Dining on fresh seafood is rather difficult in a landlocked city like Dallas. The good seafood isn't cheap and the cheap seafood isn't good. Oh, how I wish sometimes I lived in that marvelous metropolis known as Seattle, where every restaurant, dive, bar, brewpub, and hole-in-the-wall joint sports excellent fish, and you can dine like King Neptune for under $10. To fill this void, some partners joined together about a dozen years ago to create Half Shells Oyster Bar. One group split off and morphed into the chain called Rockfish. The other is known in seven states as Fish City Grill, although two locations still retain the Half Shells moniker. My lovely wife the Rock Star and my best friend The Rock journeyed to our local Half Shells location on a recent Sunday lunch visit. (For purposes of clarity, I will henceforth in this review call the chain Fish City.)
ATMOSPHERE
The atmosphere of Fish City Grill practically screams "neighborhood bar." Very narrow, strip-shopping-center locations, only seating perhaps half-a-hundred patrons. Wood and exposed brick, with a couple of TV's, and numerous blackboards offering the daily specials. In other words, a very inviting joint, but quite small, so be prepared for a wait at peak times. Luckily, the three of us were seated immediately and started perusing the simple menus, which are conveniently left in a box on every table.
FOOD
Most entrees are under $10 and taste very fresh, and if you're a longtime resident of the Metroplex like me, you wonder how can this be, since most Dallas seafood establisments won't even let you open the menu for less than $10. Just after being seated, I noticed one of the ubiquitious blackboards offering a daily special: Blackened Tilapia for $6.99. 6.99! In Dallas! Are you kidding me? And it's fresh? I opted for it there and then, while my two companions decided on fried seafood baskets. (Fried seafood is a longtime Texas tradition, probably started to mask the lack of freshness.) The baskets came with waffle fries and hushpuppies (another Texas seafood tradition, the balls of fried cornmeal are quite delightful), but the Rock wisely substituted excellent, spiced rice in place of potatoes. Both left few remnants of their repast. My tilapia was served with the same wonderful rice and a medley of fresh steamed veggies (zucchini, carrots, and broccoli) and I happily devoured it, plate and all. (OK, I left the plate, but not much else.) On other visits, I have quite enjoyed the generous fish tacos (which are really wraps, but fish wraps sounds more like something you would throw into the trash), and the incredibly delicious Tabasco-infused shrimp pasta (keep plenty of water close at hand for this one, you'll need it!)
SERVICE
I wish I could say that speedy, friendly service was a highlight of our visit, but not on this occasion. Michael, our server, seemed indifferent or preoccupied, repeatedly getting our order wrong, and otherwise in a hurry to get rid of us. To be honest, I think there was a communication (language) problem afoot, or maybe we were just a victim of SDS. (Sunday Dining Syndrome: On Sundays, the owner or manager is frequently absent in restaurants, often resulting in uncaring service.) Let me stress that such service is not the norm for the Fish City chain, as I have visited three different locations on at least a dozen occasions. This was definitely an abberation from the norm.
WEBSITE
The Fish City Grill website can be reached at www.fishcitygrill.com. You'll note that there are now locations in seven states, hopefully one near you.
OVERALL
Despite the service gaffes, the Rock Star and I (and perhaps The Rock) will dine again at Fish City / Half Shells again in future, and you should, too. Visit soon, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
Sunday, October 14, 2007
Sunday, October 7, 2007
Wine Corner Review #4: Robert Mondavi Private Selection Sauvignon Blanc
Not many grandsons can boast that their grandma actually worked at a liquor store well into her 80's. Yet my best female friend (at least until my lovely wife the Rock Star came along) could find no other employment so she took the job and stayed almost a dozen years, often outworking her much younger coworkers. You should have seen G29 (my pet name for her, indicating her age of choice; she was 29 for some 55 years) lifting heavy wine cases that the 20-something males could barely move, and doing it all cheerfully and with a ready smile. She developed a taste for the grape, and Robert Mondavi was her tipple of choice. So it is in tribute to her that I raise a glass of Robert Mondavi Private Selection Sauvignon Blanc, a stellar selection from the winery's value line.
The robe is a pale, straw color, indicating the delicate nature of the goodness which awaits. The nose opens just as gently, with lemon, lime and grapefruit spreading like a bouquet of fresh summer citrus blossoms, but not quite as fruity. Crisp Granny Smith apples spread like clover over the palate upon tasting, leaving just a finishing kiss of mineral. Like all sauvignon blancs, the Mondavi is just heaven-sent to accompany seafood, particularly grilled halibut and tilapia, and can pair well even with robust sauces (try it on chicken as well).
