Food Czar

Texas Tipples: Chisholm Trail Lone Wolf Lenoir

2011-09-27T09:18:00.000-07:00

Winemakers have to deal with a variety of natural troubles, such as lack of rainfall, unseasonable wet or cold, and crop pests and maladies. Two of the deadliest of these are phylloxera and Pierce's disease, and developing vines that are resistant is one of the top priorities of winemaking programs such as the University of California at Davis. But, here in Texas, one natural grape variety has built up resistence to both phylloxera and Pierce's: The very dark black Spanish grape also known as Lenoir (literally, French for "The Black"). Reports of Lenoir date back to the mid-1800's where it was discovered in Texas, then introduced to France. My wining partner and I sampled Chisholm Trail's Lone Wolf Lenoir during a tasting at their facility outside Fredericksburg, Texas.

In the tasting glass, Lone Wolf Lenoir is midnight violet in color, almost black. The nose sports rich plum and boysenberry. Very chewy on the palate, with blackberry and baking spices, and a raspberry, currant, and vanilla finish. Pairing Lone Wolf Lenoir with trail meats such as steaks, barbecue and game would be natural, as this tipple could stand up to any beef or red meat dish.
Hopefully, more Texas vineyards besides Chisholm Trail and Dry Comal Creek will see the light and begin growing this dark varietal. You see, while Lone Wolf Lenoir might be disease-resistent, true red wine lovers will be unable to resist its shadowy charms.

Eat This: Steak en Salsa Verde at Chitos Mexican Restaurant

2011-08-02T08:42:00.000-07:00

Quite often, a good way of finding a great dish at an eating establishment is to ask for your waiter's recommendation. Usually, he or she is eager to help, and will point out one or more of their particular favorites. However, if they reply, "Everything is good here," this can be a signal to be on your guard, because that can mean that nothing stands out and everything is mediocre. Happily, such is not the case at award-winning Chitos Mexican Restaurant, the friendly little taqueria tucked in behind a Chevron Station on Legacy Drive. Recently, I posed this very question to proprietor Gabriel Correro, and he smiled and offered, "It depends on how spicy you like it." If you like it kind of mild, I suggest the Asado de Puerco Rojo, however, it you like it really spicy, then I suggest the Steak en Salsa Verde." Indeed, I had loved the Asado on previous occasions when he recommended it, so I was emboldended to try steak. In due course, he brought out a pretty platter of steak sliced carne asada style, surrounded by a sea of zesty green tomatillo sauce and sided by good rice and beans and homemade corn tortillas. Paired with a tall, cooling Horchata de Agua Fresca, this dish is solid enough to make you want to come back again next time you need a fillup. However, you need not fill up on the same dish every time. Just ask Gabriel what's good, and he's certain to blow his horn for something wonderful.

CHITOS MEXICAN RESTAURANT

301 Legacy Drive, Suite B

Plano, TX

972 527-2704

www.chitosmexicanrestaurant.com

Eat This: West Texas Enchiladas at Tupinamba

2011-07-04T13:37:00.001-07:00

Note: I first wrote about this old-time Tex-Mex classic a few years back. Not long ago, I decided to try them again. Here's what I found...

If you're from the Lone Star State, you've probably eaten enchiladas all your life, without realizing that the word in Spanish is actually an adjective rather than a noun. According to Tex-Mex guru Robb Walsh, enchiladas were originally called "tortillas enchiladas," or "chillied tortillas" in English, a term which refers to the traditional method of preparation where tortillas were dipped in chile sauce and lightly fried. These days, most enchiladas you encounter in Dallas will be rolled, but some restaurants also feature stacked enchiladas, alternating layers of fillings that are common in parts of West Texas and New Mexico. Longtime Tex-Mex stalwart Tupinamba combines thick, pancake-style tortillas with beef, cheese, chili gravy, and onions topped with a fried egg. Classic comfort food, which I will gladly stack up against any other Tex-Mex dish in town. Not Mexico City style, these enchiladas come from deep in the heart of West Texas.

In other words, as good as ever.

TUPINAMBA

12770 Inwood Rd

Dallas, TX 75244

972-991-8148

www.tupinambarestaurant.com

Eat This: Rover Nuts at Irish Rover Pub

2011-06-05T13:40:00.000-07:00

How appropriate that our beloved colleague Alice Laussade was nominated for a James Beard award for her story on State Fair fried foods. We Texans love to fry things, especially potatoes. And since it's quite difficult to get good French fries in our fair city, why not try frying mashed potatoes instead? Why not indeed. Irish Rover Pub, part of the burgeoning Celtic migration to our Northern suburbs, has concocted a beer-friendly appetizer of mashed potatoes, cheese, onions, bacon bits, and jalapenos rolled in bread crumbs and fried to a tasty golden brown. These munchworthy morsels pair wonderfully with a hearty brew such as the M & M (Murphy's Red blended with Murphy's Stout), served in a true ale-lovers 20-ounce size. (At Rover, the pint is the smaller of the two draft sizes served, a most welcome trend.) Giving new meaning to the term "beer nuts," these delectibles are best enjoyed with an evening of trivia, conversation, or a great band such as the Rumble Kings. Trust me, you'll go nuts for them.

IRISH ROVER PUB

8250 Gaylord Parkway

Frisco, Texas

214 618-6222

Eat This: Cedars Signature Griller at Cedars Woodfire Grill

2011-05-01T13:03:00.000-07:00

Grilling brings out something primal in our Texan nature, best exemplified by the playful title of Bobby Flays book, Boy Meets Grill. (Yes, I know The Redheaded One is from The Big Apple, however he earned Honorary Texan status by marrying a Lone Star gal. From Big D, no less.) Speaking of which, it seems that Woodfire Grill establishments of one sort or another are springing up like ground hogs after a rainstorm hereabouts. But while Kennys and Zea Woodfire Grills are full-fledged restaurants, it would be nice if there were a fast casual place that did the same sort of thing, i.e. healthy grilling over a wood fire. Well, Cedars Woodfire Grill has just opened at the burgeoning intersection of Midway and Park and features woodfire grilling, but in a fast casual setting. Cedars offers bowls and salads featuring grilled meats, but also sandwiches such as the Signature Griller. Merely choose your protein from chicken, salad, steak, or baby Portobello and Cedars will grill it on rustica bread and add tomato, lettuce, grilled red onion, applewood smoked bacon, Cheddar cheese, and their own tangy, slightly sweet BBQ sauce. The steak is super tender and juicy because its grilled medium unless you request otherwise. Sided with good pita chips, Cedars Signature Griller is good enough to make even Bobby Flay forsake his gal for his grill, if only to make one for her as well. Such a gentleman!

CEDARS WOODFIRE GRILL

6509 W. Park Blvd.

Plano, TX

972 378-1222

Eat This: The Italian Sandwich at Lone Star Coffee Bar

2011-04-15T08:31:00.000-07:00

Today’s coffee bars serve more than java and jive. Now, breakfast, lunch, and even beer and wine service are offered in the hopes that customers will linger on into the afternoon and evening. One such place is Lone Star Coffee Bar, which in addition to serving genuine French Press coffee, adds breakfast tacos, baked goods, and sandwiches to the menu. Featured wiches include Club Panini, Turkey & Swiss, and the Italian, a mélange of meats and cheeses that would make Mussolini or Marlon Brando proud. All in a slender, storefront setting which includes plenty of comfy couches, chairs, and even a fireplace should you wish to linger. Currently, Lone Star is BYOB, yet they soon plan to offer Texas beers and wines so that you can get there for breakfast, spend the day surfing with free WIFI, and have enough libations to make sure you jump, jive, and wail your way well into the evening.

LONE STAR COFFEE BAR

6800 Windhaven Pkwy, #105

The Colony, TX

972 306-4555

Eat This: Orecchietta Pasta at Fino's Italian Bistro

2011-03-20T12:57:00.000-07:00

“Friends, Romans, countrymen, lend me your ears.” So begins the famous Marc Antony speech memorized by many a high school speech, drama, or English student back in the day, and immortalized by Marlon Brando in the infamous 1953 movie Julius Caesar. In modern Italian cooking terms, orecchietta is a home-made pasta from the Apulia region which is shaped to resemble a small ear. At Fino’s Italian Bistro, one of chef Alfredo’s favorite dishes to prepare is Orecchietta with spicy Italian sausage, broccoli, zucchini, and parmesan cheese in tomato sauce. If you cock your ear close to the plate, you just might catch a few strands of Shakespeare’s immortal verse. In any case, grab every friend and countryman and all the Romans you can find and head to this neighborhood gem for a pasta feast.

WINES THAT ROCK: SYNCHRONICITY IN A GLASS

2011-02-01T06:37:00.000-08:00

Most people associate rock and rock with beer chugging or whiskey drinking, but it’s no secret that a lot of rockers are turning to wine as their tipple of choice. Inevitably, a winemaker would pick up on this relationship and start his own line of wines featuring classic rock themes. Well, winemaker Mark Beaman has done just that by partnering with Mendocino Wine Company and producing Wines That Rock. Each wine in the series is based on a classic rock theme or band, such as Woodstock Chardonnay, Rolling Stones Forty Licks Merlot, and Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of the Moon Cabernet Sauvignon. Recently, The Police’s Synchronicity was debuted in New York at the Food Network’s Wine and Food Festival. Besides winning competition awards, Wines That Rock has received Governor’s Environmental Awards from the State of California for their eco-friendly practices. Also, a portion of the proceeds from each sale goes to benefit Cancer, AIDS, and Leukemia Research.

Bottle art connoisseurs will surely want to collect Wines That Rock, for the company spares no expense with the label. Each bottle of Synchronicity is adorned with the album’s artwork, and collectors will want to get a couple of bottles, one to sample and one to save.

Synchronicity, naturally, is a blend, and the combination of Carignane, Zinfandel, Syrah, Petit Syrah, Grenache, and Viognier makes for a deep burgundy color. The nose is slightly floral, with currants and vanilla, and a whiff of strawberries. Plum hits your palate first, then berries, then some citrus notes, and the wine finally finishes with full-on raspberries. This wine would pair with all manner of light red meat dishes, some hearty pastas and salads, and (perfect for a rockin’ wine) pizza. Needless to say, listening to the album Synchronicity while quaffing is recommended, since that way you can best experience the “shimmering surfaces and glacial shadows” of the music that Beaman tried to incorporate into every bottle.

BOTTLE BATTLE: CHILEAN SAUVIGNON BLANCS

2011-01-05T08:04:00.000-08:00

When most novice tipplers first hear the term sauvignon blanc, which means “wild white” in French, they often believe that it must be similar to white zinfandel, which is a rose wine made from red grapes. In fact , this varietal is one of the proud parents of cabernet sauvignon, having been crossed with cabernet franc back in the 18^th century. It is the premier white grape of Bordeaux, where its bone-dry finish has proved to be a perfect match for seafood for many years. Since this varietal needs warmth without oppressive heat to truly flourish, it does well in maritime climates such as California and New Zealand.

Valparaiso, located on Chile’s Central Coast, has a similar climate and thus has established itself as ground zero for sauvignon blanc in South America. Chilean sauvignon blancs tend to be more similar to those of Bordeaux than, say, those of New Zealand, where the blancs are known for higher levels of acidity and the famous “grassy” or asparagus taste noticed by many drinkers.

Two of the leading wine producers in Chile are Santa Rita and Concha y Toro. Therefore, I thought that a tasteoff between sauvignon blancs of these two behemoths might be in order.

First up was the Santa Rita 120, so named to honor 120 freedom fighters who took refuge in the cellars after an exhausting battle for Chilean independence. Santa Rita’s sauvignon sports a light greenish-gold color, and an abundance of nectarine and tropical fruits and flowers on the nose. The finish Is long and bright, and there are plenty of grapefruit flavors on the palate. A delightful, summery picnic wine and wonderfully easy on the pocketbook as well.

Next was the Concha y Toro blanc, marketed under the Casillero del Diablo name and priced just a few dollars more. (Chilean wines, like their Argentine counterparts, represent wonderful value.) The color was much paler, but the nose and taste were more delightfully complex, not only plenty of grapefruit and citrus, but also lime, with a nice finish of minerals, Bordeaux style. This blanc was meant to be paired with food, and I enjoyed the rest of my tasting with a small bowl of tomato chicken curry. Both blancs, I suspect, would do justice to all manner of seafood and most spicy eats as well.

In sum, while I enjoyed Santa Rita 120 Sauvignon Blanc as an inexpensive summer quaff, I give the nod to Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo for its mineral complexity and better pairing possibilities.

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #63: MAMA PITA'S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL

2010-12-02T06:32:00.000-08:00

Once limited to burgers, tacos, and chicken, the diner-on-the-go has more choices available these days than just going through the nearest drive-thru. Fast casual is still one of the hottest new segments of the restaurant game, with sub sandwich shops, delis, and build-your-own burrito places racking up impressive business. Even Asian food has entered the fray with places such as Pei-Wei and Roti Grill. Now, Mama Pita Mediterranean Grill has joined the battle as well, promising fresh ingredients assembled into a tasty feast right before your very eyes.

The Shops at Legacy can sometimes be daunting to navigate, yet Mama Pita is easy to find, clearly marked and located on Legacy Drive itself just East of the Tollway. The décor of this box features dark woods, bricks, and photos depicting everyday life in the Mediterranean. Merely make your way to the back, where your smiling hostess stands at the Chipotle-style assembly counter ready to tell you how Mama Pita works.

Basically, there are four different styles of meals at various price points, and each meal contains two or more categories of eats: salads, dips, mains and sides. Prices start at $6.95 for a simple Pita Wrap, progressing all the way up to $9.90 for the Combo Platter with shrimp. At these prices, I decided that I could easily afford to try a little bit of everything, so I splurged for the Combo Platter. My sprawling salad was Fattouch, which combined lettuce, tomatoes, and cucumbers with a deft touch of pomegranate molasses, and a sumptuous olive and lemon dressing crowned with toasted pita chips. A little heavy on the dressing, but this salad sported good, fresh produce and was a sign of things to come. My dip was Mama’s Homemade Garlic Paste, which was intensely flavored garlic overload and was a great accompaniment to the other dishes when used sparingly. I chose Kafta and Falafel for my mains, and these were a bit disappointing: The Kafta, grilled minced lamb and beef, was slightly underdone and definitely underseasoned (my garlic dip came in handy here), but the Falafel was better, two crispy pucks of garbanzo and minced fava beans, nicely spiced indeed. Both mains were on the smallish side, but I sure couldn’t quibble about the price. Mama’s Patatas proved to be the star of my platter, wonderfully crisp potato bits seasoned with parsley and spices, and better than three-fourths of the French Fries you can get around town. Finally, I had asked for a pita to wrap my ingredients, and these proved to be quite tasty and large, the size and shape of your basic manhole cover.

