Contrary to what many people believe, ice wines did not originate in Canada, although our northern neighbor crafts some very nice ones. The phenomenon dates back to the Romans, but Germany is said to have crafted the first modern ice wine in the late 18th century. Production really took off in Germany in the sixties and in Canada in the eightes leading to the iced vino craze of the past decade or so. Today, some twenty or so countries produce the frosty fetish, and the one we are taking under consideration today hails from the mother country of Germany herself, the Wilhelm Bergmann Eiswein.
The robe of the Wilhelm Bergmann Eiswein is minty straw and hay. The nose can be quite off-putting, reeking a bit too much of nail polish, old rags, and Gewurztraminer-like turpentine. The patient tippler, however, will be rewarded with meade and honey on the palate, finishing nicely with mown grass. Like all fortified wines, Bergmann Eiswein is best enjoyed after dinner, probably with a nice plate of nuts and/or cheese. Good luck finding a website; after sifting through three or four Googled pages, I gave up. Still, I know some stores in this area carry it, as I received my bottle as part of a belated Christmas present. Discover your own icy treat today, and as always:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
Saturday, January 16, 2010
Saturday, January 9, 2010
FOOD CZAR REVIEW #60: LAWRYS THE PRIME RIB
Lawrence L Frank and Walter Van de Camp opened the original Lawry's The Prime Rib on La Cienega Boulevard in Beverly Hills in 1938. You might know Franks legacy better as the creator of Lawry's Seasoned Salt (and Pepper), cococted specially for the restaurant and an adornment of virtually every pantry in America since. Frank also designed the famous silver carts, which are brought tableside so the chef can personally cut the rib roast to suit the diner's exacting taste. Lawry's now sports ten locations worldwide, four in the States and six overseas. The Dallas location is actually now in Addison, having moved from Turtle Creek in the late nineties. My lovely wife the Rock Star has always loved prime rib since her Steak and Ale days (as a diner, not an employee). I've always had a penchant for prime myself, so it was one recent night that we decided to investigate Lawry's for ourselves.
The atmosphere at Lawry's is decidedly old-school, so much so that you will likely see as much silver atop the diner's heads as you will see it on the famous carts. Nonetheless, the dining room features white tablecloths, tall-back wooden chairs, and is guarded by lions, a combination that still connotes elegance. In fact, the decor is described as English Edwardian, but since Edward was not present to confirm this rumor, we must instead take it on faith.
Old school was in session with the menu as well, so we decided to make the most of it. My bride had seen the special program on the Travel Channel featuring Lawry's as one of Chicago's famed meat palaces, so she wanted to start with the famous spinning bowl salad. The presentation was indeed impressive, as our waitress spun the bowl, then raised the dressing bottle above her head to coat the greens from on high. Featuring crisp romaine, baby spinach, beets, chopped egg, croutons and iceberg, and topped with the dressing that reminded me of Green Goddess spiked with sherry, the salad was quite good if not as spectacular as the presentation. I fared much better with my shrimp cocktail: Five jumbo tiger prawns with a horseradish cocktail sauce that packed plenty of punch, reminding me of the days when a great steakhouse was the ultimate dining experience. The shrimp, salad, and all our dishes paired quite nicely with Greg Norman Shiraz, which added cabernet boldness and a touch of spice. In due course, the silver carts arrived. My wife and I have smaller appetites these days, however I wanted to try a bone-in cut, which is usually designated for the larger portions such as the Diamond Jim Brady. Luckily, our waitress assured us that they do have some smaller bone-in cuts, and that if one was available, we could certainly have it. My wife selected the California Cut, which was specified for lighter appetites. I assume they mean a portion designed more for a quarterback than a defensive lineman, because her slab was still quite large. I selected the traditional Lawry's Cut, and received a generous-sized portion with a bone. One bite told us instantly why Lawry's has managed to survive and thrive for over seventy years, because this was without question the most beefy tasting slab of prime I've ever tasted. The whipped cream horseradish added just the right touch of creamy burn to the meat, and the mashed potatoes were very good as well. Lawry's also serves Yorkshire pudding with every prime rib entree, which is not a dessert but rather a scorched batter meant to be served with drippings or gravy. The generous portions reminded me that Lawry's still hosts the Beef Bowl dinner to honor the two combatants in the Cotton Bowl every year, and in fact the Dallas cut is their largest cut, "as served to the Cotton Bowl teams." Ours was quite sufficient, thank you. After such a meal, how could we find room for dessert? However, we could not pass up a hot fudge sundae, made with Blue Bell ice cream and CC Brown's Hot Fudge Sauce, also sold by the restaurant if you wish to take home. After such a meal, we had no choice but to box up what was ours and leave.