Robert Mondavi actually has more than one website: www.mondavi.com accesses the main one, www.rmprivateselection.com leads you to the Private Selection line. The company also owns Woodbridge and La Famiglia; C K Mondavi is totally separate, an outgrowth of the Charles Krug winery which was purchased in the 1930's by the Mondavi family. Pick up a bottle of Robert Mondavi Private Selection Sauvignon Blanc soon, join me in toasting my dear, sweet grandmother, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
The robe is a pale, straw color, indicating the delicate nature of the goodness which awaits. The nose opens just as gently, with lemon, lime and grapefruit spreading like a bouquet of fresh summer citrus blossoms, but not quite as fruity. Crisp Granny Smith apples spread like clover over the palate upon tasting, leaving just a finishing kiss of mineral. Like all sauvignon blancs, the Mondavi is just heaven-sent to accompany seafood, particularly grilled halibut and tilapia, and can pair well even with robust sauces (try it on chicken as well).
Robert Mondavi actually has more than one website: www.mondavi.com accesses the main one, www.rmprivateselection.com leads you to the Private Selection line. The company also owns Woodbridge and La Famiglia; C K Mondavi is totally separate, an outgrowth of the Charles Krug winery which was purchased in the 1930's by the Mondavi family. Pick up a bottle of Robert Mondavi Private Selection Sauvignon Blanc soon, join me in toasting my dear, sweet grandmother, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
Quickie Review #8: Planet Burrito
These days, build-your-own burrito places seem as ubiquitous as pessimists at a Sylvia Plath convention, what with Freebirds, Qdoba, and Chipotle enticing the hungry diner with tortilla-and-sauce confections. All are excellent, but in my mind, the standout in the bunch is Planet Burrito, the new Texas-based chain that has only two locations at this time, with more hopefully on the way. Just like the other chains, you order at the counter (or call ahead if you like) and they build your very own culinary creation right before your eyes.
My lovely wife the Rock Star likes to build her own, and her choice of a small grilled steak burrito with corn pico, lettuce, and rice was very tempting indeed. She wanted queso blanco to tie the whole thing together, but was given white cheese instead. Not to worry, she reports that the accidental switch didn't cause much of a falloff in flavor, as the finished product was still quite tasty. Planet Burrito has specialty burritos as well, and one of my favorites is the Southwestern, a fetching amalgam of carnitas (pork), cheddar jack cheese, pepper pico de gallo, pinto beans, tomato chipotle rice, cilantro, and corn. Normally, Diablo sauce is used as sauce, making for an unforgettably fiery experience, but the superhot sauce is a little too warm for my tender tummy to take, so I opted to substitute salsa del norte instead, and while the burrito was still quite good it did not give me that transcendental torrent of taste I've come to expect from the Southwestern. Nonetheless, the quality of the ingredients shone through, making for a fabulous lunch. On other visits, I've really enjoyed the Texan: Picante beef brisket, braised in red chili sauce, with refried beans, tomato chipotle rice, cheddar jack, roasted garlic, pico de gallo, and chipotle BarBQ sauce. I'm a barbecue fanatic, so this delicious combo of Tex and Mex really rocks my world.
Planet Burrito also features tacos, salads, quesadillas, and nachos, if you're not into burritos, and boasts breakfast as well. (Note to self: must try breakfast, as it's hard to beat migas or bacon and egg burritos in the morning!) Planet Burrito is a very eco-friendly place, with Planet Responsibility as their mantra; find out all the particulars at www.planet-burrito.com. Do yourself a flavor and visit soon, and as always, remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
My lovely wife the Rock Star likes to build her own, and her choice of a small grilled steak burrito with corn pico, lettuce, and rice was very tempting indeed. She wanted queso blanco to tie the whole thing together, but was given white cheese instead. Not to worry, she reports that the accidental switch didn't cause much of a falloff in flavor, as the finished product was still quite tasty. Planet Burrito has specialty burritos as well, and one of my favorites is the Southwestern, a fetching amalgam of carnitas (pork), cheddar jack cheese, pepper pico de gallo, pinto beans, tomato chipotle rice, cilantro, and corn. Normally, Diablo sauce is used as sauce, making for an unforgettably fiery experience, but the superhot sauce is a little too warm for my tender tummy to take, so I opted to substitute salsa del norte instead, and while the burrito was still quite good it did not give me that transcendental torrent of taste I've come to expect from the Southwestern. Nonetheless, the quality of the ingredients shone through, making for a fabulous lunch. On other visits, I've really enjoyed the Texan: Picante beef brisket, braised in red chili sauce, with refried beans, tomato chipotle rice, cheddar jack, roasted garlic, pico de gallo, and chipotle BarBQ sauce. I'm a barbecue fanatic, so this delicious combo of Tex and Mex really rocks my world.