The serving ladies at the counter were quite cheerful and eager to explain the process, and they did a wonderful job of speeding me through the line without feeling rushed. In short, Mama Pita is no Café Istanbul, but with low prices, quick service, and fresh food, they present quite an intriguing alternative to the burgers, tacos, and chicken joints that make up the usual fast options.

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #62: CHITOS MEXICAN RESTAURANT

2010-11-05T09:01:00.000-07:00

Savvy Dallas food folk know their taquerias. They can see through the folderol of twelve-dollar fajitas and the folly of enchiladas antisepticas offered by far too many chains. They know that great Mexican food can be found just about anywhere in our fair city, be it strip mall, hole-in-the-wall, or gas station. In the latter category, longtime aficionados wax rhapsodic about Fuel City’s tacos, while the Lake Highlands crowd knows all about Good 2 Go Tacos. Believe it or not, north Plano sports an excellent gas station establishment, Chitos Mexican Restaurant, tucked in behind a Chevron station on Legacy Drive. I first visited Chitos about a year ago amidst rumors that they had some of the best tostadas in the Metroplex, and I decided recently to see firsthand if they were still holding down the quality fort.

Gabriel and Sandra Correa bought Chitos just over a year ago, and immediately set out to make warm, familial service a hallmark of the place, while maintaining excellence in the culinary category. After greeting and seating me, I was handed a menu, where I was delighted to find that the prices were still quite low, with most offerings under $10. I knew that Horchata Agua Fresca would make an excellent accompaniment to the spicy fare, and I ordered one. Loaded with cinnamon and spices and generously portioned, this fresca was large enough to sustain me throughout the meal, and I took home plenty besides. Chips and salsa tasted fresh, and the salsa had a delightful tang. After due perusal, I decided to order a pollo tostada and my waiter’s recommendation of Asado De Puerco Rojo. I was also considering a sopa, but my genial waiter stopped me by asking, “Are you sure? This is a lot of food. You can always order it later if you are still hungry.” I really appreciated his honesty, and decided to wait.

In short order, my tostada was brought, and I was delighted to find it still piled high with freight: fresh chicken, lettuce, tomatoes, beans, crema, and queso fresco. All these ingredients served quite well to highlight the chicken rather than mask it, particularly the queso fresco. I also used the jalapeno and tomatillo salsas my waiter brought to good effect, sparingly so that just a touch of heat was added. Very large and crunchy, it would have made an excellent lunch if I had eaten the whole thing, but I wanted to save room for the Puerco. Outstanding pork with a pastor flavor was presented in a fiery red sauce with excellent rice and beans, making for one of the most savory, sumptuous Mexican meals I’ve had in a long time. No salsa necessary for this dish, as each bite was full of roasted sweet heat. Again, portions were quite generous, so there was a lot to take home, and as my waiter suggested, I didn’t need to add a sopa.

Service throughout was family gracious, and the chef herself stopped by to make sure I had enjoyed everything. This meal was proof that at Chitos you can fill your stomach as well as your car, and both will be quite content.

Go To The GO TEXAN Wine Garden At The State Fair of Texas

2010-10-05T07:49:00.000-07:00

On a busy weekend at the State Fair of Texas when teeming throngs of teens and folks of all ages are crowding the corny dog stands and other concessions, the Go Texan Wine Garden stands like a little Hill Country oasis near the Food and Fiber Pavillion. There's a large shade tree and covered tables, plus more open seating facing the smallish stage where excellent jazz and blues groups hold sway on weekends. (When we visited, the featured acts were the Jeff George Band and Miss Marcy.) Three tasting booths await your business, featuring tipple samples for two or three tickets each, plus full glasses at 16-17 tickets. Full bottles can be had as well, and there is a small Bistro that serves beer, soft drinks, a few other wines, and light snacks.

Come on in. Relax. You deserve it. Linger for an hour or so. Try a sample or three. Listen to the wonderful music. Hear wine talks from featured Texas winemakers, as this year the garden features all Texas tipples. Even on the most crowded days, my lovely wife and myself found room to sit. Recharge your batteries. Experience the magic of life and the sense of temporary community that wine tastings with music can bring. Then, a little reluctantly but fully recharged, take your leave. Most important, please visit before the last day of the fair October 17. Hopefully, this sweet oasis is not a mirage like Brigadoon but will reemerge from the mists again about this time next year.

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #61: THE PLACE AT PERRY'S

2010-09-14T06:39:00.000-07:00

Note: I had written this post to appear in another space right after Restaurant Week, but alas, it was not to be. Still, better late than never. Enjoy!

Many critics and bloggers alike don’t think much of Restaurant Week. They bemoan the fact that newbies have crowded them out of their favorite tables during prime dining hours, and the fact that some establishments, even some with stellar reputations, have taken on an assembly-line, move-‘em-through quality that ensures maximum turnover of tables.

Happily, such is not the case at The Place at Perry’s, one of Dallas’ better steak palaces that prides itself on Niman Ranch beef, fresh seafood, and quality ingredients. Still, while the food was mostly excellent and the wine outstanding, service can often make or break a place during RW. In this case, our server came through with flying colors.

Kristen seems to have learned the fact that the fine art of service comes through correctly reading the table---that is, to be able to tell by often-subtle nonverbal cues whether to keep everything moving at a brisk pace, or slow it down just a tad if the customers seem to want to linger. My dining companion and I clearly showed that we were fine with a goodly pace early in the meal, but wanted to take it easy for a bit after dessert.

The Place at Perry’s denotes simple elegance, with basic foursquare tables, wall sconces, and tasteful celebrity photos on the walls for decoration. We especially liked the semi-enclosed, high-walled booths that conveyed intimacy without making us feel squirreled away from the rest of the room.

Wisely, we decided to order our RW repasts with wine pairings at $65 a person. Perry’s wine list is one of its most impressive features, designed to sate the palate without busting the budget. We began with salads (I wish Perry’s had offered a soup option, but such was not the case); my dining companion choosing a very good wedge with Maytag bleu cheese and crispy bacon bits. The salad was not overdressed, which is often a problem with a wedge, and it paired wonderfully well with Piper-Heidseick Brut champagne. My Classic Caesar sported some of the best house-made croutons I’ve had in a long time, and my companion so enjoyed her sip of my glass of accompanying Rodney Strong Sauvignon Blanc that she chose it as her nightcap later.

She also was delighted with her entrée, the Herb-Encrusted Rainbow Trout, which proved both flaky and buttery, paired with an old friend, Masi Mansianco Pinot Grigio. Meanwhile, my Niman Ranch New York Strip Au Poivre (an old-school preparation currently enjoying a comeback) was quite good although a bit fatty and cooked just a tad beyond the requested medium rare. In this case, the steak was saved by the gorgonzola topping and the outstanding Oberon Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine worthy of Shakespeare. Best of all were the desserts: A simple chocolate fudge cake for my companion and a creamy house made cheesecake with espresso topping for myself.

True to her calling, Kristen let us linger longer at the end, while we enjoyed glasses of the sauvignon blanc and the superb Bodega Norton Malbec Reserve. She also managed to work in a subtle pitch for Slider Saturdays, Perry’s promotion featuring gourmet mini-burgers, without making us feel like we were being sold. In any case, we were sold on The Place at Perry’s, and figure that we might just have to take her up on the offer.

THE PLACE AT PERRY’S

2911 Routh Street

214 871-9991

http://www.theplaceatperrys.com/restaurant_week.htm

State Fair of Texas Wine Garden to Feature All Texas Wines

2010-08-24T06:32:00.000-07:00

One of the least known and appreciated attractions at the State Fair of Texas every year is the Wine Garden. Now in its fourth year, the garden offers free tastings, and in the past poured mostly California tipples. This year, it seems Kroger has withdrawn sponsorship, leaving the Texas Department of Agriculture firmly in charge, and they have made the exciting decision to serve only Texas wines, from two to four wineries per day, for a total of 24 Lone Star producers with quaffs. Here are the details:

http://blogs.dallasobserver.com/cityofate/2010/08/big_tex_will_go_all_texas_with.php

http://www.bigtex.com/sft/Entertainment/Entertainmentwinegarden.asp

This decision makes complete sense, and if I'm not mistaken, underscores the original purpose of the State Fair: To showcase Texas agriculture and the complete bounty of our wonderful state. Nothing wrong with California wines, of course, I drink a few myself. But this is a Texas product showcase, and will hopefully introduce legions of new fans into the ever-growing, ever-improving world of Texas wines.

KRLD Restaurant Week 2010 - August 16th Through August 30th at Select Dining Establishments

2010-07-12T07:55:00.000-07:00

Several friends of mine don't celebrate Christmas in a major way. They would rather spend their money in August during KRLD Restaurant Week. The official duration is from August 16th through the 22nd, but many participating establishments are extending it through the 30th, and some even celebrate Preview Weekend starting August 13th. Here is a list of the current participants:

http://krld.cbslocal.com/2010/07/08/krld-restaurant-week/

During this promotion, special three-course prix fixe menus are $35 a person, with a portion of the proceeds going to charity. Note that the list includes many high-end establishments, places where the entrees themselves often exceed $35. Also, should you attend the Preview Weekend at your favorite bistro, be advised that the price is $42, which includes a specialty cocktail.

Savvy diners know about the Central Market Fourth Course, available to those persons bearing a certificate obtained by spending $25 at any Central Market location. Also, really savvy persons reserve their tables through the Open Table system, where you build up points toward redeemable dining cheques. Here is their website:

www.opentable.com

Finally, many participating places offer 1000 Open Table dining points if you reserve your table during certain hours. Caution: You MUST reserve these tables using the special 1000 point dining link at Open Table. Otherwise, you will likely receive the usual 100 points.

This is a win-win situation for almost everyone. Charities benefit, diners benefit, and restaurants have full dining rooms during a traditionally slow month. The servers and staff may feel rushed by the increased business, but I'm happy to report that in most cases, I've received excellent service.

Reserve your tables now.

GO TEXAN RESTAURANT ROUND UP: SEPT 27TH - OCT 1ST 2010

2010-06-19T08:06:00.000-07:00

First call. I realize it's still early to be thinking about something that happens in late September, but you might want to make a mental note of the third annual Go Texan Restaurant Round-Up, which is scheduled for Sept 27 through October 1st, 2010. This program spotlights locally grown foods and wines, and is held throughout the Lone Star State. According to the Texas Department of Agriculture, some 500 establishments already participate in Go Texan.

If last years celebration is any indication, some well-regarded restaurants may be involved, including Pappas Bros, Blue Mesa Grill, and Fearings. Of course, there are no guarantees for 2010, but if enough Texas diners keep stepping up to the plate, then my hope is that this kind of program can become more like our beloved KRLD Restaurant Week and help our local growers, meat producers, and winemakers improve the quality of our local product. We've already got plenty of intrepid Lone Star producers producing excellent foodstuffs, and more would certainly be welcome.

GO OUT. GO EAT. GO TEXAN!!!

Wine Corner Review #60: Mirassou Chardonnay

2010-05-17T06:23:00.000-07:00

Question: What's America's oldest winemaking family? Gallo, you say? No, I'll give you a hint, it starts with an M. Ah, Mondavi, you reply. Wrong again, it's Mirassou, the California clan that has been crafting excellent yet affordable wines since 1854. Recently, my wife and I were guests at a superb dinner at Stephan Pyles Restaurant, where we had a delightful chat with sixth-generation winemaker David Mirassou. During our discourse, we bemoaned the fact that too many affordable chardonnays were overly oaky, thus tasting so much of tree that all the subtle flavors were lost. Affable David put our fears at ease: his chardonnay, he said, just contained a touch of oak, and he promised that we would enjoy a balance of flavors. Such proved to be the case, so without further ado, I invite you to try a glass or three of Mirassou Chardonnay.

The robe of the Mirassou Chardonnay is misted gold flecked with wheat. Nice apricot and vanilla on the nose. Swirl it around in your mouth and let the soft flavors of nectarines, vanilla, and citrus play across your palate, finishing with toast points and, yes, just a slight whisper of oak. At Stephan Pyles lovely dinner, this chard was paired with butter poached lobster with corn milk - green chile custard, harts of palm and black garlic cream. Very successful, but trust me, it will work just as well with plain old mac and cheese. Website is www.mirassou.com, where you will learn about the family's history, among other things. Learn about America's first family of winemaking soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Delish Dish 5: Bottomless Frites at Lemon Bar

2010-04-18T13:17:00.000-07:00

Want a cheap Happy Hour? Well, your in luck if you live in the West Village. Lemon Bar has just been opened a short time, yet it's already packing them in to the rafters with no signs of slowing down. Why so crowded? Well, prices for one. When beers start at $3, all day, every day, and your joint happens to be located in such a hip part of town, with a comely waitstaff to boot, well, guys and gals are very likely to show. The food is also worthwhile. Of course, there are the usual bar suspects, like wings and nachos, but also trendy fare, such as hummus or flatbreads. Yet, one of the very best dishes at Lemon Bar is also one of the humblest, a basket of bottomless frites. These fries are ultra-crispy and addictive, and a positive steal at four bucks. Actually, the biggest issue at Lemon Bar is parking; you shouldn't drive endlessly around the block looking for an empty spot, merely head for the West Village garage located smack dab in the middle of all the shops and restaurants. Website for Lemon Bar is www.thelemonbar.com, but it's still a work in progress.