Service was very accomodating and professional, as evidenced by Lawry's wish to honor my rib bone request. Website is http://www.lawrysonline.com/, if you wish to make reservations or order products.
In sum, we felt we graduated magna cum laude from Lawry's The Prime Rib, and we now understand its considerable reputation. Attend your own culinary old-school yourself, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
The atmosphere at Lawry's is decidedly old-school, so much so that you will likely see as much silver atop the diner's heads as you will see it on the famous carts. Nonetheless, the dining room features white tablecloths, tall-back wooden chairs, and is guarded by lions, a combination that still connotes elegance. In fact, the decor is described as English Edwardian, but since Edward was not present to confirm this rumor, we must instead take it on faith.
Old school was in session with the menu as well, so we decided to make the most of it. My bride had seen the special program on the Travel Channel featuring Lawry's as one of Chicago's famed meat palaces, so she wanted to start with the famous spinning bowl salad. The presentation was indeed impressive, as our waitress spun the bowl, then raised the dressing bottle above her head to coat the greens from on high. Featuring crisp romaine, baby spinach, beets, chopped egg, croutons and iceberg, and topped with the dressing that reminded me of Green Goddess spiked with sherry, the salad was quite good if not as spectacular as the presentation. I fared much better with my shrimp cocktail: Five jumbo tiger prawns with a horseradish cocktail sauce that packed plenty of punch, reminding me of the days when a great steakhouse was the ultimate dining experience. The shrimp, salad, and all our dishes paired quite nicely with Greg Norman Shiraz, which added cabernet boldness and a touch of spice. In due course, the silver carts arrived. My wife and I have smaller appetites these days, however I wanted to try a bone-in cut, which is usually designated for the larger portions such as the Diamond Jim Brady. Luckily, our waitress assured us that they do have some smaller bone-in cuts, and that if one was available, we could certainly have it. My wife selected the California Cut, which was specified for lighter appetites. I assume they mean a portion designed more for a quarterback than a defensive lineman, because her slab was still quite large. I selected the traditional Lawry's Cut, and received a generous-sized portion with a bone. One bite told us instantly why Lawry's has managed to survive and thrive for over seventy years, because this was without question the most beefy tasting slab of prime I've ever tasted. The whipped cream horseradish added just the right touch of creamy burn to the meat, and the mashed potatoes were very good as well. Lawry's also serves Yorkshire pudding with every prime rib entree, which is not a dessert but rather a scorched batter meant to be served with drippings or gravy. The generous portions reminded me that Lawry's still hosts the Beef Bowl dinner to honor the two combatants in the Cotton Bowl every year, and in fact the Dallas cut is their largest cut, "as served to the Cotton Bowl teams." Ours was quite sufficient, thank you. After such a meal, how could we find room for dessert? However, we could not pass up a hot fudge sundae, made with Blue Bell ice cream and CC Brown's Hot Fudge Sauce, also sold by the restaurant if you wish to take home. After such a meal, we had no choice but to box up what was ours and leave.
Service was very accomodating and professional, as evidenced by Lawry's wish to honor my rib bone request. Website is http://www.lawrysonline.com/, if you wish to make reservations or order products.
In sum, we felt we graduated magna cum laude from Lawry's The Prime Rib, and we now understand its considerable reputation. Attend your own culinary old-school yourself, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
Saturday, January 2, 2010
FOOD CZAR TOP TEN RESTAURANTS OF 2009
I have to admit that I've been very lucky this year in many ways. My nonblogging writing activities have picked up steam considerably, plus I've gone to many top-notch restaurants in quest of the transcendent experience that is food at its best. Fortunately, I've not sought the Holy Grail alone, my lovely wife and partner-in-crime The Rock Star has accompanied me on all these journeys. When I consider this past year, the quality of truly superb restaurants has been staggering, and I look forward to many such endeavors in the New Year. So, again without furthur ado, here are the Food Czar Top Ten Restaurants of 2009.
MON AMI GABI, LAS VEGAS, NEVADA (Jan):
At Mon Ami Gabi, the steaks are quite thin, but the sauces are quite rich. The Steak Roquefort and the Steak Bearnaise are classic examples of French saucery, and I wish more Dallas restaurants served wafer-thin frites like Gabis. The late-nite dining hours are a bonus as well.
AL BIERNAT'S (Feb)
Our Valentine's repast continued our recent brunch tradition. If destinations are too crowded and expensive at night, how about a nice, relaxing brunch? My wife's giant Lobster and Scrambled Egg Burrito was absolutely stuffed with fresh seafood and crispy bacon, while my Sliced Filet with Crab and Asparagus boasted a swarthy bite of smoked tomato hollandaise. The tender medium-rare beef reflected the endless hours Al spent toiling away at The Palm before opening his own place.