Planet Burrito also features tacos, salads, quesadillas, and nachos, if you're not into burritos, and boasts breakfast as well. (Note to self: must try breakfast, as it's hard to beat migas or bacon and egg burritos in the morning!) Planet Burrito is a very eco-friendly place, with Planet Responsibility as their mantra; find out all the particulars at www.planet-burrito.com. Do yourself a flavor and visit soon, and as always, remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
Sunday, September 30, 2007
Cellar Selection #1: Perrin & Fils Vacqueyras
Despite their often-questionable political stances, the French have contributed much to world culture: a tremendous playwright in Jean Giraudoux (who proved time and again in his plays that anyone, from street vendors to madwomen, can have the soul of a poet), the fabulous actress Juliette Binoche (The Unbearable Lightness of Being), and of course, wine. This is not just snobbery talking: even the most inexpensive French vin du pays has the ability to tantalize your tastebuds on multiple levels, and in my opinion, no one does a great blend quite like they do. So it is with complete confidence that I recommend the first Food Czar Cellar Selection, a truly marvelous blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah called Vacqueras Les Christins, by the Rhone appelation Perrin and Fils (which I believe means "fathers and sons").
Rather than reinvent the wheel, why don't I just quote directly from the tasting notes on their delightful (English language, but you can switch to French if you so desire) website, located at www.perrin-et-fils.com:
"An opulent forward youthful nose, bursting with sweet black fruits and rhubarb compote...packed with ripe fig, licorice, and currant paste flavors, backed by cocoa and graphite notes....The dark muscular finish has some serious grip, so cellar short-term to let it around to form. Best from 2008 to 2010."
There's not a whole lot I can add to that. Grenache is one of the best blending grapes around (there's even a white grenache extant and it's not bad) and of course, I've already spoken about how my lovely wife the Rock Star is the Queen of Shiraz so you know she was all over this bottle like white on rice. A fabulous quaff by itself, it also works with roast and grilled red meats, all spicy dishes, and strong cheeses. Pick up a bottle soon for your cellar, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
Rather than reinvent the wheel, why don't I just quote directly from the tasting notes on their delightful (English language, but you can switch to French if you so desire) website, located at www.perrin-et-fils.com:
"An opulent forward youthful nose, bursting with sweet black fruits and rhubarb compote...packed with ripe fig, licorice, and currant paste flavors, backed by cocoa and graphite notes....The dark muscular finish has some serious grip, so cellar short-term to let it around to form. Best from 2008 to 2010."
There's not a whole lot I can add to that. Grenache is one of the best blending grapes around (there's even a white grenache extant and it's not bad) and of course, I've already spoken about how my lovely wife the Rock Star is the Queen of Shiraz so you know she was all over this bottle like white on rice. A fabulous quaff by itself, it also works with roast and grilled red meats, all spicy dishes, and strong cheeses. Pick up a bottle soon for your cellar, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Quickie Review #7: Lenny's Sub Shop
My lovely wife the Rock Star and I honeymooned at a resort in the Poconos, deep in the wild jungles of Pennsylvania, where we stayed in a true Roman-style, two story, rock star suite, complete with champagne-glass-shaped jacuzzi, sauna, small pool, fireplace, and a bed with real fake stars overhead. During mealtimes, we loved to dine on genuine Philly cheesesteaks, and if you've ever eaten one, you know you've had one of the true gourmet dining experiences in all America. Most sub chains have something they call a cheesesteak, but 99.9% just can't compare with the real thing. Well now, my friends, you don't have to go to Philly, the Poconos, or even Atlantic City, just pay a visit to your local Lenny's Sub Shop, now found in almost twenty states nationwide.