Go barhopping sometime soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #59: Dry Creek Vineyard Fume Blanc

2010-03-20T08:07:00.000-07:00

Do you know that Robert Mondavi invented Fume Blanc? In the late sixties, sauvignon blanc had a poor reputation in California due to its aggressive grassiness, so Mondavi, ever the savvy marketer, coined the term Fume Blanc to connote sauvignon blanc made in the French style with barrel ageing, reminiscent of Pouille-Fume from the Loire Valley. Nowadays, the term has been exported to such places as Texas where such vintners as Becker also make Fumes. Rather than reminisce further on this fume folderol, why not just grab a glass and join me on the patio, so to speak, while we indulge in a glass or three of one of my new finds, the Dry Creek Vineyard Fume Blanc Sauvignon Blanc?

The robe of the Dry Creek Vineyard Fume Blanc is pale golden misty dawn. The nose reveals crisp melon and a slight wisp of tangerine. Tasting reinforces the crispy freshness, bringing grapefruit along for the ride. A very versatile wine, just great with virtually anything, especially pizza, bruschetta, and seafood pastas. Oh, and don't forget salads. Website is www.drycreekvineyard.com, should you care to investigate. Invent your own reason to celebrate soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR ROAD TRIP 10: AUGUST E'S RESTAURANT, FREDERICKSBURG, TEXAS

2010-02-21T08:54:00.000-08:00

My lovely wife The Rock Star and I have made no secret of our desire to someday move to Fredericksburg, that lovely Germanic hamlet just about an hour's drive from both San Antonio and Austin. We love the charming, very liveable and walkable downtown, the burgeoning music scene, and the delightful restaurants, most of which feature good, honest, unpretentious cuisine that warms and pleases the soul. However, we sometimes wish that this rather smallish town would add a few fine dining establishments that would not only please but thrill our palates. Luckily, this need has been anticipated and is being met, little by little. First, Cabernet Grill (formerly The Cotton Gin Restaurant, so named because of the restored building where it resides) set the bar quite nicely with a mostly surf and turf menu on one of our first visits. Then, on an expedition late last year, Navajo Grill pushed the envelope a bit farther, delivering excellent nouveau Texas food in a charmingly ramshackle house. Finally, on our most recent trip, we discovered August E's, which may be most praiseworthy of all. Since Fredericksburg is, after all, quite the little place, it was only a short drive from our favorite bed and breakfast to our newly discovered cathedral of consumption.

August E's is housed in a warehouse-type structure that would make Le Corbusier proud. Exposed metal beams and concrete walls give an Elmer Rice feel to the place, made warmer by excellent postmodern artwork hanging from said walls. White tablecloths and black-clad waitstaff add a touch of elegance to the place, a very urban feel unlike any other to be found in the Hill Country outside of Austin. Since we had Valentine's Day celebration reservations, we were shown right to our table and were taken charge of almost at once.

We began our repast with salad, specifically the Ebers Haus Green Salad, a fetching blend of field greens, tomatoes, spiced pecans, and a delightfully tart Dijon honey balsamic vinaigrette with parmesan cheese. A salad designed to whet rather than totally sate the appetite. Since August E's is a sushi house as well as a formal restaurant, we decided to attack a sushi roll appetizer next. The Jimmy Walker featured a shrimp tempura roll with cucumber, avocado, and caviar. Very good, but not quite as dyno-mite as I would have hoped; a bit more heat might just have punched this palate pleaser to the next level. Luckily, our entrees took the dining experience to that level. In most class establishments, getting the Fish Du Jour is often an excellent choice, and my wife's entree was very fresh fish, simply grilled and served with creamy marscapone whipped potatoes and sauteed sugar snap peas with herb butter cream. Light yet rich and very satisfying. My own choice was Beef Wellington, very rare tenderloin topped with pate and duxelles and served with more of those marscapone potatoes and seasonal mixed vegetables. Again, quite filling but light at the same time; chef Leu Savanh really knows how to sate his guests without stuffing them to the point where movement becomes difficult. We paired our dishes with Castle Rock Pinot Noir, a great food wine with plenty of berries and spice. Dessert was another knockout, flourless chocolate cake with chocolate sauce, more like cheesecake than cake cake, again, quite satisfying without being overwhelming.

Service was excellent and perfectly paced for a leisurely celebration that nonetheless moved along in timely fashion. Website is www.august-es.com, and reservations are recommended, particularly on busy evenings.

Overall, August E's Restaurant is another Fredericksburg establishment which, if it were moved a couple of hundred miles north, could easily give Dallas chefs a run for their money. Discover your postmodern place soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Delish Dish 4: Beef Brisket at Inman's BBQ Kitchen & Catering, Llano, TX

2010-02-15T13:34:00.000-08:00

Many years ago, a writer at Texas Monthly wrote an article in which he scoffed at the idea of Lockhart, Texas as the Holy Mecca of Barbecue. In his view, Llano barbecue was even better, delivering more of the true Texas campfire flavor and texture that made a diner feel like eating from a chuckwagon on the open range. Over the years, I've managed to venture several times to two of these three eateries, the justly-famous Coopers and the lesser-known Lairds. Both, particularly Coopers, deliver stellar barbecue, but I just felt that Louis Muellers in Taylor was a tiny bit better than both when it came to brisket. Recently, my lovely wife the Rock Star and I were enjoying a wine tasting at nearby Fall Creek Winery when the discourse happened to fall upon barbecue. The proprietors said they indeed enjoyed both Coopers and Lairds, but the best of all was Inman's Kitchen, a locals favorite that just happened to be the third place mentioned by Texas Monthly long ago. Since it was lunchtime, my wife and I determined to check out Inman's for ourselves, and duly made our way there when said tasting was completed.

Housed in a former hospital, Inman's may not have the delightful vibe of either Lairds rambling house or Coopers open dining room, but the welcome was quite warm. We placed our orders for two meat plates, the better to sample it all, including turkey breast, turkey sausage, ribs, and brisket. Inman's is justly famous for their turkey sausage, which delivered a peppery kick, and the ribs, turkey breast and sides, particularly coleslaw, were excellent as well. But the undeniable star of both plates was the brisket. One bite of that juicy, savory masterpiece gave me the campfire flavor and texture I was searching for, simultaneously tender and chewy, with an impossibly long, slow smoky finish that stayed on the tastebuds for a long time. In short, a brisket to rival anything I've had in Lockhart or Taylor, or at Coopers for that matter. Website is www.inmanskitchen.com if you should wish to journey to Llano, and finding Inman's is easy in this town of 3500; heading West, it's just down the street from Coopers, on the right. Find your own campfire fixin's tonight, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Delish Dish 3: Judias Verdes con Jamon Serrano en Salsa de Mostaza at Si Tapas

2010-02-07T11:59:00.000-08:00

We Americans like to think we have the best bar food in the world. Our wings, nachos, and cheese sticks certainly provide filling fare, and they are generally hearty and satisfying. However, other countries have intriguing pub grub as well, from English fish and chips to Irish corned beef and cabbage to Germany's renowned bratwurst. Surprisingly, Spain just might have them all beat with tapas. Varieties of dishes are endless, from cold cuts like chorizo and lomo (sausage and pork loin), to marinated olive plates and salad dishes such as Tomato al Ajillo (tomato garlic salad), to a procession of hot plates including Gambas al Ajillo (shrimp in garlic), Pincho Moruno (beef on skewer), and Pollo en Cerveza (chicken sauteed in beer sauce). All are devoured eagerly by hungry patrons, who use the smallish portions at Happy Hour to tide them over until dinnertime, or who may arrive a little later, order more, and use them to stand in for the evening meal itself. They also make a fabulous brunch repast, as my lovely wife the Rock Star and I found when we motored down to the State-Thomas area of Dallas one recent Sunday noontide.

Si Tapas Restaurant is housed proudly in a restored casa amongst the delightfully quaint streets of State-Thomas, and the equally delightful owner assured us our car would not be towed if we used the Notre Dame Cathedral parking lot. Dodging omnipresent construction equipment, we soon entered a little corner of Valencia, with ramshackle rooms such as the former garage where we were seated. Flamenco guitar music completed the illusion, and we soon commenced to order. All of the tapas we tried were excellent, but for my money the Judias Verdes con Jamon Serrano en Salsa de Mostaza was the standout. This dish translated into fresh, French-style green beans with Serrano ham, which is salt-cured and similar to Italian prosciutto, all served with righteously spiced mustard sauce which really fused the ham and green beans together into a completely new twist on a combination of two picnic standbyes. Unlike Easter dinner, this combination was light and refreshing, yet surprisingly hearty, as were all the tapas we tried that day. Service was very good as well, and the whole effect was like dining with an Iberian family in their private abode. Say yes to Si Tapas soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Delish Dish #2: Pizza at Cafe Gecko

2010-01-30T06:57:00.000-08:00

Oh, the pizza conundrum! Marriage is, of course, the ultimate conundrum and involves many challenges daily between my self and my spouse. For example, we both love pizza (who doesn't?), but we have two distinctly different pizza philosophies. My lovely wife the Rock Star grew up in an age when doubling or tripling meats and piling on tons of extra cheese was the norm. Unfortunately, this type of pie doesn't work for me; I prefer the old-time pizza parlor variety featuring balanced ingredients, great crust, and most of all, great sauce. Needless to say, it's like pulling hen's teeth to find a joint that will give us both what we want on one pie. Luckily, since we have discovered Cafe Gecko and cooks that will give us what we want, we are both quite content.

Although Cafe Gecko sports a few premade pizzas like the sweet and spicy Chichinitza and the seafood-friendly Pizza Del Mar, we usually opt to build our own. After numerous attempts that were only partially successful, we've hit upon a favorite that works for us: Double pepperoni with extra sauce. You see, Gecko puts enough cheese on their pizza that you don't need to order extra, and if you were to load a pizza with extra cheese, meat, and sauce, the resulting mess is usually a cumbersome disaster. Plus, the cooks here truly understand sauce and add just enough extra to give the pie a saucy flavor profile that is far from messy. Instead, the slightly sweet, spicy sauce plays perfectly with savory pepperoni and crunchy chewy crust. We seldom leave leftovers. Toss in a wonderfully convival atmosphere, and waitresses who know our drink preferences when we walk in, and you can see why we're regulars. Website is http://www.cafegecko.net/ if you care to investigate. Solve your own pizza conundrum today, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Delish Dish #1: Enchiladas Suizas at Veracruz Cafe

2010-01-23T07:57:00.000-08:00

"Few places have had a history as stormy as that of Veracruz, Mexico." So ring the stentorian tones of the website of Veracruz Cafe. This little bistro is located in the ever-evolving Bishop Arts District, which is a kind of Hispanic Deep Ellum, if you will, where newly-renovated buildings welcome the adventurous. I made my way to this quaint little corner of Oak Cliff in search of Enchiladas Suizas, a rich, creamy chicken concoction I first sampled in Austin many moons ago.

Veracruz Cafe sits next to Cafe Madrid in one of these refurbished gems, with plenty of free parking in the back if you just turn the corner and drive about twenty steps down the sidestreet. The ochre interior bespeaks Mexican Coastal, although the chairs are fairly straightforward. The Cafe's dish is part of its Authentic Blue Corn Enchiladas series, three largish tortillas stuffed with marinated chicken and topped with Huasteca red sauce, queso fundido, and cream sauce. I'm getting smarter in my adventuring and asked for an off-the-menu salsa. Happily, Veracruz Cafe has one of the best in town, and the molten, slightly oily picante fused the dish into a silken, caliente delight. In all, the Enchiladas Suizas at Veracruz Cafe were the stars of one of the better Mexican lunches I've had recently. Website is http://www.cafeveracruzdallas.com/, if you're suitably intrigued. Set off on your own adventure soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #58: Wilhelm Bergmann Eiswein

2010-01-16T07:07:00.001-08:00

Contrary to what many people believe, ice wines did not originate in Canada, although our northern neighbor crafts some very nice ones. The phenomenon dates back to the Romans, but Germany is said to have crafted the first modern ice wine in the late 18th century. Production really took off in Germany in the sixties and in Canada in the eightes leading to the iced vino craze of the past decade or so. Today, some twenty or so countries produce the frosty fetish, and the one we are taking under consideration today hails from the mother country of Germany herself, the Wilhelm Bergmann Eiswein.

The robe of the Wilhelm Bergmann Eiswein is minty straw and hay. The nose can be quite off-putting, reeking a bit too much of nail polish, old rags, and Gewurztraminer-like turpentine. The patient tippler, however, will be rewarded with meade and honey on the palate, finishing nicely with mown grass. Like all fortified wines, Bergmann Eiswein is best enjoyed after dinner, probably with a nice plate of nuts and/or cheese. Good luck finding a website; after sifting through three or four Googled pages, I gave up. Still, I know some stores in this area carry it, as I received my bottle as part of a belated Christmas present. Discover your own icy treat today, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #60: LAWRYS THE PRIME RIB

2010-01-09T08:00:00.000-08:00

Lawrence L Frank and Walter Van de Camp opened the original Lawry's The Prime Rib on La Cienega Boulevard in Beverly Hills in 1938. You might know Franks legacy better as the creator of Lawry's Seasoned Salt (and Pepper), cococted specially for the restaurant and an adornment of virtually every pantry in America since. Frank also designed the famous silver carts, which are brought tableside so the chef can personally cut the rib roast to suit the diner's exacting taste. Lawry's now sports ten locations worldwide, four in the States and six overseas. The Dallas location is actually now in Addison, having moved from Turtle Creek in the late nineties. My lovely wife the Rock Star has always loved prime rib since her Steak and Ale days (as a diner, not an employee). I've always had a penchant for prime myself, so it was one recent night that we decided to investigate Lawry's for ourselves.

The atmosphere at Lawry's is decidedly old-school, so much so that you will likely see as much silver atop the diner's heads as you will see it on the famous carts. Nonetheless, the dining room features white tablecloths, tall-back wooden chairs, and is guarded by lions, a combination that still connotes elegance. In fact, the decor is described as English Edwardian, but since Edward was not present to confirm this rumor, we must instead take it on faith.