MIGNON (June)
More fabulous French beef, with classic Prime Filet au Poivre prepared perfectly rare, and New York strip medium-rare with blue cheese and sherry reduction. After the main course, we were very wise indeed to save room for chocolate ganache cake.
CAFE ISTANBUL (June)
Turkish cuisine makes good use of the grill, and Terbiyeli Sis Kebap sported charbroiled lamb marinated in hot sauce and spice, guaranteed to appeal to peppery Texas palates. Kayisi Tatlisi, dried apricots filled with cream and served with walnuts, proved that light desserts can be very satisfying after a hearty meal.
CRAFT (June)
"Let the flavors speak for themselves," is an oft-heard, much-misunderstood cliche in the restaurant business. Chefs Tom Colicchio and Anthony Zappola truly understand this concept, with a brunchtime feast of medium-rare Craft Burger with white cheddar and applewood-smoked bacon and exquisite New York Strip Steak and Eggs. The wine list is very well chosen, and we spent as much time talking about the establishment's unique architecture as we did devouring our food.
STEVEN PYLES (Aug)
Steven Pyles is the once and future master of Southwestern cuisine, so why not enjoy a repast that showcased said mastery? Scallop and pork belly carnitas and red snapper in Thai red curry masa proved the evolving, adaptable nature of this cuisine to modern palates. Artisan breads such as blue cheese scone and potato foccacia are highlights, while desserts nearly stole the show with Mexican chocolate fondant and Deep Ellum goat's cheesecake. Himself was also onhand to meet and greet while making sure the food held up to his exacting standards.
PAPPAS BROS STEAKHOUSE (Aug)
Pappas Bros is often touted as the best steakhouse in Dallas. When former Dallas Morning News food writer Bill Addison was given a farewell party by his adoring colleagues, where do you think they dined? Perhaps they enjoyed the sensuous lobster bisque, the swarthy, char-broiled flatiron steak with triple peppercorn sauce or the dry-aged, prime New York strip that was both beefy and buttery in nature. Possibly they ended their feast with the tart lemon sorbet or the decadent chocolate peanut butter cake with chocolate ganache. If so, they truly dined as well as we on this hot August night.
FEARINGS (Sept)
My lovely wife and I were invited to this Ritzy hotspot as a part of the Go Texan celebration. For our efforts, we were rewarded with course after course of sheer bliss. Poblano shooters. "Million Dollar" Chicken Tortilla Soup. Barbecued Shrimp Taco. Peach BBQ Glazed Bobwhite Quail. Dublin Dr Pepper Braised Beef Short Ribs. English cut NilGai Antelope. Cheese courses. Matching wines and port. Finally, Fearings excellent coffee. One of the best meals we've had in 2009. Period.
COAST GLOBAL SEAFOOD (Sept)
Coast's Daily Excursion is a three-course delight offered during weekdays, and ours featured splendid Roasted Halibut and Julia Child favorite Atlantic Lemon Sole Meuniere. Desserts were a highlight, and the stunning view of the Bellagio-style fountain is always a special treat at night.
NAVAJO GRILL, FREDERICKSBURG, TEXAS (Dec)
The restored private house is a charmingly rambling setting for rustic fine dining, and the nutty, buttery trout and perfectly prepared filet made for a memorable celebration indeed. Corn soup was a sinfully rich concoction, made thoroughly Texan with pepper jack cheese and tortilla strips.
2009 Honorable Mention Worthy of Mention:
-Yolo's Mexican Grill, Las Vegas, Nevada (Jan)
Thus, I must stick a fork in 2009 and call it done. Possibly my finest year of dining bliss ever. Hopefully, 2010 will be equally well disposed. Discover your own dining bliss soon, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
MON AMI GABI, LAS VEGAS, NEVADA (Jan):
At Mon Ami Gabi, the steaks are quite thin, but the sauces are quite rich. The Steak Roquefort and the Steak Bearnaise are classic examples of French saucery, and I wish more Dallas restaurants served wafer-thin frites like Gabis. The late-nite dining hours are a bonus as well.
AL BIERNAT'S (Feb)
Our Valentine's repast continued our recent brunch tradition. If destinations are too crowded and expensive at night, how about a nice, relaxing brunch? My wife's giant Lobster and Scrambled Egg Burrito was absolutely stuffed with fresh seafood and crispy bacon, while my Sliced Filet with Crab and Asparagus boasted a swarthy bite of smoked tomato hollandaise. The tender medium-rare beef reflected the endless hours Al spent toiling away at The Palm before opening his own place.
