in Big D, but since they have added numerous Peruvian and Tex-Mex dishes, their food now can be best described as Latin. I received a very warm welcome from the family/staff, with no fewer than half-a-dozen people attending to my needs. They started to grill me on what types of dishes I usually liked, but I already had my answer. Outside temperature was 110 in the shade, and I knew that one of the best light lunches on such a day would be ceviche. El Fogon boasts several types, but when I discovered the Ceviche Ecuatoriana, I knew I had a winner. Tomato puree was combined with bell peppers, red onion, cilantro, fish (tilapia, I think), and shrimp into a pastoral delight that was cool as the proverbial cucumber and much more satisfying. Served with fresh lime and remarkably good plantain chips, it was infinitely pleasing, and made me eager to try the many other dishes on the menu. Don't worry, there are plenty of familiar menu items for the uncurious, such as quesadillas, nachos, and taquitoes. These came in handy, too, as the owner's family was dining at the next table and the ninos wanted burritos. Service? Ask yourself this: In how many high-end places will the owner interrupt his own family's repast to refill your tea glass? Not many, I'll warrant. Website for this smallish place can be found at www.elfogondallas.com, where you will find out that Saturdays are Ladies Nights. I'm sure this information will come in handy someday. Discover El Fogon soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #53: Chalone Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir

I'll wager that few vineyards here in the US can boast of a location at the foot of an extinct volcano. Yet, that is the exact address of one of the prides of Napa, Chalone Vineyards, perched precariously in the Gavlan Mountain Range 1800 feet above the Salinas Valley. More important, they are also one of the few wineries growing their grapes in limestone-based soils. You see, kiddies, limestone is also an important component of the terroirs of Burgundy, where most of the world's best chardonnays and pinot noirs call home. Today, we will be concerned with the latter varietal, as we sample a glass or three of one of the stars of Chalone's fine wine line, namely the Chalone Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir.

The robe of the Chalone Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir is garnet skillfully blended with royal robe purple. The nose suggest definite strawberries, spice, and that old pinot standby, cherries. Lots of said cherries and berries work the palate into a frenzy, with a peppercorn finish. Good pinots are among our most versitle reds; we enjoyed ours with steak and were quite pleased. Prime rib and ahi tuna would be even better matches I suspect. Website is www.chalonevineyard.com, where you can check out their entire line of Burgundian beauties, to say nothing of other varietals. Discover how limestone can improve your pinot soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Tales From The Bar Side #4: Firefly Modern Asian Grill & Sushi

I've always said that the best lunch in the world is free, and if you can't get it free, then the second best lunch is cheap. That applies to dinner as well. My lovely wife the Rock Star and I are always on the lookout for good, cheap eats, and we do love our Happy Hour. So, whilst idling by the pool one recent Sunday, an ad in the Observer caught my eye which promised both good Happy Hour prices and cheap dining in the bar. I looked at my spouse and we both said, Hey, what have we got to lose but an hour or two and a few bucks? Plus, we might just can score a really neat new hangout. So, with little to lose, and potentially a lot to gain, we decided to roll down Midway to Firefly Modern Asian Grill & Sushi in Addison that very evening.

If you've ever spent time in Addison, you know that the space occupied by Firefly has had several previous restaurant tenants including Randy White's BBQ, Good Eats, and a Texan-themed place whose name escapes me. Decor is actually a bit heavy-handed, almost gloomy in places, but the couches in the bar are comfy and the staff is warm and welcoming, frequently taking time from their prep work to come chat with us. We decided on a whim to start with saki bombs, two drinks combined with a bar game that's quite adventurous. Our sweet redheaded waitress showed us the ropes. Basically, you balance a shot of saki on two chopsticks over a short beer and chant, "Saki, saki, saki," while simultaneously banging on the table. Presto! The chopsticks roll away, depositing the saki shot into the beer glass, not to mention spilling some on the table as well. Great fun, the most enjoyment I've had at this sort of thing since I last played Quarters. Since Happy Hour drink and food prices were so reasonable, and since Happy Hour at Firefly lasts from 4PM to close, we decided to indulge ourselves. We started with Spicy Edamame, the wok-steamed soybeans that are a staple in every sushi joint. Quite tasty, if a bit heavy on the hot Asian spices. After that, we were planning to move straight into sushi, but our staff kept raving over the fried calamari, so we finally obliged. Served with scallions, jalapenos, and sweet chili sauce, it was one of the highlights of our meal, better than versions I've had in some high-dollar establishments. (Some places emphasize the squid too much for my taste; this version was more nicely balanced.)