Old school was in session with the menu as well, so we decided to make the most of it. My bride had seen the special program on the Travel Channel featuring Lawry's as one of Chicago's famed meat palaces, so she wanted to start with the famous spinning bowl salad. The presentation was indeed impressive, as our waitress spun the bowl, then raised the dressing bottle above her head to coat the greens from on high. Featuring crisp romaine, baby spinach, beets, chopped egg, croutons and iceberg, and topped with the dressing that reminded me of Green Goddess spiked with sherry, the salad was quite good if not as spectacular as the presentation. I fared much better with my shrimp cocktail: Five jumbo tiger prawns with a horseradish cocktail sauce that packed plenty of punch, reminding me of the days when a great steakhouse was the ultimate dining experience. The shrimp, salad, and all our dishes paired quite nicely with Greg Norman Shiraz, which added cabernet boldness and a touch of spice. In due course, the silver carts arrived. My wife and I have smaller appetites these days, however I wanted to try a bone-in cut, which is usually designated for the larger portions such as the Diamond Jim Brady. Luckily, our waitress assured us that they do have some smaller bone-in cuts, and that if one was available, we could certainly have it. My wife selected the California Cut, which was specified for lighter appetites. I assume they mean a portion designed more for a quarterback than a defensive lineman, because her slab was still quite large. I selected the traditional Lawry's Cut, and received a generous-sized portion with a bone. One bite told us instantly why Lawry's has managed to survive and thrive for over seventy years, because this was without question the most beefy tasting slab of prime I've ever tasted. The whipped cream horseradish added just the right touch of creamy burn to the meat, and the mashed potatoes were very good as well. Lawry's also serves Yorkshire pudding with every prime rib entree, which is not a dessert but rather a scorched batter meant to be served with drippings or gravy. The generous portions reminded me that Lawry's still hosts the Beef Bowl dinner to honor the two combatants in the Cotton Bowl every year, and in fact the Dallas cut is their largest cut, "as served to the Cotton Bowl teams." Ours was quite sufficient, thank you. After such a meal, how could we find room for dessert? However, we could not pass up a hot fudge sundae, made with Blue Bell ice cream and CC Brown's Hot Fudge Sauce, also sold by the restaurant if you wish to take home. After such a meal, we had no choice but to box up what was ours and leave.

Service was very accomodating and professional, as evidenced by Lawry's wish to honor my rib bone request. Website is http://www.lawrysonline.com/, if you wish to make reservations or order products.

In sum, we felt we graduated magna cum laude from Lawry's The Prime Rib, and we now understand its considerable reputation. Attend your own culinary old-school yourself, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR TOP TEN RESTAURANTS OF 2009

2010-01-02T07:42:00.000-08:00

I have to admit that I've been very lucky this year in many ways. My nonblogging writing activities have picked up steam considerably, plus I've gone to many top-notch restaurants in quest of the transcendent experience that is food at its best. Fortunately, I've not sought the Holy Grail alone, my lovely wife and partner-in-crime The Rock Star has accompanied me on all these journeys. When I consider this past year, the quality of truly superb restaurants has been staggering, and I look forward to many such endeavors in the New Year. So, again without furthur ado, here are the Food Czar Top Ten Restaurants of 2009.

MON AMI GABI, LAS VEGAS, NEVADA (Jan):

At Mon Ami Gabi, the steaks are quite thin, but the sauces are quite rich. The Steak Roquefort and the Steak Bearnaise are classic examples of French saucery, and I wish more Dallas restaurants served wafer-thin frites like Gabis. The late-nite dining hours are a bonus as well.

AL BIERNAT'S (Feb)

Our Valentine's repast continued our recent brunch tradition. If destinations are too crowded and expensive at night, how about a nice, relaxing brunch? My wife's giant Lobster and Scrambled Egg Burrito was absolutely stuffed with fresh seafood and crispy bacon, while my Sliced Filet with Crab and Asparagus boasted a swarthy bite of smoked tomato hollandaise. The tender medium-rare beef reflected the endless hours Al spent toiling away at The Palm before opening his own place.

MIGNON (June)

More fabulous French beef, with classic Prime Filet au Poivre prepared perfectly rare, and New York strip medium-rare with blue cheese and sherry reduction. After the main course, we were very wise indeed to save room for chocolate ganache cake.

CAFE ISTANBUL (June)

Turkish cuisine makes good use of the grill, and Terbiyeli Sis Kebap sported charbroiled lamb marinated in hot sauce and spice, guaranteed to appeal to peppery Texas palates. Kayisi Tatlisi, dried apricots filled with cream and served with walnuts, proved that light desserts can be very satisfying after a hearty meal.

CRAFT (June)

"Let the flavors speak for themselves," is an oft-heard, much-misunderstood cliche in the restaurant business. Chefs Tom Colicchio and Anthony Zappola truly understand this concept, with a brunchtime feast of medium-rare Craft Burger with white cheddar and applewood-smoked bacon and exquisite New York Strip Steak and Eggs. The wine list is very well chosen, and we spent as much time talking about the establishment's unique architecture as we did devouring our food.

STEVEN PYLES (Aug)

Steven Pyles is the once and future master of Southwestern cuisine, so why not enjoy a repast that showcased said mastery? Scallop and pork belly carnitas and red snapper in Thai red curry masa proved the evolving, adaptable nature of this cuisine to modern palates. Artisan breads such as blue cheese scone and potato foccacia are highlights, while desserts nearly stole the show with Mexican chocolate fondant and Deep Ellum goat's cheesecake. Himself was also onhand to meet and greet while making sure the food held up to his exacting standards.

PAPPAS BROS STEAKHOUSE (Aug)

Pappas Bros is often touted as the best steakhouse in Dallas. When former Dallas Morning News food writer Bill Addison was given a farewell party by his adoring colleagues, where do you think they dined? Perhaps they enjoyed the sensuous lobster bisque, the swarthy, char-broiled flatiron steak with triple peppercorn sauce or the dry-aged, prime New York strip that was both beefy and buttery in nature. Possibly they ended their feast with the tart lemon sorbet or the decadent chocolate peanut butter cake with chocolate ganache. If so, they truly dined as well as we on this hot August night.

FEARINGS (Sept)

My lovely wife and I were invited to this Ritzy hotspot as a part of the Go Texan celebration. For our efforts, we were rewarded with course after course of sheer bliss. Poblano shooters. "Million Dollar" Chicken Tortilla Soup. Barbecued Shrimp Taco. Peach BBQ Glazed Bobwhite Quail. Dublin Dr Pepper Braised Beef Short Ribs. English cut NilGai Antelope. Cheese courses. Matching wines and port. Finally, Fearings excellent coffee. One of the best meals we've had in 2009. Period.

COAST GLOBAL SEAFOOD (Sept)

Coast's Daily Excursion is a three-course delight offered during weekdays, and ours featured splendid Roasted Halibut and Julia Child favorite Atlantic Lemon Sole Meuniere. Desserts were a highlight, and the stunning view of the Bellagio-style fountain is always a special treat at night.

NAVAJO GRILL, FREDERICKSBURG, TEXAS (Dec)

The restored private house is a charmingly rambling setting for rustic fine dining, and the nutty, buttery trout and perfectly prepared filet made for a memorable celebration indeed. Corn soup was a sinfully rich concoction, made thoroughly Texan with pepper jack cheese and tortilla strips.

2009 Honorable Mention Worthy of Mention:

-Yolo's Mexican Grill, Las Vegas, Nevada (Jan)

Thus, I must stick a fork in 2009 and call it done. Possibly my finest year of dining bliss ever. Hopefully, 2010 will be equally well disposed. Discover your own dining bliss soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR TOP TEN NEIGHBORHOOD GEMS OF 2009

2009-12-26T08:05:00.000-08:00

Question: If you're dining out on a Friday or Saturday, where do you go if you're suddenly flush with cash? A Destination Restaurant? Perhaps. Breaking bread at these palaces certainly can make for some memorable evenings, plus they are good for stretching our palates. But what about Sunday through Thursday nights, or anytime your pockets are not bulging with bread? Where do you eat if you want to go out? Well, many of us turn to our favorite places close to home, the joints where the waitresses call you Honey (especially if they are old-school Texas establishments), or at least the waiter will recognize you and maybe even have your noshing habits memorized. During the past year, my lovely wife the Rock Star and I have been privileged to dine at many such places, sometimes by invitation, most often on our own dime. If we've had stellar experiences, then it is unimportant who pays. I'm going to write about it. If not, I won't. It's as simple as that. So, without furthur ado, here are the Food Czar Top Ten Neighborhood Gems (and honorable mentions) of 2009:

ZORBA'S GREEK CAFE (Jan)

Classic Greek dishes delivered in a lovely gem of a location, served by perpetually happy people. Plus Zorba's is BYOB. What's not to love?

RED'S PATIO GRILL (Mar)

From the Cowboy Meatloaf to the Montana Legend beef burgers to the Double Cheese Potato Cakes, Red's defines comfort food for 2009. As a bonus, they serve some of the best margaritas in town, not to mention tequila flights.

FINO'S ITALIAN BISTRO (Apr)

Every neighborhood should have at least one New Jersey or New York-style Italian joint, don't you think? Finos ups the ante with fast free delivery, and they are BYOB as well.

SCREEN DOOR RESTAURANT (May)

Speaking of upscale, Screen Door is all about Southern comfort food with class. The free-range chicken and lamb shank were marvelous, but the grits and black-eyed peas stole the show. Plus, the milk and cookies dessert is a wonderful twist on an old standby.

MATT'S RANCHO MARTINEZ (May)

Although he recently passed away, the spirit of Matt lives on in the Bob Armstrong Dip, famous chiles rellenos, and excellent Chicken Fried Steak Tampequeno Style served at his lovely Lakewood establishment.

FIN SUSHI & SAKE BAR (Sep)

The sushi is fresh and most beautifully plated, the space is gorgeous, and the staff is marvellously welcoming and attentive. Don't forget to try the sake boxes.

CAFE AMORE (Oct)

Another American Italian gem. My sister-in-law the Wild Thing has lived all over this great nation, and chooses BYOB Cafe Amore as her location for special celebrations.

EL RANCHITO (Oct)

Many places in Dallas tout top-notch Tex-Mex, but El Ranchito delivers, with savory caldo de res and substantial milanesa. This gem is one of the shining stars of the venerable Oak Cliff Mexican scene that deserves more support if it is to thrive and survive.

ALAMO SPRINGS CAFE (Nov)

Ten miles south of Fredericksburg and smack in the middle of nowhere, this tiny cafe offers one of the best cheeseburgers ever devised by the hand of Man. Don't believe me? Texas Monthly voted it the third-best cheeseburger in the entire state in their August 2009 issue.

MAGUIRES (Nov)

French bistros were some of the original neighborhood gems, and Maguire's chef was classically trained in La Belle France. As in all great French establishments, the beef at Maguires is treated with loving care, and at a price far less than many of the nearby steakhouses.

2009 Honorable Mentions Worthy of Mention:

-El Fogon (July)

-McSwiggans Irish Pub (Nov)

One final note: This list only covers establishments I've written about on this blog in 2009.
Needless to say, I'll be compiling a list of Top Ten Restaurants for 2009 very soon. Support your own neighborhood gems soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR TOP TEN WINES OF 2009

2009-12-19T07:50:00.000-08:00

Although it may seem premature to start my year-end reflection series, nonetheless I've decided to forge ahead. Looking back, it seems that every year I get to review wines that were better and better than the previous year's crop. My lovely wife and myself still spend most of our days tippling the cheaper quaffs, due to budget considerations, but I'm continually seeking better vinos, pushing the envelope more and more each year. So many wines, so little time. With all this folderol in mind, and without furthur whining, here are my Top Ten Wines of 2009:

PIPER-HEIDSICK BRUT CHAMPAGNE (Jan)

We rang in the New Year with this classic bubbly. One sip and you'll understand why it's been chosen to toast the calendar change year after year.

INWOOD ESTATES TEMPRANILLO-CABERNET (Feb)

For years, the rest of Texas has produced most of the award-winning Lone Star tipples. Now, it's time for the Metroplex to stand up and be counted.

VEUVE CLIQUOT PONSARDIN BRUT CHAMPAGNE (Mar)

Another time-tested sparkler from the first great winery to be run by a woman. If you get a chance, you should read her life story, which proves that determination can and should triumph over unwarranted convention.

MASI PINOT GRIGIO VERDUZZO MASIANCO (Apr)

If you're used to French or California bottles, the world of Italian wine can seem downright bewildering. This food-friendly delight is a great gateway into that world.

CROSS TIMBERS CABERNET SAUVIGNON (May)

While Dallas is just really getting its act together, Grapevine has been quietly producing quality bottles for years. (Yes, Virginia, Grapevine is located in the Cross Timbers region of Texas, while Dallas is in the Blackland Prairie and Fort Worth is in the Grand Prairie. Confused? It's true.)

14 HANDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON (May)

I seem to find many of my memorable wines from restaurant lists these days, which is no surprised since Wine and Spirits Magazine named this cab the fourteenth most popular wine by the glass.

CHALONE VINEYARD ESTATE PINOT NOIR (July)

One usually associates great pinots with the cool Pacific Northwest, rather than California. However, Chalone Vineyards is perched precariously in the Galvan Mountain Range, 1800 feet above the Salinas Valley. Moreover, it's located at the foot of an extinct volcano, which must do wonders for the terroir.

DRY CREEK VINEYARD DRY CHENIN BLANC (Aug)

I'm a product of San Antone and so is Central Market, brainchild of the HEB company that has been selling groceries to Texans since before most of us could walk. Needless to say, I sampled this dry pleaser at a Central Market tasting.

ELSA BIANCHI MALBEC (Sep)

A malbec that goes well with seafood? Really?? Yet, we paired this product with crab dip, shrimp bisque, and Julia Child's beloved sole meuniere, and this spirited red was more than equal to the task at hand.

FUQUA PINOT NOIR (Dec)

The boisterous and magnanamous Lee Foster Fuqua is producing the tipples that have all haute Dallas abuzz from his winery near Love Field.

Honorable Mentions:

-Rutini Trumpeter Mendoza Malbec-Syrah

-Oops Sauvignon Blanc

Again, I know it's early for such a compilation, but I promise that if I encounter any more memorable wines before year's end, I will keep invesitigating them and report any favorable results after the New Year. Start your own investigations soon, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Cellar Selection #7: Fuqua Pinot Noir

2009-12-11T06:55:00.000-08:00

Over the years, I've come to realize that many of our most talented and gifted people may be our most down-to-earth. Such is the case with Lee Foster Fuqua. A large, jovial man whose booming voice belies his broadcasting past, Lee Fuqua is currently crafting the wines that has all haute Dallas abuzz, yet he guides you around his Atwell road winery as if you are the only person that matters. Many of his best vinos are sold out at this time, but cellar-quality selections are still available, some at prices that you can afford even if the dove of prosperity has not smiled on you at present. Thankfully, one of his most food-friendly wines is still available for the thrifty shopper, and it just so happens that it's the quaff we are considering in todays post. For the record, I'm talking about the Fuqua Pinot Noir.