MIGNON (June)
More fabulous French beef, with classic Prime Filet au Poivre prepared perfectly rare, and New York strip medium-rare with blue cheese and sherry reduction. After the main course, we were very wise indeed to save room for chocolate ganache cake.
CAFE ISTANBUL (June)
Turkish cuisine makes good use of the grill, and Terbiyeli Sis Kebap sported charbroiled lamb marinated in hot sauce and spice, guaranteed to appeal to peppery Texas palates. Kayisi Tatlisi, dried apricots filled with cream and served with walnuts, proved that light desserts can be very satisfying after a hearty meal.
CRAFT (June)
"Let the flavors speak for themselves," is an oft-heard, much-misunderstood cliche in the restaurant business. Chefs Tom Colicchio and Anthony Zappola truly understand this concept, with a brunchtime feast of medium-rare Craft Burger with white cheddar and applewood-smoked bacon and exquisite New York Strip Steak and Eggs. The wine list is very well chosen, and we spent as much time talking about the establishment's unique architecture as we did devouring our food.
STEVEN PYLES (Aug)
Steven Pyles is the once and future master of Southwestern cuisine, so why not enjoy a repast that showcased said mastery? Scallop and pork belly carnitas and red snapper in Thai red curry masa proved the evolving, adaptable nature of this cuisine to modern palates. Artisan breads such as blue cheese scone and potato foccacia are highlights, while desserts nearly stole the show with Mexican chocolate fondant and Deep Ellum goat's cheesecake. Himself was also onhand to meet and greet while making sure the food held up to his exacting standards.
PAPPAS BROS STEAKHOUSE (Aug)
Pappas Bros is often touted as the best steakhouse in Dallas. When former Dallas Morning News food writer Bill Addison was given a farewell party by his adoring colleagues, where do you think they dined? Perhaps they enjoyed the sensuous lobster bisque, the swarthy, char-broiled flatiron steak with triple peppercorn sauce or the dry-aged, prime New York strip that was both beefy and buttery in nature. Possibly they ended their feast with the tart lemon sorbet or the decadent chocolate peanut butter cake with chocolate ganache. If so, they truly dined as well as we on this hot August night.
FEARINGS (Sept)
My lovely wife and I were invited to this Ritzy hotspot as a part of the Go Texan celebration. For our efforts, we were rewarded with course after course of sheer bliss. Poblano shooters. "Million Dollar" Chicken Tortilla Soup. Barbecued Shrimp Taco. Peach BBQ Glazed Bobwhite Quail. Dublin Dr Pepper Braised Beef Short Ribs. English cut NilGai Antelope. Cheese courses. Matching wines and port. Finally, Fearings excellent coffee. One of the best meals we've had in 2009. Period.
COAST GLOBAL SEAFOOD (Sept)
Coast's Daily Excursion is a three-course delight offered during weekdays, and ours featured splendid Roasted Halibut and Julia Child favorite Atlantic Lemon Sole Meuniere. Desserts were a highlight, and the stunning view of the Bellagio-style fountain is always a special treat at night.
NAVAJO GRILL, FREDERICKSBURG, TEXAS (Dec)
The restored private house is a charmingly rambling setting for rustic fine dining, and the nutty, buttery trout and perfectly prepared filet made for a memorable celebration indeed. Corn soup was a sinfully rich concoction, made thoroughly Texan with pepper jack cheese and tortilla strips.
2009 Honorable Mention Worthy of Mention:
-Yolo's Mexican Grill, Las Vegas, Nevada (Jan)
Thus, I must stick a fork in 2009 and call it done. Possibly my finest year of dining bliss ever. Hopefully, 2010 will be equally well disposed. Discover your own dining bliss soon, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
Saturday, December 26, 2009
FOOD CZAR TOP TEN NEIGHBORHOOD GEMS OF 2009
Question: If you're dining out on a Friday or Saturday, where do you go if you're suddenly flush with cash? A Destination Restaurant? Perhaps. Breaking bread at these palaces certainly can make for some memorable evenings, plus they are good for stretching our palates. But what about Sunday through Thursday nights, or anytime your pockets are not bulging with bread? Where do you eat if you want to go out? Well, many of us turn to our favorite places close to home, the joints where the waitresses call you Honey (especially if they are old-school Texas establishments), or at least the waiter will recognize you and maybe even have your noshing habits memorized. During the past year, my lovely wife the Rock Star and I have been privileged to dine at many such places, sometimes by invitation, most often on our own dime. If we've had stellar experiences, then it is unimportant who pays. I'm going to write about it. If not, I won't. It's as simple as that. So, without furthur ado, here are the Food Czar Top Ten Neighborhood Gems (and honorable mentions) of 2009:
ZORBA'S GREEK CAFE (Jan)
Classic Greek dishes delivered in a lovely gem of a location, served by perpetually happy people. Plus Zorba's is BYOB. What's not to love?