Lenny's offers many different types of cold subs, hot subs, and round sandwiches, so if cheesesteaks aren't your thing, you have plenty of choices. Nevertheless, if you like Phillys at all, you must try Lenny's version, as their founder started his career in Wildwood, New Jersey, close to The Source, and thus knows what he's doing. I tried Lenny's version on wheat bread, hot, with all the veggies, plus hot pepper relish. YOU MUST ORDER THE CHEESESTEAK WITH HOT PEPPER RELISH. Like all true cheesesteaks, this one was buttery, cheesey, and all around melt-in-your-mouth good, plus the pepper relish adds a great kick that makes it extra special. The Rock Star loves their Traditional Sub, with capicola, ham, and provolone on white bread. Unless you have a HUGE appetite, the regular sizes are plenty, and Lenny's store brand chips are excellent as well. Check them out at www.lennyssubshop.com and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
Lenny's offers many different types of cold subs, hot subs, and round sandwiches, so if cheesesteaks aren't your thing, you have plenty of choices. Nevertheless, if you like Phillys at all, you must try Lenny's version, as their founder started his career in Wildwood, New Jersey, close to The Source, and thus knows what he's doing. I tried Lenny's version on wheat bread, hot, with all the veggies, plus hot pepper relish. YOU MUST ORDER THE CHEESESTEAK WITH HOT PEPPER RELISH. Like all true cheesesteaks, this one was buttery, cheesey, and all around melt-in-your-mouth good, plus the pepper relish adds a great kick that makes it extra special. The Rock Star loves their Traditional Sub, with capicola, ham, and provolone on white bread. Unless you have a HUGE appetite, the regular sizes are plenty, and Lenny's store brand chips are excellent as well. Check them out at www.lennyssubshop.com and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
Tuesday, September 18, 2007
Quickie Review #6: Wing Stop
Once routinely discarded as an unsaleable trimming, chicken wings have by now been fully embraced by the American dining public. Both my lovely wife The Rock Star and I adore them, so on a recent Monday Night football evening, we decided to pick up some to enjoy at home while watching the game. (Football and wings: Is America great or what?) Since their locations are becoming as ubiquitous as Starbucks, we decided to give our neighborhood Wing Stop a try, and now we're kicking ourselves for not having tried them sooner. We prefer our wings boneless, so we decided on the 16 piece boneless breast strip order. (Yes, I know breast strips are not wings; please work with me here, people!) For our three flavors, we selected Mild, Lemon Pepper, and Garlic Parmesan. The Lemon Pepper strips were zesty and tangy, the Garlic Parmesan ones were tart and cheesy, and as for the Mild, WELL!!! In wing parlance, mild usually translates into "only for the wusses" (timid people). Not these babies, they were crisply breaded and absolutely packed full of crunchy flavor. Don't forget to try their famous, seasoned fries as well, with SKINS ON for better flavor and nutrition. The URL is www.wingstop.com and you can order ONLINE. One very minor quibble: the website boasts that each location is outfitted with old aviation decor and artifacts. I wonder if this is still the case: our local storefront in Plano looked pretty spartan to me. In any case, the wings are the thing, so you should drop by soon, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
Monday, September 17, 2007
FOOD CZAR REVIEW #12: CANTINA LAREDO
The Momma is none other than the lovely mother of my beloved wife The Rock Star. Still boppin' away in her mid-seventies, and looking better than she has ever looked throughout her rather long life (I think she only admits to 29; I know my grandmother was that age for many years!), she sometimes treats us to dinner. Since my wife and I believe there's nothing better than free food and her gracious company, we're often quick to comply. On a recent Saturday evening, the three of us felt a hankerin' for great Mexican food, but not just any Mexican food. We wanted the great cuisine that only a high value Gourmex restaurant can provide (Gourmex = gourmet + Mexican: I just love to make up my own words!) My dear mother-in-law usually prefers her dear, beloved Mi Cocina, but with a little arm-twisting, the Rock Star and I convinced her to give Cantina Laredo a try.
ATMOSPHERE
My wife and I have tried two or three locations of this chain (outposts of which are now located in half-a-dozen states), and we can honestly say they don't look very much alike, since they seem to try to fit into available space. They do share several traits, however. An understated, elegant atmosphere with an attached bar area that seems to get pretty boisterous at Happy Hour. Strolling mariachi musicians (featuring an accordion along with the usual guitars). Lots of wood and brass. In a word, quite upscale yet very convival. The three of us were seated immediately with copies of their one-page, laminated menu, which we perused over glasses of the Cantina's very nice Sangria.