The robe of the Fuqua Pinot Noir is a rich, jewel-like magenta garnet. The nose is subtle and complex with spices such as cardamon and white pepper at the forefront. Luscious maraschino and Bing cherries and currants wash playfully over the palate, finishing crisply with light citrus. This wine is simply a joy to pair, and worked beautifully with both our New Jersey Italian entrees. This pinot had enough subtle spice to go with my orecchietta pasta with zucchini, broccoli, and sausage, yet also stood up well with my wife's simple dish of chicken parmigiana. Lee calls it his "cross-dresser" wine, and since his shop is located just a stone's throw from Oak Lawn, such a designation is quite appropriate. Website is http://www.fuquawines.com/, and if you come on by for a free tasting, he might just let you taste some of his over-the-top wildcat chardonnay, which if he bottles it will leave all other chards in shards. Discover your own haute wine soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR ROAD TRIP 9, PART II: NAVAJO GRILL, FREDERICKSBURG, TX

2009-12-05T12:20:00.000-08:00

One of Fredericksburg's endless list of charms is the fact that, for a small town, they certainly do have an impressive roster of big city amenities. These include an excellent live music scene, a wonderful, walkable downtown filled with people and action, and a burgeoning fine dining scene, with some establishments worthy of much larger places such as Dallas. In fact, we had need for just such an establishment, because we were celebrating yet another birthday (in our family, birthday season runs from August through December), and since we have long wanted to try the Navajo Grill, my lovely wife the Rock Star and I made the short trek from our bed and breakfast to the other end of Main Street one starry, starry night.

If you like a homey establishment, then it's virtually guaranteed that you will love Navajo Grill, which must have been a private residence in a prior incarnation. Three distinct dining rooms with wooden floors and wrought metal tables and chairs. Two separate patios, including a new covered one. An elegant, rambling structure where one room seems to lead naturally to the next. In short, the whole effect resembles nothing so much as Santa Fe in the Hill Country, if that makes any sense. We were seated immediately, and a very good waiter took charge of us almost at once.

These days, I often start my meals with soup, because I've learned that in fine dining establishments, most chefs take special pride in their potage. Accordingly, my bride and I began our repast with corn soup, a sinfully rich concoction of corn, pepper jack cheese, and tortilla chips. The quality of the soup told us immediately that our night of dining would be memorable. Indeed, such proved to be the case. My wife was in the mood for something fishy and the special that night happened to be trout, so she made her choice accordingly. To me, trout is one of the most underrated and frequently forgotten eating fish, and Navajo Grill's nutty yet buttery preparation showed that it deserves to regain popularity. The accompanying white cheddar grits and side greens pleased her as well, a simply elegant dish. My own choice was the filet mignon, perfectly prepared medium rare, stuffed with bleu cheese and served with excellent mashed potatoes and toothsome asparagus. I was also determined that we should enjoy Texas wine on this occasion and the Becker Claret matched very well with both our selections. All too soon, it was time to split a chocolate dessert souffle, and we took our satisfied leave.

In the previous sentence, I may have implied that service was rushed. Instead, the pace was Hill Country casual, which is typical of these parts, a welcome change from hectic Dallas. Website is http://www.navajogrill.com/, where you can learn about the history of this establishment and the charming family that runs it.

In sum, a most delightful experience, and I believe that Navajo Grill can hold its own with virtually any restaurant in Dallas. Visit soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR ROAD TRIP 9, PART I: ALAMO SPRINGS CAFE, FREDERICKSBURG, TEXAS

2009-11-28T06:47:00.000-08:00

Over the years, Texas Monthly magazine has helped my food writing more than any other source, plus given me hours of reading pleasure. Like all subscribers, I eagerly devour their Best Of issues, confident in the knowledge that they have really done their homework and have put together a quality list of delectable eateries. Their most recent such issue featured the best hamburgers in the entire Nation of Texas, and scanning the selections, I noted that one of their top choices was Alamo Springs Cafe, located near Fredericksburg, one of our favorite vacation spots. What's more, we were booked for a stay at our favorite bed and breakfast in town, and surely we could locate this place and find out for ourselves what all the fuss is about. So, after due consultation with my lovely wife the Rock Star, we made the drive ten miles south of Fredericksburg, near the Old Tunnel Wildlife Management Area where flying bats do play.

Once we entered the restaurant, we were heartily entranced by Alamo Springs Cafe and its genu-wine Texas retro decor. In appearance, it resembles a retrofitted wooden private house or small store, with wooden floors, smallish rooms, and plenty of signage featuring pithy sayings. Two employees were on duty that day, our sweet waitress/cashier, and Mike, the genial owner/chef. Warning: If you're in a Dallas hurry, you'd best leave your time anxieties back in the Metroplex and discover the wonder of Hill Country time. Here, people move as slow as they talk, and if you don't find the difference refreshing, then perhaps you're better off vacationing in New York or Houston.

Alamo Springs Cafe features several lunchtime options, and boasts of gourmet specials in the evenings, but we were here on a mission, so menus weren't needed. In due course, we were presented with the justly famous Alamo Springs cheeseburger, which proved every bit as large as the tantalizing Texas Monthly cover. As soon as it was placed down at our table, Mike came over to inspect and pronounced it perfectly medium rare as requested. Indeed it was. In Texas Monthly, Patricia Sharpe lamented the fact that many of the state's top burgers were gourmet, with toppings to match. By contrast, Alamo Springs cheeseburger was classically old-school in flavor and preparation, each bite yielding shards of silken, hearty beef flavor. We split one between the two of us, as it was quite large, and also split a large basket of crispy crunchy homemade potato chips. We paired our repast with very good iced tea, which is the national drink of Texas, and grabbed a couple of German beers from the cooler to enjoy on the patio. (Since Fredericksburg was settled by Germans, brews from the Old Country are widely available here.)

Service was leisurely paced, of course, and Mike came over to tell us a little about the history of his little venture. Seems he opened Alamo Springs as a cafe and general store awhile back, promising a menu that served some upscale dishes in the evenings, along with deli food. Basically, he put the cheeseburgers on the menu to keep the kids happy, but in the first days of operation, he noticed that he sold virtually nothing but burgers, so he instantly junked the deli and general store idea and tripled his order of hamburger meat. Alamo Springs has been successful ever since.

In short, Alamo Springs Cafe serves a cheeseburger well worthy of all the acclaim, and my lovely wife is already badgering me to go back. Discover your cheeseburger paradise soon, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #59: MAGUIRE'S RESTAURANT

2009-11-15T06:59:00.000-08:00

A restaurant entices with intrigueability, perhaps an unusual logo or interesting location, particularly so if it's one you pass by on a regular basis, and when you see it you exclaim, "That place looks interesting; I've always wanted to try it out!" But you continue to motor on, bent on achieving your appointed tasks, until one day curiosity gets the best of you and you determine to investigate. Maguires Restaurant, hard by the Tollway and Restaurant Row in North Dallas, is one such place, because I've always been intrigued by the logo and signage and because I've never been able to successfully figure out what kind of restaurant it is. Steakhouse? Bistro?? Upscale lounge??? Finally, spurred by a positive review from one of my colleagues and driven by the necessity of a birthday celebration. I loaded my lovely wife The Rock Star, her sister The Wild Thing, and their formidable mother The Momma into my conveyance and made the trip up Tollway one recent Saturday eve.

Atmospherically, Maguires is set up on the circular concept: A ring of booths on a sort of raised platform around the perimeter, interspersed with staff areas where waiters conduct their business, bisected by lines of tables and a central aisle. Stylish decor, not overly trendy or stuffy. We were seated by a window in the perimeter, where the energetic Joanie took charge of us.

At Joanie's insistence, we began our meal with the flatbread appetizer. Crispy sesame lavash with Buffalo chicken and sauce toppings, it was the perfect size for sharing and disappeared quickly. Breaking with convention, The Wild Thing decided to make a meal of starters with the tenderloin crostini, the baked, stuffed artichoke, and Maguires mixed greens salad. She let me try the tenderloin, a filet medallion with bearnaise. The menu promised melt-in-your-mouth goodness, and the crostini delivered, the meats silken bite playing perfectly with the tang of the bearnaise, and the crispness of the crostini. The mixed greens salad proved a delicate blend of bleu cheese, greens, apples, roasted pecans and Maguire's poppyseedish dressing. A nice, light prelude to the repast that followed. The Rock Star adored her massive, double-cut pork chop since it was prepared similar to pork tenderloin and not at all greasy, with excellent Southwest creamed corn, wilted spinach, and an unusual but effective champagne mustard seed gravy. Very nice, and not too dry. The Momma's request for a medium well done filet was rewarded with a medium well done filet. It was prepared to her liking and what more can be said? I love steak au poivre and was presented with a pepper-crusted filet perfectly medium rare as requested, sided by white mashed potatoes, toothsome asparagus spears, and cognac peppercorn sauce. While researching this post, I discovered that chef Brahmi was classically trained in his native France. That fact certainly showed in his beef treatment, as the beef was prepared with loving care. Throughout our lengthy stay, we washed our respective meals down with a good pairing pinot grigio, and very good claret, and an especially good bottle of Layer Cake Shiraz, which we will no doubt purchase for home consumption. Finally, we split a chocolate lava cake and took our leave.

Joanie proved quite attentive throughout the evening, and her enthusiasm was truly infectious.
Website is http://www.maguiresdallas.com/, if you're at all interested in that sort of thing.

Overall, a good time was had by all (there's a classic Texas saying), and we have definitely satisfied our curiosity about Maguires Restaurant and plan to return soon. Satisfy your own curiosity today, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Quickie Review #43: McSwiggans Irish Pub

2009-11-03T10:23:00.000-08:00

Irish pubs are some of the best and most fun establishments in the world. They make no bones about what you are there for (to drink, watch sports, and comingle with fellow pubbites) and deliver what you need accordingly. Every neighborhood should have one. My lovely wife the Rock Star and I have been making the drive for years to Lochrann's Irish Pub in downtown Frisco, and the Irish Rover Pub, which is a bit closer, but we not-so-secretly longed that someone would build one in our neighborhood. Well, our wait is finally over, as we now have our very own pub straight from Boston, McSwiggans Irish Pub.

Walking in (taking special care with the extra-heavy door as you enter), you will notice that McSwiggans wears its pub heart proudly on its sleeve with the authentic-looking decor featuring a forest of dark wood, blackboards featuring the numerous Irish beers on tap, and the expected profusion of flat-panel TVs. What you won't see is an excess of sit-down space; McSwiggans may hold 30-40 people tops and you may be hard-pressed to find a place to squat on weekend nights. Still, you may want to go there early for dinner and a pint (or three), as the food is quite good. Bangers and mash feature savory sausages straight from the Old Sod, and Shepherd's Pie is the ultimate comfort food, with warm ground beef and veggies under its whipped potato crust. Most recently, I sampled the Fish and Chips, which consists of Icelandic Haddock filets served in a crispy batter and accompanied by good steak fries, which went well with my Magic Hat and Murphys Irish Red ales, both on tap. (They serve the fish with tartar sauce, but also bring along a condiment caddy including malt vinegar, Tabasco, and Colemans and Dijon mustards.) My lovely wife the Rock Star is a fan of the Kobe sliders, which are served char-grilled to order (if you want pink in the middle, you get pink in the middle) on tiny brioche buns. Service is very accomodating, whether you sit at bar or booth, and McSwiggans opens early on the weekends to serve the Premier League, college, and NFL football fans who care to enter. (Needless to say, they are serious Red Sox and New England Patriot fans.) Website is www.mcswiggansirishpub.com. Discover your own swatch of the Old Sod soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #57: La Mano Mencia Roble

2009-10-30T09:52:00.000-07:00

In the all-consuming search for wines that won't bust my budget, I've learned to leave America behind at times and investigate the rich terroirs of such far-flung places as Argentina, South Africa, and Spain. Until recently, Rioja Spanish wine garnered all the press, but lately such stalwart seekers as Robert Parker have kept up the quest for other values from the Iberian peninsula. The astute Mr Parker has awarded 90 points to today's selection, and while I think that may be a tad generous, I still have to put forth my own recommendation on a value-conscious tipple of Espana, namely the La Mano Mencia Roble.

The Robe of the La Mano Mencio Roble is burgandy onyx, in other words, quite opaque until you swirl it a bit in the glass. The nose suggests dusky plum, cherry, and minerals. Black cherry and currant wash over the palate, finishing ever-so-slightly with mint. As you quaff, you'll probably note the similarities between mencia and cabernet franc; in fact, mencia was once thought to be distantly related, but that notion has been disproved with DNA testing. Mediterranean cuisine would be a natural match; spicy kabobs, gyros, and souvlaki would play well against La Mano's somewhat muted flavor profile. In an all-too-familiar turn of events, I could find no website, but I did discover some usable info at http://www.spiritofwine.blogspot.com/. Put forth your own recommendation soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #58: CAFE AMORE

2009-10-20T06:59:00.000-07:00

Celebration day. My lovely sister-in-law The Wild Thing has a new job, and most of her family and friends have descended upon Richardson to wish her well in her new endeavor. Many of the usual suspects in my previous posts were there: The Wild Thing, of course, her sister aka my lovely wife The Rock Star, her formidable mother The Momma, Beaners the nonstop niece and her husband, and a veritable plethora of lifelong friends too numerous to name. So, where did my sister-in-law want to go for her celebration brunch? The Mansion? The French Room?? Abacus??? None of the above. You see, despite her Troggs-inspired nickname, The Wild Thing is rather a simple sort of girl, and wanted a restaurant with a great, inexpensive food and homey ambiance. So it was that we piled ourselves into various and sundry conveyances and drove the few short blocks to Cafe Amore, an Italian restaurant that has often filled the bill for celebrations and such.