RED'S PATIO GRILL (Mar)
From the Cowboy Meatloaf to the Montana Legend beef burgers to the Double Cheese Potato Cakes, Red's defines comfort food for 2009. As a bonus, they serve some of the best margaritas in town, not to mention tequila flights.
FINO'S ITALIAN BISTRO (Apr)
Every neighborhood should have at least one New Jersey or New York-style Italian joint, don't you think? Finos ups the ante with fast free delivery, and they are BYOB as well.
SCREEN DOOR RESTAURANT (May)
Speaking of upscale, Screen Door is all about Southern comfort food with class. The free-range chicken and lamb shank were marvelous, but the grits and black-eyed peas stole the show. Plus, the milk and cookies dessert is a wonderful twist on an old standby.
MATT'S RANCHO MARTINEZ (May)
Although he recently passed away, the spirit of Matt lives on in the Bob Armstrong Dip, famous chiles rellenos, and excellent Chicken Fried Steak Tampequeno Style served at his lovely Lakewood establishment.
FIN SUSHI & SAKE BAR (Sep)
The sushi is fresh and most beautifully plated, the space is gorgeous, and the staff is marvellously welcoming and attentive. Don't forget to try the sake boxes.
CAFE AMORE (Oct)
Another American Italian gem. My sister-in-law the Wild Thing has lived all over this great nation, and chooses BYOB Cafe Amore as her location for special celebrations.
EL RANCHITO (Oct)
Many places in Dallas tout top-notch Tex-Mex, but El Ranchito delivers, with savory caldo de res and substantial milanesa. This gem is one of the shining stars of the venerable Oak Cliff Mexican scene that deserves more support if it is to thrive and survive.
ALAMO SPRINGS CAFE (Nov)
Ten miles south of Fredericksburg and smack in the middle of nowhere, this tiny cafe offers one of the best cheeseburgers ever devised by the hand of Man. Don't believe me? Texas Monthly voted it the third-best cheeseburger in the entire state in their August 2009 issue.
MAGUIRES (Nov)
French bistros were some of the original neighborhood gems, and Maguire's chef was classically trained in La Belle France. As in all great French establishments, the beef at Maguires is treated with loving care, and at a price far less than many of the nearby steakhouses.
2009 Honorable Mentions Worthy of Mention:
-El Fogon (July)
-McSwiggans Irish Pub (Nov)
One final note: This list only covers establishments I've written about on this blog in 2009.
Needless to say, I'll be compiling a list of Top Ten Restaurants for 2009 very soon. Support your own neighborhood gems soon, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
ZORBA'S GREEK CAFE (Jan)
Classic Greek dishes delivered in a lovely gem of a location, served by perpetually happy people. Plus Zorba's is BYOB. What's not to love?
RED'S PATIO GRILL (Mar)
From the Cowboy Meatloaf to the Montana Legend beef burgers to the Double Cheese Potato Cakes, Red's defines comfort food for 2009. As a bonus, they serve some of the best margaritas in town, not to mention tequila flights.
FINO'S ITALIAN BISTRO (Apr)
Every neighborhood should have at least one New Jersey or New York-style Italian joint, don't you think? Finos ups the ante with fast free delivery, and they are BYOB as well.
SCREEN DOOR RESTAURANT (May)
Speaking of upscale, Screen Door is all about Southern comfort food with class. The free-range chicken and lamb shank were marvelous, but the grits and black-eyed peas stole the show. Plus, the milk and cookies dessert is a wonderful twist on an old standby.
MATT'S RANCHO MARTINEZ (May)
Although he recently passed away, the spirit of Matt lives on in the Bob Armstrong Dip, famous chiles rellenos, and excellent Chicken Fried Steak Tampequeno Style served at his lovely Lakewood establishment.
FIN SUSHI & SAKE BAR (Sep)
The sushi is fresh and most beautifully plated, the space is gorgeous, and the staff is marvellously welcoming and attentive. Don't forget to try the sake boxes.
CAFE AMORE (Oct)
Another American Italian gem. My sister-in-law the Wild Thing has lived all over this great nation, and chooses BYOB Cafe Amore as her location for special celebrations.