Appetizers only, we moved on to sushi, selecting a California Roll (my wife makes it a personal rule to have either a California Roll or a Philadelphia Roll virtually every time she enjoys sushi), a Spicy Tuna Roll, and a Cajun Crawfish Roll, all Happy Hour Sushi specials. The California Roll was quite good but pretty basic; the real joy came in devouring the Spicy Tuna Roll, which tasted quite fresh, and the Cajun Crawfish Roll, replete with delicious fried crawfish and spicy mayo. Very satisfying, and our dinner check, with all that food, the saki bombs, two beers, and two mixed drinks, came to just over $30, about half the usual price. Needless to say, we left a sizeable tip. As I mentioned above, the staff was quite personable and down-to-earth, making for a truly enjoyable bar experience. Website is www.fireflyaddison.com, where you will note dinner options that are quite a bit more substantial than our modest Happy Hour fare. Score a cheap meal yourself at Firefly Modern Asian Grill & Sushi soon, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #52: MIGNON RESTAURANT

Sometimes I believe that restaurants are capable of human speech, and that their vocabularies can be quite extensive. Yet in my experience, I've found most say one of two things to us once we've been properly introduced. The first type of establishment, be it fine dining or hole-in-the-wall, is quite Texan in their approach, saying "Howdy! Come on in!!" The second type tends to be much louder and practically screams, "You Don't Belong Here! Please Vacate Our Premises At Once." Whether it's the decor, the hostess, or just the general vibe, you instantly get the impression that you are not one of their preferred customers and you'd be better off dining somewhere else. Does this sound familiar? I'm sure many of you particularly feel that way about French fine dining establishments, what with their (to our ears) peculiar mode of speech and pronunciations, and general all-around Frenchness. Some of you would immediately feel put off, as if you have entered the second type of restaurant noted above. Well, pardner, let me assure you such is not always the case. Many French restauranteurs can be downright warm and effusive once you get to know them, and food can be actually quite unpretentious and enjoyable. My lovely wife the Rock Star and I actually confirmed these findings recently at Mignon, a thorougly French, totally unpretentious establishment located in the wilds of West Plano.

Atmospherically, Mignon is very bistro-like, a concept I wish more places would embrace, invoking the spirit of 1960's Paris. This means, of course, lots of casual French posters and artwork. Square tables sporting green chairs and semi-formal glass-and-silverware. Curvy booths. Separate patio set with metal chairs overlooking a small fountain. In other words, as informal as all-get-out, like a friendly French place should be. We were seated at once and began to peruse menu and wine list.

Foodwise, our repast was outstanding, once we got past our initial disappointment concerning the wine list. My lovely wife and myself love French wine, but sadly, Mignon stocks mostly California vintages and the French vintages they do stock are on the expensive side. So, after some consideration, we decided on Caldwell Flame Jumper by the glass, which proved to pair quite well with our cuisine and had a bit more spice then most French-style syrahs. I have to admit that when in Paris (so to speak), I usually bypass other Francophilic dishes and head straight for the steak. Let's face it, I'm a true Texan, and I definitely appreciate how the French prepare their beef, generally choosing only prime or top of the choice, and showing particular reverence toward sauces. Such was the case at Mignon. Their steaks are prime, and my wife really enjoyed her New York strip, presented precisely medium-rare (she's my kind of gal!) with Yukon potatoes and grilled asparagus, topped with a blue cheese and sherry reduction. Delightfully old-school stuff, as was my Prime Filet Au Poivre (a retro peppery presentation that was big back in the day), topped with peppercorn brandy sauce and sided with forest mushroom, spinach, and red wine risotto. I requested mine rare, and they delivered as promised. (I've learn to order rare in fine dining establishments for best flavor; if I'm in a second-tier place, I stick to medium rare.) The steak was fantastic, the risotto lovely, although I would have preferred potatoes. Even though we took plenty of leftovers home, we somehow found room for chocolate ganache cake, with raspberry coulis and creme anglais. After eating this delectable goodie, I now know why ganache is all the rage.