Speaking of places like The Mansion, if you want ultrachic, Art Deco-inspired decor and the like, you will not find it at Cafe Amore. Everything about this neighborhood gem speaks volumes of homespun, from the open brick kitchen to the rather simple scenes of Italianesque life plastered on the walls. We were quickly shown to a table for a dozen near the front of the establishment where we immediately engaged in copious conversation and leisurely menu perusal.

Leisurely is indeed the word of the day at Cafe Amore, and the decidedly slow service is one of our only ongoing quibbles with the restaurant. Our waitress proved quite capable throughout, yet it was obvious that she was assigned too many tables, probably half-a-dozen in addition to our party of eleven. Luckily, it was Sunday brunch, and none of us were in a hurry. The Wild Thing insisted that everyone start their repast with the Mozzarella and Tomato ala Caprese. We've had this appetizer on many occasions in the past and have always enjoyed the simple blending of flavors: fresh mozzarella, basil, fresh tomato, red onions, extra virgin olive oil and cracked black pepper pleased our crowd; oddly enough, I found it a bit drier than usual. One couple ordered the Seafood Fritte and urged me to try it. This was better, and the fried calamari and baby shrimps served with aoli constituted a simple pleasure, as it was not redolent of frying oil. I wondered for a moment why more restaurants don't serve this satisfying combination, but it was soon time to move on. Basic yeasty rolls with butter were brought, good for sopping up juices, a great pairing for the entrees to come. For our main courses, my wife and I decided on the Cremora preparation; hers with shrimp, mine with veal. Sauteed jumbo shrimps and veal scaloppini respectively were served with fresh mushrooms, green onions, and chopped tomatoes in a brandy cream sauce that was plate-licking good, the delicate cream bathing the tender meat and seafood with a light, gentle kiss. I wish I could tell you some of the other entrees we enjoyed, except that by this time both the wine and the conversation were freely flowing and my thoughts were engaged elsewhere. I can only report with accuracy that Beaners and her husband ordered something with mussels, because I remember eyeing them enviously, and that The Momma ordered lasagna because she always orders lasagna when dining Italian. This seems as good a time as any to tell you that Cafe Amore is BYOB, and that we took full advantage, which to me is an excellent selling point for this neighborhood gem. My wife and I concluded our repast with the Cappucino Pie, a coffee, ice cream, and pastry bomb that reminded us just how much we enjoy basic Italian desserts when done right. Again, I can't report on this course for anyone else, except that I kept hearing contented sighs of "heavenly tiramasu" emanating from the other end of the table.

Service improved throughout the course of the day, as lunchtime diners departed, and as noon bled into afternoon, no new ones took their places, so our waitress was better able to keep pace with the needs of our large party. No website per se, but you can go to http://www.allmenus.com/, which will give you the menu and at least some of the essentials of Cafe Amore.

Overall, Cafe Amore did an excellent job of providing great food and ambiance that served as the backdrop for The Wild Thing's celebration day. Stage your own party there yourself, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #57: EL RANCHITO RESTAURANT

2009-10-12T12:29:00.000-07:00

There's no doubt that I'm a proud Texan. I love the people, the atmosphere, and most of all, the cuisine. Yet, I once left the state for a couple of years and had to do without my beloved barbecue, Tex-Mex, and chicken-fried steak, and even though my destination city had its own culinary charms, most notably much better pizza than we had at the time in DFW, still I suffered serious withdrawal pangs. As you can probably tell, I've since moved back to the Lone Star State, and while I often harbor dreams of living in such wonderful places as Seattle or Las Vegas, I'm sure I would miss Texas dishes. But as I delve more and more into exploring the cuisines of other states and countries, I'm finding many similarities to our native specialties. For instance, do you know that while chicken-fried steak is in many ways uniquely Texan, it actually closely resembles dishes in other countries, such as German wiener schnitzel or Italian cottolette alla Milanese? In fact, milanese is a generic term that applies not only to the pride of Milan, Italy (hence the name), but also the breaded-and-fried beef, chicken or veal treat that is actually quite common in Europe and South America, not to mention Mexico. Therefore, to make a (very) long story short, I discovered that El Ranchito Restaurant in Oak Cliff serves one of the best milanesas I've ever encountered under any name. Unfortunately, my lovely wife the Rock Star was attending to other business when I pointed my vehicle and made the long journey south to Jefferson Street.

First off, you should know that parking in Oak Cliff can often be a tricky situation. Therefore I would suggest if you go there for lunch, you get there very early or late. I got there well before noon and the smallish lot was almost full. Luckily, one space was left. Upon entering, I found that there was no need to worry about finding an empty table, as El Ranchito is quite large. I was quickly seated within site of the in-house Torterilla Sanchez (the lovely lady who actually makes all the tortillas used by El Ranchito) where I began to peruse the colorful array of murals, fiesta decorations, and other trinkets.

In this case, I really did not peruse the menu, as I knew what I wanted. Mondays at lunchtime, El Ranchito serves milanesa, and I had determined in advance that I must have it. First, very good chips and salsa found their way to my table, the latter a red variety with just enough kiss of fire to make for good eating, but not so much that I had to reach for my ice tea glass every few seconds. Next I was presented with an excellent cup of caldo de res, with zucchini and other vegetables floating in a savory broth with fork-tender stew meat. A bowl of this soup would make a marvelous meal by itself, particularly on a cold day. Then, the daily special was brought, a substantial slab of milanesa pounded very thin and served under fried papas and alongside some of the best rice and beans I've encountered in this fair city. Coupled with the in-house-made corn and flour tortillas and a small salad, this lunch proved to be a Tex-Mex meal to remember, as I savored every luscious, slightly peppery bite of the fork-tender beef. I spooned on salsa instead of cream gravy and noticed how easily the breading melted away at my touch. Soon enough, I boxed my leftovers and left.

Service was quite nice and accomodating, and I noticed a great variety of patrons, from families to business partners to solo diners. Website is http://www.elranchito-dallas.com/, and I fully intend to return to try some of their more exotic fare such as cabrito.

Overall, I think that El Ranchito Restaurant served me one of the best lunches I've had all year, and at about ten dollars for all that food, one of the best bargains as well. Discover your own reason to stay in Texas soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #56: Oops Sauvignon Blanc

2009-10-07T07:51:00.000-07:00

Bordeaux has long been recognized as one of the worlds premier wine growing regions. Six noble grapes established its reputation as a haven for great red wines: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Carmenere. Sadly, the phylloxera aphid attack in the 1860's wiped out the great grapes, and while the others were replanted with the help of Texas root stock, only the Carmenere could not be resurrected, so it is rarely found in Bordeaux today. Luckily, Carmenere had been sucessfully transplanted to Chile, where it thrived so well that it was mistaken for Merlot. Then, in 1994, viticulturist Jean-Michel Boursiquit discovered the grape deception. Oops! Carmenere contines to make great wines today, sometimes bottled solo, but more often used as a blending grape, such as in this affordable little quaff we are considering today, the Oops Sauvignon Blanc.

The robe of the Oops Sauvignon Blanc is pale gold with touches of peach. The nose suggests many citrus fruits, tangerines and nectarines, and a whisp of minerals. The taste suggests some of a typical sauvignon blanc's grassiness, but more complex and rounded, with parsley and clove thrown in, and resolves in a peachy finish. This blanc would be equallly at home with picnic foods such as ham as well as the more usual seafood, particularly fresh fish. Website is http://www.oopswines.com/, where you can read the entire history of Carmenere on its wordy label. Discover your own happy wine mistake soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Adventures in Tasting #3: Fearing's Restaurant

2009-09-29T06:48:00.000-07:00

Dean Fearing. Rock Star chef. One of the original Gang of Five who basically sat down in a kitchen over the course of several evenings with fellow chefs and food writers Stephan Pyles, Anne Greer McCann, Avner Samuel, and Robert Del Grande and, in an Algonquin Round Table, Rat Pack style summit meeting, pretty much invented Southwestern Cuisine. Winner of more food and cooking awards than you can shake a stick at. The man who elevated lobster tacos and chicken tortilla soup to an art form. Recently, I was invited to dine at his rather new Ritz-Carlton establishment as a part of the Go Texan week celebration, and since my lovely wife is also known as The Rock Star, I knew she should be included in the festivities. So it was with high hopes and eager palates that we motored down the tollway one recent evening to Fearings Restaurant, near where uptown meets downtown and shakes hands.

After leaving our car with the valet (How can you not valet park at the Ritz-Carlton?), we were guided through the stately hotel lobby to Fearings endless series of bars and dining rooms. The main room with its open kitchen beckoned, but we heard the word "patio" and knew our choice had been made. After all, it was a crisp Fall evening with temperatures in the 70's, and Fearings patio resembles a lush English garden, so we quickened our step and were soon seated in a prime spot to begin our usual menu perusal ritual.

Actually, not too much perusal was needed on this evening as we were presented with the tasting menu. We started with an amuse bouche of a poblano shooter, which tasted just like a chili relleno in a shot glass. Next, Dean's "million-dollar baby" chicken tortilla soup, paired with Seven Hills Riesling. The acidic-crisp sweetness of the wine offset the tomatoey bite of the soup perfectly. Then, the Barbecued Shrimp Taco, loaded with sweet baby shrimp and Southwestern zing, played off against a Bret Brothers Pouilly Vinzelles, a thankfully-unoaked chardonnay that was quite up to the task. After that came the Peach Barbecue Glazed Bob White Quail (from Texas, of course, as this was a celebration of local products), served with an iceberg wedge and Cider Braised Bacon, which turned out to be pork belly. Just a whisper of peach sweetness offset the quail and bacon nicely, with help from the Zeni Teroldengo Trentino, a varietal not usually planted, and one which added a nice wisp of smoke to the dish. At this point, we went full throttle with the Dublin Doctor Pepper Braised Short Ribs, brushed with just enough old-fashioned soft drink goodness to remind me of my beloved grandmothers Coke salad. Most often, beef short ribs are not a favorite of mine because they are too tough, these were braised into fall-off-the-bone submission and presented to us with Robert Foley Charbono, another vino made from an uncommon varietal. Already, we had eaten one of the best meals of our lives, then we were presented with the crowning touch: English Cut NilGai Antelope on Jalapeno Wild Game "Bangers and Mash", the spicy bite of sausage matching beautifully with the antelope's lean lushness. We were equally pleased to see an old friend poured with this dish, the Inwood Estates Texas Tempranillo-Cabernet, which proved to be the highlight pairing of the evening. (Nice to see the Texas tipples giving the boys from Napa and Washington state a run for their money.) Then, like all fine establishments, Fearings presented us with a cheese course, San Pedro cheese from Lucky Layla Farms in Plano, matched with Gruet Brut Rose. Finally, sweet relief in dessert in the form of a warm blueberry crisp with vanilla ice cream, and a fried lemon pie that should make all state fairgoers jealous, and another wine highlight, Quinta Do Noval Silval port. We finished up with several cups of Fearings excellent coffee and a vow to visit again soon.

Throughout our evening, we were assisted by a veritable army of waiters and graced with a visit from The Man Himself. In particular, baby-faced Wine Captain Jeff Bradley stood out for his enthusiasm for life, his job, and food and wine in general. He will go far in this business. Website is http://www.fearingsrestaurant.com/. Once again, the Go Texan website is http://www.gotexan.org/, and you still have the rest of this week to take advantage.

In sum, if this was not our best meal of the year, rest assured that it is firmly placed at or near the top of a very short list. Conduct your own tasting soon.

GO TEXAN!

Adventures in Tasting #2: Blue Mesa Grill

2009-09-28T12:12:00.000-07:00

Let's face it: I'm a proud Texan. I believe that our country of Texas is a special place, and that anything I can do to advance our local food and wine purveyors will benefit us all in the long run. Texas has a long history of great food and wines, but the secret to continued success is to always improve upon what we've got. So, when a lovely lady contacted me on behalf of the Go Texan non-profit organization and asked if I could be of assistance, I was quick to respond. Sadly, my usual partner in crime, my lovely wife the Rock Star had a scheduling conflict and could not make the journey with me, therefore, I dutifully hitched up my pants and drove to the wilds of northernmost Plano, bent on exploring the flavors of Blue Mesa Grill.

If you've spent any time in Dallas whatsoever, you know about Blue Mesa, and have probably had occasion to dine there in the past, for they are rather famous, particularly for their Sunday Brunch. The north Plano location overlooks a pretty fountain, and I was shown through their rather spacious postmodern interior to a prime view. In short order, I was handed a menu, and my delightful waitress explained that for each purchase of a Go Texan entree from the special menu, a portion of the proceeds will be donated to area food banks. While I was thus perusing, a bowl of sweet potato chips, tortilla chips, and two kinds of salsa were brought for munching purposes. I particularly enjoyed the rich, full-flavored brownish salsa and the oh-so-slightly sweet potato chips, which resembled plantain chips in flavor and texture, and washed both down with passionfruit tea. In due course my entree appeared: Baja Shrimp, wrapped in bacon and fired on the grill, arrived atop rice and was served with delicious, smoky black beans, pico de gallo, and mixed seasonal vegetables including, summer squash, tomatoes, and onions. I augmented the creamy, garlicky dipping sauce with salsa and really liked how they helped bring out the flavor of the shrimp and bacon, and I would be very happy to have the seasonal vegetables alongside any entree, as they are too often treated as an afterthought. At Blue Mesa, they are good enough to stand alone. I declined dessert and took my leftovers and an extra cup of tea home, as I had really enjoyed its fruity flavor. Websites are http://www.bluemesagrill.com/ for Blue Mesa Grill and http://www.gotexan.org/ for the Go Texan Movement, which this year runs through Friday, October 2nd so you have a few days left to enjoy it.

GO TEXAN!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #56: COAST GLOBAL SEAFOOD

2009-09-22T06:34:00.000-07:00

When do you celebrate special occasions? It seems like most people wait until prime time (7-9 PM) on Friday and Saturday nights and make reservations at their favorite restaurants accordingly. However, I've found that it pays to remember that just like trying to fly out of the airport between 3-6 PM on Friday afternoons before a Monday holiday, everyone else is trying to do the same thing at the same time and therefore chaos may ensue. So, why not try to plan your celebration a little earlier, say 6:30, or better still, on a weeknight? That way, you're much less likely to encounter the "churn and burn" syndrome that can overtake even the best and most gracious of establishments at peak times. So it was that when my lovely wife the Rock Star and myself had just such an occasion to celebrate this past week, we made plans accordingly and drove to Coast Global Seafood in the burgeoning Shops at Legacy one recent Monday eve.