EL RANCHITO (Oct)
Many places in Dallas tout top-notch Tex-Mex, but El Ranchito delivers, with savory caldo de res and substantial milanesa. This gem is one of the shining stars of the venerable Oak Cliff Mexican scene that deserves more support if it is to thrive and survive.
ALAMO SPRINGS CAFE (Nov)
Ten miles south of Fredericksburg and smack in the middle of nowhere, this tiny cafe offers one of the best cheeseburgers ever devised by the hand of Man. Don't believe me? Texas Monthly voted it the third-best cheeseburger in the entire state in their August 2009 issue.
MAGUIRES (Nov)
French bistros were some of the original neighborhood gems, and Maguire's chef was classically trained in La Belle France. As in all great French establishments, the beef at Maguires is treated with loving care, and at a price far less than many of the nearby steakhouses.
2009 Honorable Mentions Worthy of Mention:
-El Fogon (July)
-McSwiggans Irish Pub (Nov)
One final note: This list only covers establishments I've written about on this blog in 2009.
Needless to say, I'll be compiling a list of Top Ten Restaurants for 2009 very soon. Support your own neighborhood gems soon, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
Saturday, December 19, 2009
FOOD CZAR TOP TEN WINES OF 2009
Although it may seem premature to start my year-end reflection series, nonetheless I've decided to forge ahead. Looking back, it seems that every year I get to review wines that were better and better than the previous year's crop. My lovely wife and myself still spend most of our days tippling the cheaper quaffs, due to budget considerations, but I'm continually seeking better vinos, pushing the envelope more and more each year. So many wines, so little time. With all this folderol in mind, and without furthur whining, here are my Top Ten Wines of 2009:
PIPER-HEIDSICK BRUT CHAMPAGNE (Jan)
We rang in the New Year with this classic bubbly. One sip and you'll understand why it's been chosen to toast the calendar change year after year.
INWOOD ESTATES TEMPRANILLO-CABERNET (Feb)
For years, the rest of Texas has produced most of the award-winning Lone Star tipples. Now, it's time for the Metroplex to stand up and be counted.
VEUVE CLIQUOT PONSARDIN BRUT CHAMPAGNE (Mar)
Another time-tested sparkler from the first great winery to be run by a woman. If you get a chance, you should read her life story, which proves that determination can and should triumph over unwarranted convention.
MASI PINOT GRIGIO VERDUZZO MASIANCO (Apr)
If you're used to French or California bottles, the world of Italian wine can seem downright bewildering. This food-friendly delight is a great gateway into that world.
CROSS TIMBERS CABERNET SAUVIGNON (May)
While Dallas is just really getting its act together, Grapevine has been quietly producing quality bottles for years. (Yes, Virginia, Grapevine is located in the Cross Timbers region of Texas, while Dallas is in the Blackland Prairie and Fort Worth is in the Grand Prairie. Confused? It's true.)
14 HANDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON (May)
I seem to find many of my memorable wines from restaurant lists these days, which is no surprised since Wine and Spirits Magazine named this cab the fourteenth most popular wine by the glass.
CHALONE VINEYARD ESTATE PINOT NOIR (July)
One usually associates great pinots with the cool Pacific Northwest, rather than California. However, Chalone Vineyards is perched precariously in the Galvan Mountain Range, 1800 feet above the Salinas Valley. Moreover, it's located at the foot of an extinct volcano, which must do wonders for the terroir.
DRY CREEK VINEYARD DRY CHENIN BLANC (Aug)
I'm a product of San Antone and so is Central Market, brainchild of the HEB company that has been selling groceries to Texans since before most of us could walk. Needless to say, I sampled this dry pleaser at a Central Market tasting.
ELSA BIANCHI MALBEC (Sep)
A malbec that goes well with seafood? Really?? Yet, we paired this product with crab dip, shrimp bisque, and Julia Child's beloved sole meuniere, and this spirited red was more than equal to the task at hand.
FUQUA PINOT NOIR (Dec)
The boisterous and magnanamous Lee Foster Fuqua is producing the tipples that have all haute Dallas abuzz from his winery near Love Field.
Honorable Mentions:
-Rutini Trumpeter Mendoza Malbec-Syrah
-Oops Sauvignon Blanc
Again, I know it's early for such a compilation, but I promise that if I encounter any more memorable wines before year's end, I will keep invesitigating them and report any favorable results after the New Year. Start your own investigations soon, and as always:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
PIPER-HEIDSICK BRUT CHAMPAGNE (Jan)
We rang in the New Year with this classic bubbly. One sip and you'll understand why it's been chosen to toast the calendar change year after year.
INWOOD ESTATES TEMPRANILLO-CABERNET (Feb)
For years, the rest of Texas has produced most of the award-winning Lone Star tipples. Now, it's time for the Metroplex to stand up and be counted.