FOOD
The cuisine at Cantina Laredo shines like a shooting star in the Southern sky. (How's that for alliteration?) From previous dining experiences, I know The Momma loves her some guacamole, and since Top Shelf Guacamole was a featured item on the menu, I suggested we order some. WOW!!! Ripe avocadoes, tomatoes, red onions, spices, and just the right amount of jalapenos and cilantro combined to make this among the finest versions of the green stuff I've ever encountered. The three of us eagerly devoured it all while awaiting delivery of our entrees. The Momma usually selects some form of nachos, but she also can't resist a good spinach enchilada and so decided to go for the Enchiladas De Espinaca. Enchiladas stuffed with spinach, mushrooms, and Monterey Jack cheese were topped with a tasty but slightly bland sour cream poblano sauce. (Not to worry, just sprinkle a touch of one of the two complimentary salsas atop your order and you should be good to go.) For her part, The Rock Star ordered a combination of beef and chicken fajita meat soft tacos and I decided to join her, opting instead for the beef fajita soft tacos and Tacos Al Pastore (marinated pork). In both cases, soft flour tortillas were served brimming with perfectly spiced meat, the leftovers of which should make for excellent late-night dining one day soon. (If you think I'm going to let these heavenly babies sit for many days in the refrigerator, you've got another think coming!) Very good rice, nice borracho beans (really more like bean soup) and excellent grilled veggies completed our meal, which satisfied us all so much we could't even begin to think of dessert.
SERVICE
Jorge absolutely OWNED our tables, eager with suggestions and forthcoming with ready answers to questions. Cantina Laredo seems to follow the policy of not only bringing you to go boxes, but also physically BOXING UP the leftovers for you! (A practiced much appreciated by the ladies of our party.)
WEBSITE
Cantina Laredo is owned by Consolidated Restaurant Operations Inc, which owns several fine brands including Good Eats. Website can be reached at www.cantinalaredo.com. Sign up for their email club, although that link wasn't working when I tried to access it.
OVERALL
The Momma now declares that she has a new favorite spot for Mexican, and one visit should convince you how good it is. Visit Cantina Laredo soon, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
ATMOSPHERE
My wife and I have tried two or three locations of this chain (outposts of which are now located in half-a-dozen states), and we can honestly say they don't look very much alike, since they seem to try to fit into available space. They do share several traits, however. An understated, elegant atmosphere with an attached bar area that seems to get pretty boisterous at Happy Hour. Strolling mariachi musicians (featuring an accordion along with the usual guitars). Lots of wood and brass. In a word, quite upscale yet very convival. The three of us were seated immediately with copies of their one-page, laminated menu, which we perused over glasses of the Cantina's very nice Sangria.
FOOD
The cuisine at Cantina Laredo shines like a shooting star in the Southern sky. (How's that for alliteration?) From previous dining experiences, I know The Momma loves her some guacamole, and since Top Shelf Guacamole was a featured item on the menu, I suggested we order some. WOW!!! Ripe avocadoes, tomatoes, red onions, spices, and just the right amount of jalapenos and cilantro combined to make this among the finest versions of the green stuff I've ever encountered. The three of us eagerly devoured it all while awaiting delivery of our entrees. The Momma usually selects some form of nachos, but she also can't resist a good spinach enchilada and so decided to go for the Enchiladas De Espinaca. Enchiladas stuffed with spinach, mushrooms, and Monterey Jack cheese were topped with a tasty but slightly bland sour cream poblano sauce. (Not to worry, just sprinkle a touch of one of the two complimentary salsas atop your order and you should be good to go.) For her part, The Rock Star ordered a combination of beef and chicken fajita meat soft tacos and I decided to join her, opting instead for the beef fajita soft tacos and Tacos Al Pastore (marinated pork). In both cases, soft flour tortillas were served brimming with perfectly spiced meat, the leftovers of which should make for excellent late-night dining one day soon. (If you think I'm going to let these heavenly babies sit for many days in the refrigerator, you've got another think coming!) Very good rice, nice borracho beans (really more like bean soup) and excellent grilled veggies completed our meal, which satisfied us all so much we could't even begin to think of dessert.
SERVICE
Jorge absolutely OWNED our tables, eager with suggestions and forthcoming with ready answers to questions. Cantina Laredo seems to follow the policy of not only bringing you to go boxes, but also physically BOXING UP the leftovers for you! (A practiced much appreciated by the ladies of our party.)
WEBSITE
Cantina Laredo is owned by Consolidated Restaurant Operations Inc, which owns several fine brands including Good Eats. Website can be reached at www.cantinalaredo.com. Sign up for their email club, although that link wasn't working when I tried to access it.
OVERALL
The Momma now declares that she has a new favorite spot for Mexican, and one visit should convince you how good it is. Visit Cantina Laredo soon, and remember:
LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!
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