The interior of Coast Global Seafood is soft whites and beige, with touches of wood and splashes of color. Art work, glass fixtures, and what appears to be a large reddish screen of plankton run amok dominate the dining rooms. Whether you choose to sit inside or out, please do yourself a favor and make sure that you get a great view of the Bellagio-style fountain in the center of Legacy's drive. Just like Old Faithful or the real Bellagio in Las Vegas, this fountain is guaranteed to perform on cue, delighting children and adults alike who it seems are always gathered nearby to watch.

Some of us with long memories and longer lifespans may remember when it was virtually impossible to get good, fresh seafood in Dallas. That has changed in the last few years with the proliferation of sushi bars and the demand for something other than fried shellfish. Our delightful waitress steered us toward the Daily Excursion special on the menu, a three course prix fixe bargain that is only available during the week. (Herein lies another advantage of off-peak dining: Better prices.) My lovely bride decided to begin her repast with the Creamy Green Chili Crab Dip. Excellent balance of flavors with just a touch of spice, although the accompanying tortilla chips tasted somewhat stale. I started with the Creamy Shrimp Bisque, with chive creme fraiche, so it was quite the creamy beginning for me as well. Again, a very good soup, but it could have used a bit of heat to offset the silken texture, and I was beginning to worry that maybe this was just another very good establishment in a city that needs great ones. However, the best was yet to come. My entree was the dish that helped set Julia Child's feet firmly planted on the road to greatness: Atlantic Lemon Sole Meuniere, here prepared with Meyer lemon and French butter sauce and served with fingerling potatoes. Each bite of this sweet silken seafood reminded me why this dish has stood the test of time for decades and made me understand what the hype for this place was all about. My wife had the Roasted Halibut atop sweet corn, cherry tomatoes, and smoked bacon. This dish succeeds when the fish is fresh, and roasting it brought out all the cakelike texture and flavor for which halibut is famous. In short, she adored it. For dessert, she was glad she had chosen to end with a simple Mixed Berry Cobbler with vanilla ice cream, which brought her back down to earth nicely. I concluded with chocolate, specifically the Chocolate-Espresso Profiteroles, an ice-cream-filled cream puff that deftly wove cocoa and hazelnut tastes into a satisfying concluding tapestry of flavor.

Our waitress enthusiastically assisted us throughout the evening, helping to steer us toward the Hess Sauvignon Blanc and the Elsa Bianchi Malbec which became our partners for the night's feasting. Website is http://www.coastglobalseafood.com/, where you will notice that they've recently expanded their hours to include lunch.

Overall, we concluded that Coast Global Seafood is indeed worthy of special occasion status, whether you chose to dine during quiet weeknight or more lively weekend evenings. Set sail on your own excursion soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #55: Elsa Bianchi Malbec

2009-09-15T06:50:00.001-07:00

I must admit that every time I try to pair malbec with food, I'm constantly amazed by its versatility. Oh sure, like most wine lovers, I really appreciate a good cabernet sauvignon, but for the most part, you know what foods cab will pair with (red meat, steaks, some game, BBQ). Similarly, you know that sauvignon blanc is pretty dependable with seafood, particularly fresh fish, and that chenin blanc is the perfect summer picnic wine. But lately, it seems that whenever I uncork a good malbec, it seems I find a new dish to go with it. Malbec with seafood? Who would have guessed?? However, if you have just the right wine with just the right amount of fruit and suppleness, you might be surprised at the result, as I was last night when I found a great vino to go with my fish, the Elsa Bianchi Malbec.

The robe of the Elsa Bianchi Malbec is black cherry cola. The nose suggests all sorts of berries: here a whiff of black, there a scent of blue. Vanilla, more berries, and plums play tag with your palate, with a surprising finish of Delaware Punch. I paired this little malbec with crab dip, shrimp bisque, and sole meuniere, and it stood up to all three dishes, and was particularly playful with the brown butter notes of the sole. Julia Child once described her first meal in Rouen of sole meuniere as a revelation; wonder if she would have found this malbec to be a soul pleaser as well. I googled for an Elsa Bianchi winery website in vain; but found some good info at http://www.pullthecorkout.com/, and you might drop in there for a virtual visit also. Be surprised with Elsa Bianchi Malbec yourself, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #55: FIN SUSHI & SAKE BAR & RESTAURANT

2009-09-07T12:58:00.000-07:00

Neighborhood gems. What would the Dallas dining scene be without them? Woefully incomplete in my book. Sure, I know that both of my readers would love the thought of being able to dine at Stephan Pyles or Pappas Bros every week, if not every night. However, there are certain economic realities that most of us face, which is why Restaurant Week continues to thrive and expand every year. Besides, do you really relish the thought of driving to a destination restaurant every night of the week? I thought so. Most of us prefer to spend the bulk of our time searching for places close to home that serve excellent food and a measure of comfort in realizing that the drive home will not be a long one. Unfortunately, suburbia still continues to be dominated by chains, which are usually more wallet-friendly than palate-pleasing. Thus, it is exciting news indeed when a restaurant the quality of Fin Sushi & Sake Bar opens so close to mi casa, and my lovely wife the Rock Star and myself have been eagerly awaiting the arrival of the Now Open sign on its exterior. When it finally arrived, you can rest assured that we lost little time in judging the finished result for ourselves.

One caveat, however, before we continue. As of this writing, while the restaurant itself is indeed finished inside and out, construction on the nearby streets may be taking place. Not to mention the fact that there is no direct entrance from Windhaven and you will have to turn down the next side street heading west from the Tollway and drive around the back to find Fin. Press on, however, for once you find it, I believe you might agree that the results are worth the effort. Inside, you will most likely be greeted enthusiastically by the sushi chefs, as their domain is immediately to the left of the main entrance, while a faux-ice bar presided over by the genial Gaylan awaits you on the right. The interior is quite striking and the Japanese pop music will no doubt be pumping over the sound system. On our latest visit, we were seated on the patio which is an option to consider in the cooler fall evenings in the coming months.

Let me just begin my culinary assessment of Fin Sushi & Sake Bar by noting that the chefs plate their food quite marvelously indeed, and my beautiful bride was frequently taking photos with her trusty phone camera, as it was all quite lovely. There are, of course, many different types of dishes available at Fin, but my wife and myself are fresh fish fiends, and with the expansive fill-in-the-blank sushi form staring us quite boldly in the face, we felt as if we had no other choice. We began our most recent repast with Scottish smoked salmon sashimi eagerly touted by our waitress. Very fresh, at least to my tastebuds, and delightfully washed down by both Kirin Light beer and the nutty, warm house sake. (I must confess I'm becoming more and more of a fan of the rice wine brew these days, and I really must attend a sake tasting soon to broaden my horizons.) As I suggested earlier, budget considerations played a part in this evening's feast, but luckily the portions at Fin are rather generous, so we were quite sated by the sashimi and by the Tornado Roll which followed in due course. Tempura-fried and consisting of sumptuous yellowtail, eel, and fresh jalapenos (which were served on the side at my wife's request), this roll was one of the best I've had all year, and I look forward to future creations of the eager chefs. On this night, an additional round of brew took the place of dessert quite nicely, thank you.

Service is very attentive, and Gaylan the bartender even pitched in to make sure we had plenty of water. Unfortunately, he also confirmed that their website is still a work in progress; the URL will be www.finsakebar.com, but if you log on, it may or may not be fully operational at this time. More good news, however, is the fact that Fin is open until 2am on weekends, should you need a latenight fish fix.

Overall, Fin Sushi & Sake Bar and Restaurant is certainly worthy of neighborhood gem status, and just might pay dividends for you if you care to drive in from hither and yon. Sample Fin's pretty-as-a-picture sushi soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Go Texan Restaurant Round-Up Sept 28 - Oct 2nd: More News

2009-09-01T06:52:00.000-07:00

I really want to help Texas restaurants and wineries, so once again I'm breaking my reviews- only vow to write about the Go Texan Restaurant Round-Up which is set for the week of Monday, September 28 and runs through Friday, October 2nd. More than 200 restaurants are participating statewide, offering fixed-priced meals spotlighting Texas foods and wines, with proceeds benefitting food banks, similar to Restaurant Week.

Here in the Metroplex, the list of participants is growing steadily and currently includes such stalwarts as Pappas Bros Steakhouse, Eddie V's in Ft Worth, Fearings, Sullivans, Love & War in Texas, and Blue Mesa Grill. Their proposed menus look positively appetizing. For instance, Eddie V's is offering gulf red snapper, Texas gulf black grouper, and Texas tomato and fresh mozzarella salad, while Fearings is featuring Mesquite-grilled Nigali antelope from South Texas on basil pepito pesto with Texas hierloom tomatoes, shaved vella dry jack, and barbecued field peas. Indeed, how can you resist?

Again, here's the website for all the info:

http://www.gotexan.org/restaurantroundup/

GO TEXAN!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #54: STEPHAN PYLES RESTAURANT

2009-08-28T07:50:00.000-07:00

Amidst all the hoopla, shouting, and all-around carry-on about this year's Restaurant Week, I've been hearing a few whispers of disappointment. Apparently, some restauranteurs are using the Churn and Burn approach to get through the week, turning over their tables as fast as possible in their quest for profit. While Steve Dublanica of Waiter Rant fame and other industry professionals have confirmed that this can indeed be the case on such high-pressure holidays as Mothers Day and Valentines Day, I submit that Restaurant Week should be different. True, there are still going to be a lot of bad tippers and bargain-shoppers out there looking for a five-star experience, and there's really nothing to be done about such folk. However, these weeks should be retitled Restaurant Showcase Weeks because this presents new opportunities for an establishment to make customers for life out of curious newbies. Happily, I can report that Stephan Pyles Restaurant was quite up to the challenge, at least as far as our experience was concerned, and we will definitely be back.

Atmosphere? Well, rather than use my own words, please allow me to quote from the restaurant's own website at http://www.stephanpyles.com/: "(The design) sensually melds ultra-modern geometric shapes in metal and wood with vivid regional accents--Southwestern sunset and desert colors, stacked Texas flagstone and terra-cotta brick." There, I couldn't have said it any better myself. Walking in, my lovely wife the Rock Star and I immediately saw something that put our minds at ease; there in the open kitchen was The Man Himself, sampling dishes and directing traffic. Coupled with the warm welcome we had received from the staff, we knew we were likely in for a very special evening.

We were right. My beautiful bride began her repast with the local heirloom tomato salad. Tart and tangy with a touch of sweetness, she adored it even though she was perplexed by the balsamic gelee. No matter, it was a successful dish. For myself, I was determined to sample the dishes which I felt were the most South-of-the-border in nature, so I stared with the scallop and pork belly carnitas. The scallop was properly charred and the belly had lots of bacony flavor, so this starter worked quite nicely, particularly when paired with the delightfully unoaked Catena chardonnay. On our most recent trip to Central Market, we were careful to pick up copies of their Fourth Course certificate, so we were primed and ready for the Red Snapper in Thai-red curry masa, paired with Van Duzer Estate Pinot Noir. I was happy to see that chef is not afraid to served red wine with fish, and this slightly spicy snapper whetted my appetite to see what he could do with it as an entree. In fact, my wife's entree of pan-seared salmon proved no match for the snappy fourth course; although it was sided by very good black beans and corn griddle cakes, it was a somewhat uninspired choice, and I think that restaurants would do well to start pushing snapper and trout, the seafood stars of my youth. My own choice fared somewhat better: the wood-fired rotisserie chicken was full of juicy flavor, particularly the crackly skin, and the accompanying tamale was quite tasty if a tad dry. Again, two excellent pairings: the Latour Domaine Valmoissine Pinot Noir and the Morgan Cotes du Crows Syrah-Grenach (a blend I love dearly, I must confess). By the by, forgive me for not mentioning this sooner, but the tiny artisan breads served throughout were some of the best in town; my wife positively swooned over the potato foccacia, while my own favorite was the blue cheese scone. Simply marvelous. Dessert was another highlight: Mexican chocolate fondant rich with caramel and Kahlua crema, while my bride fell in love with the Deep Ellum goat's (cheese) cheesecake served over cherries jubilee, and stated that she wanted to have cheesecake prepared in precisely that fashion forthwith.

Service was delightfully paced and our waiter was properly apologetic when he had to leave us for extended periods to attend to the large party dining nearby. The Man Himself stopped by to wish us well and was quite nice, although he seemed rather perplexed when I informed him that I chose the most quintessentially Southwestern dishes for my meal. Since he is a pioneer of the genre, and all the cuisine that night reflected Southwestern influences in some form or fashion, I'm not surprised by his confusion. Again, the website is http://www.stephanpyles.com/, and we long to return some day for ceviche and cocktails.

In sum, we were two happy campers for our Restaurant Week choices, and find it hard to choose which was better. Needless to say, we'll be back to both. Discover your inner Southwesterner soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #53: PAPPAS BROS STEAKHOUSE

2009-08-18T06:30:00.000-07:00

What constitutes the best? When it comes to restaurants, most people would immediately say "great food". Others would put service or atmosphere a little higher on the list. May I offer another consideration? Attitude. Treat all customers as important, regardless of their dress or financial or celebrity status. Oh sure, we all know that anyone with a black American Express card or name-droppable name may get better treatment than the average Joe, and I for one have no problem with that. My simple request: Don't forget about me or treat me as if I'm not here. I'll never forget many years ago traveling to a well-known restaurant on Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco, the kind where all the waiters wear tuxedos. My family was dressed in touristy clothes, myself in T-shirt and shorts. Still, we were treated like royalty. I've never forgotten that night, and I still often use it as an example that to be recognized as the best, a restaurant must always remember that every guest is important. In this regard, I'm happy to report that Pappas Bros Steakhouse treated my lovely wife the Rock Star and myself like first-class citizens, even though we were KRLD Restaurant Week guests, and that the food, service, and decor all played a part in delivering one of my most memorable meals of the year.