VEUVE CLIQUOT PONSARDIN BRUT CHAMPAGNE (Mar)
Another time-tested sparkler from the first great winery to be run by a woman. If you get a chance, you should read her life story, which proves that determination can and should triumph over unwarranted convention.
MASI PINOT GRIGIO VERDUZZO MASIANCO (Apr)
If you're used to French or California bottles, the world of Italian wine can seem downright bewildering. This food-friendly delight is a great gateway into that world.
CROSS TIMBERS CABERNET SAUVIGNON (May)
While Dallas is just really getting its act together, Grapevine has been quietly producing quality bottles for years. (Yes, Virginia, Grapevine is located in the Cross Timbers region of Texas, while Dallas is in the Blackland Prairie and Fort Worth is in the Grand Prairie. Confused? It's true.)
14 HANDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON (May)
I seem to find many of my memorable wines from restaurant lists these days, which is no surprised since Wine and Spirits Magazine named this cab the fourteenth most popular wine by the glass.
CHALONE VINEYARD ESTATE PINOT NOIR (July)
One usually associates great pinots with the cool Pacific Northwest, rather than California. However, Chalone Vineyards is perched precariously in the Galvan Mountain Range, 1800 feet above the Salinas Valley. Moreover, it's located at the foot of an extinct volcano, which must do wonders for the terroir.
DRY CREEK VINEYARD DRY CHENIN BLANC (Aug)
I'm a product of San Antone and so is Central Market, brainchild of the HEB company that has been selling groceries to Texans since before most of us could walk. Needless to say, I sampled this dry pleaser at a Central Market tasting.
ELSA BIANCHI MALBEC (Sep)
A malbec that goes well with seafood? Really?? Yet, we paired this product with crab dip, shrimp bisque, and Julia Child's beloved sole meuniere, and this spirited red was more than equal to the task at hand.
FUQUA PINOT NOIR (Dec)
The boisterous and magnanamous Lee Foster Fuqua is producing the tipples that have all haute Dallas abuzz from his winery near Love Field.
Honorable Mentions:
-Rutini Trumpeter Mendoza Malbec-Syrah
-Oops Sauvignon Blanc
Again, I know it's early for such a compilation, but I promise that if I encounter any more memorable wines before year's end, I will keep invesitigating them and report any favorable results after the New Year. Start your own investigations soon, and as always:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
Friday, December 11, 2009
Cellar Selection #7: Fuqua Pinot Noir
Over the years, I've come to realize that many of our most talented and gifted people may be our most down-to-earth. Such is the case with Lee Foster Fuqua. A large, jovial man whose booming voice belies his broadcasting past, Lee Fuqua is currently crafting the wines that has all haute Dallas abuzz, yet he guides you around his Atwell road winery as if you are the only person that matters. Many of his best vinos are sold out at this time, but cellar-quality selections are still available, some at prices that you can afford even if the dove of prosperity has not smiled on you at present. Thankfully, one of his most food-friendly wines is still available for the thrifty shopper, and it just so happens that it's the quaff we are considering in todays post. For the record, I'm talking about the Fuqua Pinot Noir.
The robe of the Fuqua Pinot Noir is a rich, jewel-like magenta garnet. The nose is subtle and complex with spices such as cardamon and white pepper at the forefront. Luscious maraschino and Bing cherries and currants wash playfully over the palate, finishing crisply with light citrus. This wine is simply a joy to pair, and worked beautifully with both our New Jersey Italian entrees. This pinot had enough subtle spice to go with my orecchietta pasta with zucchini, broccoli, and sausage, yet also stood up well with my wife's simple dish of chicken parmigiana. Lee calls it his "cross-dresser" wine, and since his shop is located just a stone's throw from Oak Lawn, such a designation is quite appropriate. Website is http://www.fuquawines.com/, and if you come on by for a free tasting, he might just let you taste some of his over-the-top wildcat chardonnay, which if he bottles it will leave all other chards in shards. Discover your own haute wine soon, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
The robe of the Fuqua Pinot Noir is a rich, jewel-like magenta garnet. The nose is subtle and complex with spices such as cardamon and white pepper at the forefront. Luscious maraschino and Bing cherries and currants wash playfully over the palate, finishing crisply with light citrus. This wine is simply a joy to pair, and worked beautifully with both our New Jersey Italian entrees. This pinot had enough subtle spice to go with my orecchietta pasta with zucchini, broccoli, and sausage, yet also stood up well with my wife's simple dish of chicken parmigiana. Lee calls it his "cross-dresser" wine, and since his shop is located just a stone's throw from Oak Lawn, such a designation is quite appropriate. Website is http://www.fuquawines.com/, and if you come on by for a free tasting, he might just let you taste some of his over-the-top wildcat chardonnay, which if he bottles it will leave all other chards in shards. Discover your own haute wine soon, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
Saturday, December 5, 2009
FOOD CZAR ROAD TRIP 9, PART II: NAVAJO GRILL, FREDERICKSBURG, TX
One of Fredericksburg's endless list of charms is the fact that, for a small town, they certainly do have an impressive roster of big city amenities. These include an excellent live music scene, a wonderful, walkable downtown filled with people and action, and a burgeoning fine dining scene, with some establishments worthy of much larger places such as Dallas. In fact, we had need for just such an establishment, because we were celebrating yet another birthday (in our family, birthday season runs from August through December), and since we have long wanted to try the Navajo Grill, my lovely wife the Rock Star and I made the short trek from our bed and breakfast to the other end of Main Street one starry, starry night.