Service was unstuffy, unpretentious, and thoroughly helpful, not to mention unobtrusive unless you needed them. Website is www.mignonplano.com. Once again, I found a delightul French establishment and we'll definitely be back. Please listen to your restaurant soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #51: CAFE ISTANBUL

Mediterranean diets are all the rage. And why not? Fish. Olive oil. Garlic. Healthy, healthy, healthy. These civilizations have lasted for thousands of years and their people are happy and their cultures vibrant. They must know something we don't. I would love to say that my lovely wife the Rock Star and I were determined to seek out Turkish food this lovely Sunday morn, but truth is, we were looking for a nice brunch place at The Shops at Legacy before our afternoon matinee at the Angelika, and were on our way to another place nearby. Alas, the place we were seeking was on the sunny side of the bullring, so to speak, and we had determined to sit on the patio, when suddenly blue banners caught our eye, and noticing that Cafe Istanbul was closer to the Bellagio-like fountain than our intended destination, we made the decision to dine there at once. (Well, almost at once. Restaurant owners, learn this lesson, please: Much potential business is to be gained by posting your menu with prices outside your establishment, for if customers see what they like and the price is right, they may choose to dine with you there and then. And so it was with us.)

I would like to report on the interior decor of Cafe Istanbul, but alas the fountain was in full bloom when we were there and we did not want to miss a single performance. (It erupted every 10-15 minutes.) Pictures from the Dallas location are on the website http://www.cafe-istanbul.net/, and they show metal folding chairs on the patio there. Luckily, such is not the case in Plano, and sitting on the patio was quite lovely indeed. I was concerned that perhaps alcohol would not be available, but our request for a wine list was met with a ready response. It seems that Turkey has a strong secular tradition. In this case, I'm glad.

On their website, Cafe Istanbul posts a quote from a book called The Historical Evolution of Turkish Cuisine, in which author Navin Hallci states that Turkish food is "one of the three foremost examples of culinary art in the world." (For the record, French and Chinese are the other two.) Quite a bold statement indeed. Yet, after sampling chef Erol Girgin's wares, I think that Hallci may be on to something. We began our repast with Kisir (Tabuleh), cracked wheat lightly flavored with tomato paste, parsley, and onions. Very nice, although I would have preferred more paste and spice. So many appetizing goodies were featured on the menu that my bride had trouble making up her mind, finally deciding on a chef's special featuring ground beef and lamb served with rice pilaf and yogurt. Spices in this dish were seemingly restrained at first, then suddenly popped up and surprised her, which prompted her to quell the fires with yogurt and her glass of New Zealand Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc. (Yogurt is served in these countries precisely for its quenching abilities. Not to mention flavor.) The same late-blooming zing was forthcoming in my entree, the Terbiyeli Sis Kebap, a charbroiled delight of lamb marinated in hot sauce and spice that would make any pepper-loving Texan proud. My personal conflagration was doused with Efes Pilsen, a good Turkish brew in the style of Dos Equis. After such an eventful meal, we decided to split a simple dessert. Kayisi Tatlisi proved to be dried apricots filled with light cream and served with walnuts, and was a nice, light ending to a wonderful meal.

Service was leisurely paced in the best brunch tradition, but was not at all inattentive. Our waiter even managed a hearty laugh when I amended my usual saying of "When in Rome, do as the Romans do," and changed the city in question to Constantinople. I did not want another great schism on my hands.

In sum, I'm not sure I'm ready to declare that Turkish is one of the world's three greatest cuisines, but after such a meal, I feel more research is in the offing. Again, website is http://www.cafe-istanbul.net/. Discover Cafe Istanbul for brunch yourself soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT OF MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!