If you like a homey establishment, then it's virtually guaranteed that you will love Navajo Grill, which must have been a private residence in a prior incarnation. Three distinct dining rooms with wooden floors and wrought metal tables and chairs. Two separate patios, including a new covered one. An elegant, rambling structure where one room seems to lead naturally to the next. In short, the whole effect resembles nothing so much as Santa Fe in the Hill Country, if that makes any sense. We were seated immediately, and a very good waiter took charge of us almost at once.
These days, I often start my meals with soup, because I've learned that in fine dining establishments, most chefs take special pride in their potage. Accordingly, my bride and I began our repast with corn soup, a sinfully rich concoction of corn, pepper jack cheese, and tortilla chips. The quality of the soup told us immediately that our night of dining would be memorable. Indeed, such proved to be the case. My wife was in the mood for something fishy and the special that night happened to be trout, so she made her choice accordingly. To me, trout is one of the most underrated and frequently forgotten eating fish, and Navajo Grill's nutty yet buttery preparation showed that it deserves to regain popularity. The accompanying white cheddar grits and side greens pleased her as well, a simply elegant dish. My own choice was the filet mignon, perfectly prepared medium rare, stuffed with bleu cheese and served with excellent mashed potatoes and toothsome asparagus. I was also determined that we should enjoy Texas wine on this occasion and the Becker Claret matched very well with both our selections. All too soon, it was time to split a chocolate dessert souffle, and we took our satisfied leave.
In the previous sentence, I may have implied that service was rushed. Instead, the pace was Hill Country casual, which is typical of these parts, a welcome change from hectic Dallas. Website is http://www.navajogrill.com/, where you can learn about the history of this establishment and the charming family that runs it.
In sum, a most delightful experience, and I believe that Navajo Grill can hold its own with virtually any restaurant in Dallas. Visit soon, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
If you like a homey establishment, then it's virtually guaranteed that you will love Navajo Grill, which must have been a private residence in a prior incarnation. Three distinct dining rooms with wooden floors and wrought metal tables and chairs. Two separate patios, including a new covered one. An elegant, rambling structure where one room seems to lead naturally to the next. In short, the whole effect resembles nothing so much as Santa Fe in the Hill Country, if that makes any sense. We were seated immediately, and a very good waiter took charge of us almost at once.
These days, I often start my meals with soup, because I've learned that in fine dining establishments, most chefs take special pride in their potage. Accordingly, my bride and I began our repast with corn soup, a sinfully rich concoction of corn, pepper jack cheese, and tortilla chips. The quality of the soup told us immediately that our night of dining would be memorable. Indeed, such proved to be the case. My wife was in the mood for something fishy and the special that night happened to be trout, so she made her choice accordingly. To me, trout is one of the most underrated and frequently forgotten eating fish, and Navajo Grill's nutty yet buttery preparation showed that it deserves to regain popularity. The accompanying white cheddar grits and side greens pleased her as well, a simply elegant dish. My own choice was the filet mignon, perfectly prepared medium rare, stuffed with bleu cheese and served with excellent mashed potatoes and toothsome asparagus. I was also determined that we should enjoy Texas wine on this occasion and the Becker Claret matched very well with both our selections. All too soon, it was time to split a chocolate dessert souffle, and we took our satisfied leave.
In the previous sentence, I may have implied that service was rushed. Instead, the pace was Hill Country casual, which is typical of these parts, a welcome change from hectic Dallas. Website is http://www.navajogrill.com/, where you can learn about the history of this establishment and the charming family that runs it.
In sum, a most delightful experience, and I believe that Navajo Grill can hold its own with virtually any restaurant in Dallas. Visit soon, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
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