I've seen reports that describe Pappas Bros atmosphere as clubby and masculine, befitting a traditional steakhouse. My report is that yes, it is very much like a steakhouse, with the requisite woods and black chairs and things, but that the plum booths, yellow circular columns, white ceiling, and plants soften the look somewhat. Although the place was about half-full when we arrived, it filled up nicely as we continued to dine. Such is the power of Restaurant Week to fill such a good-size establishment on a Monday evening in the dog days of summer. (The guests may or may not have been regulars, but my lovely bride was quick to note that these people did not have the look of expense-account diners.)

When dining during Restaurant Week, I've always felt that it pays to take careful notice if the establishment offers wine pairings and that if they are fairly priced, you should take advantage. They were, and we did. We started by sharing the Central Market fourth course, a silky, sensuous lobster bisque with good-size floating chunks. I knew right away that we were in for a special night. For her next course , my bride chose the house salad, which was distinguished by a supremely tart vinagrette dressing and full rashers of bacon on top. Quite lovely, even though said bacon was a tad undercooked for my crispy-loving wife. Mine was the Caesar Salad, and while I felt anchovies might have made it even better, still the fact that premium Parmigano-Reggiano cheese sat astride the leaves of lettuce made for one superbly delicious salad. (If that wasn't PR cheese, I'll eat my hatte!) These were paired with Rocca Pinot Grigio from Italy, which added the slightest whisper of lemony sweetness. On to the main course. My baby loves beef and since she had first dibs, she declared that the char-broiled flatiron steak medium-rare would be a perfect fit for her on this night. (At the risk of sounding sexist, there is no law that says that ladies have to order fish or chicken in a steakhouse. I've checked.) Served with a rich, triple-peppercorn sauce and blue-cheese potatoes, this dish was positively swarthy in its robust appeal. (I know because she actually let me have a taste. She does that sometime.) For myself, I've found that at premier steakhouses, rare beef is the best way to go, and the dry-aged, prime New York strip was both beefy and buttery, clearly not needing an extra adornment of sauce. Sided with excellent mashed potatoes, this dish sated my taste buds quickly, an indication of its high quality. Pappas Bros paired all beef entrees with the Finca El Portilla Syrah from Argentina, a very wise choice which met the needs of both palate and price point quite well, thank you. Finally my wife finished up with a nicely tart lemon sorbet, while she inveigled me into spending $5 extra for the chocolate peanut butter cake with chocolate ganache just so she could have a bite. Garnished with real pieces of peanut brittle, this dessert was so sublime that the accompanying glass of Moscato d'Asti Sarocco was almost unnecessary.

Service was quite excellent as well, attentive as needed but not intrusive, and in no way were we made to feel like second-class citizens. Website is www.pappasbros.com, where you will note that Restaurant Week is prominently advertised, proof of the restaurant's deep commitment to hospitality for all.

In all, what can I say? Again, one of the best meals of the year, and my wife and I will definitely be back, reinforcing the idea that Restauant Week serves as a spotlighting showcase for participating establishments, not to mentioned its espoused charitable function. (I would feel remiss if I did not mention the latter, as RW raises a lot of money for worthy causes The North Texas Food Bank and the Lena Pope Home.) Discover your own Restaurant Week nirvana soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #54: Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Chenin Blanc

2009-08-10T13:31:00.000-07:00

I'm so happy. My lovely wife the Rock Star has rediscovered the joy of cooking. Not the age-old kitchen-staple cookbook, but instead the real pleasure that can only come from preparing your own meals and cooking superbly. You see, my favorite gal has never liked her own cooking. No matter that everyone else frequently raved about it; according to her, all she could taste in her dishes were the flaws of imperfection. So, since I'm her number one fan, and since I'm an alleged food writer myself, I cannot tell you how deeply it moves me that she has rediscovered culinary passion for her own preparations. Recently, we've taken to cruising thru Central Market once a week looking for fresh meat or fish that she can prepare that night. Just yesterday, we were making the rounds and had just retrieved a lovely Yukon River Keta salmon filet from the in-store fishmonger, when lo and behold, we entered the wine section and spotted a lovely miss with tasting samples. We dutifully tried what she was pouring, then as we were ready to leave, she confided, "If you think these were good, you should have tried the Dry Creek Chenin Blanc we were serving yesterday!" Since we adore good chenin blanc, and since we were in possession of fresh fish, we thought that nothing would go better, and so that very night tried the wine that both she and her customers had been raving about just the day before, the Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Chenin Blanc.

The robe of the Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Chenin Blanc is citrine blended with pale peridot. The nose is most definitely dry minerals with a faintly floral essence. Tropical fruits, apricots, and peaches ply for the palate's attention, finishing with the slightest touch of mango. This deliciously dry tipple paired very well with our salmon, which had been marinated for hours in Meyer lemon and zesty spice rub; without these additions, the pairing would not have worked nearly as well. Website is http://www.drycreekvineyard.com/, where you will note that the previous vintage was rated a Top Value by Wine Spectator magazine. Descover your inner chef soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Quickie Review #42: Cobb Switch Barbecue

2009-08-03T13:49:00.001-07:00

Neighborliness is a time-honored Texas tradition, yet will only take you so far in the increasingly crowded world of Dallas restaurants. When I first read about the lofty pedigrees of those involved with the new Cobb Switch Barbecue in Carrollton, my hopes soared that maybe we would finally gain an establishment equal to Louis Muellers or Coopers in Central Texas. Failing that, maybe their bbq would at least be as good as Hard Eight's or Rudy's, two of the better practicioners of the art in the Metroplex. Sadly, my lovely wife the Rock Star and I must both concur that Cobb Switch isn't even as good as the local chains, much less the sainted denizens of Taylor and Llano.

Housed in a ramshackle building in a location that has clearly seen better days, Cobb Switch is all about being family friendly. The welcomes from countermen and family servers are all genuine, and they work hard to give you everything you need. Also some dishes are quite good, particularly the cheesy potato casserole and the grilled-to-order Texas toast. However, there is no evidence of a wood fire in use, so I must concur that the rumors I've heard about them using a gas grill are probably true. The meat is certainly fall-off-the-bone tender, and that's a plus as well. However, the flavor of everything we tried, from pork ribs to brisket to sausage to turkey, lacked the true smoky punch that makes great barbecue such a religious experience. Worse yet, the sauce was frankly terrible, tasting much like ketchup, even the spicy version. Probably the ribs fared best of all. Coleslaw had good crunch, green beans were fine, and the jalapeno pinto beans rather pale and uninviting. In sum, not the best of meals, although if you and your family are not true 'cue connoisseurs, you'll probably make out just fine. No website either, and the whole effect suggested that the owners wanted to get it up and running as soon as possible rather than take the time to get things right. Still, I don't enjoy dumping on people's dreams, and they do seem to be sincerely likeable folks. Therefore, given what I've said above, at least consider Cobb Switch soon, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Go Texan Restaurant Round-Up Sept 28 - Oct 2nd

2009-07-30T09:13:00.000-07:00

Rarely do I blog about upcoming events. I feel the best way for me to serve the restaurant and dining community is to dine at places and review them after the fact, plus discuss interesting wines and other products. However, I'm breaking my rule just this once to mention the Go Texan Restaurant Round-Up, scheduled from September 28th through October 2nd, 2009. During this week, participating restaurants around the state will offer fixed-price meals featuring locally produced Texas foods paired with Texas wines (and hopefully beers and liquors as well). Similar to our beloved Restaurant Week, but this time with a Texas twist. The founders of Go Texan hope to raise awareness of Texas products and perhaps a little cash for charity to boot. Last year, more than 200 restaurants around the state participated in some form or fashion. This years list of North Texas participants includes such heavy hitters as Fearings, Pappas Brothers Steakhouse, III Forks, and Blue Mesa Grill.

I support this project for the same reason I support Restaurant Week. As a native Texan and longtime Lone Star resident, I believe in growing the Texas economy. If more people can dine at great restaurants at affordable prices, plus learn about the wealth of Texas growers and winemakers that continually pop out of the woodwork, it becomes a win-win situation for all. Hopefully, we can get a full slate of North Texas participants to keep our economy flowing like wine, proving that Texans are always true pioneers who keep inventing new ways to succeed.
Here's the website for all the info:

http://www.gotexan.org/restaurantroundup/

GO TEXAN!!!

Quickie Review #41: 15th Street Eatery

2009-07-26T11:49:00.000-07:00

Assembly lines are great vehicles for building cars efficiently, not so much for dining. Oh sure, if you see dinner as something to be endured rather than enjoyed, by all means go to the local branch of your "neighborhood" whatever and pretend you're having a good time. And yes, these days many chains are rather good, which was not necessarily true in days of yore. My lovely wife The Rock Star and I just dote on true neighborhood joints, so when we got the word on a new place called 15th Street Eatery opening up near our casa, we decided to investigate. True, the place has only been open a short time, but so what? I believe that a blogger serves the function of a modern town crier and that one of his principal duties is to get the word out, however that may be. Hopefully, if the experience is good and the post is positive, others will flock to check out the newby as well, before financial and culinary realities combine to put the kibosh on the owners dreams. So it was that we set out to find 15th Street Eatery one recent Sunday for lunch.

In a word, 15th Street Eatery is tiny. Tiny with a capital T. There are exactly seven tables in the storefront interior, plus another half-a-dozen stools at the counter next to where kitchen magician Sharon McGrath performs her cookery. Enticing smells of baking solicit your nose as soon as you enter, for she is a pastry chef as well as chef du cuisine. White wood-panel walls with dried and fresh flowers and coffee paintings for decorations. Cruise on up to the counter to order. If you're a first-timer, it's best to get one of the smallish menus and have a seat while perusing your choices, the better to let more experienced customers order quickly and efficiently. In fact, have a complimentary cup of coffee while you browse. In any case, place your order and prepare to wait. Remember, true goodness takes time and Chef Sharon does everything herself, except for two youngish assistants who take orders and expedite them to the table once they are prepared. Also, she gives out free samples. My bride adores eating breakfast at all hours, so she selected the Heavenly Hots. A short stack of nonuniform, made-from-scratch hotcakes sided with crisp, applewood-smoked bacon and home-fried potatoes and excellent eggs added up to one outstanding (and, for her, overly large) breakfast. That's OK, if you weren't born during the Depression, you know that it's not a crime to leave food on your plate. For myself, I had been craving a BLT, and the aptly-named BBLT (Best Bacon, Lettuce, and Tomato) more than filled the bill, the crunchy toast, iceburg lettuce, and tomato marrying perfectly with the bacon and Hellmans mayo. (I know it was Hellmans because I saw her dress the sandwich myself; have i mentioned how tiny this place is?) My lunch was accompanied by a cup of earthy mushroom soup and a simple spring mix salad featuring grape tomatoes and "secret recipe" house dressing featuring cilantro and lime vinagrette. We dined heartily yet leisurely, our repast accompanied by glasses of excellent, fresh brewed ice tea. (Be sure and order lemon and extra ice; as it is fresh brewed hot and will melt the ice quickly.) Soon enough, we were quite stuffed, but couldn't resist ordering a piece of the luscious-looking yellow cake with chocolate frosting for future consumption at home. I will be sure to update this post to let you know how good it was, provided I don't have a brain freeze and forget. Website is http://www.15thstreeteatery.com/, but is a work in progress at this point, without menu or hours. Not to worry, the joint is open from 6:30 am to 8:30 pm during the week and from 7 am to 3 pm on weekends. Discover the delights of non-assembly-line dining at 15th Street Eatery yourself, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

UPDATE: My wife and I enjoyed our dessert in the cool of the evening. The yellow cake was so moist it was positively dripping and the frosting was fudgetastic. We also solved the age-old problem of how to divide our slice. My cake-loving wife got the larger piece with less icing, while the smaller piece with more icing went to myself, the certified frosting lover. Everyone was satisfied, and we vowed to get another pastry selection soon.

Quickie Review #40: El Fogon

2009-07-17T12:03:00.000-07:00

June is busting out all over, even if the calendar says July. By that, I mean that Latin restaurants are appearing everywhere, especially in the North Dallas/Addison/Carrollton area near mi casa. I have to call them Latin restaurants because they aren't all Tex-Mex, nor Mex-Mex. Surely, these qualify as Latin too, but I'm specifically referring to establishments featuring cuisines from farther south of the border, namely Central and South America. Many of you are no doubt aware of Gloria's, the pride of Salvatex (Mexico plus El Salvador) cuisine, but rest assured, there are plenty of others as well. Since I've been searching lately for new taste sensations (whether or not they have been sweeping the nation), and despite the fact that my lovely wife the Rock Star was temporarily unavailable to assist me in my quest, I decided to explore El Fogon Restaurant one recently Sabbath for lunch.

According to legend, El Fogon started life as one of the only Ecuadoran restaurants in Big D, but since they have added numerous Peruvian and Tex-Mex dishes, their food now can be best described as Latin. I received a very warm welcome from the family/staff, with no fewer than half-a-dozen people attending to my needs. They started to grill me on what types of dishes I usually liked, but I already had my answer. Outside temperature was 110 in the shade, and I knew that one of the best light lunches on such a day would be ceviche. El Fogon boasts several types, but when I discovered the Ceviche Ecuatoriana, I knew I had a winner. Tomato puree was combined with bell peppers, red onion, cilantro, fish (tilapia, I think), and shrimp into a pastoral delight that was cool as the proverbial cucumber and much more satisfying. Served with fresh lime and remarkably good plantain chips, it was infinitely pleasing, and made me eager to try the many other dishes on the menu. Don't worry, there are plenty of familiar menu items for the uncurious, such as quesadillas, nachos, and taquitoes. These came in handy, too, as the owner's family was dining at the next table and the ninos wanted burritos. Service? Ask yourself this: In how many high-end places will the owner interrupt his own family's repast to refill your tea glass? Not many, I'll warrant. Website for this smallish place can be found at www.elfogondallas.com, where you will find out that Saturdays are Ladies Nights. I'm sure this information will come in handy someday. Discover El Fogon soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #53: Chalone Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir

2009-07-06T15:38:00.000-07:00

I'll wager that few vineyards here in the US can boast of a location at the foot of an extinct volcano. Yet, that is the exact address of one of the prides of Napa, Chalone Vineyards, perched precariously in the Gavlan Mountain Range 1800 feet above the Salinas Valley. More important, they are also one of the few wineries growing their grapes in limestone-based soils. You see, kiddies, limestone is also an important component of the terroirs of Burgundy, where most of the world's best chardonnays and pinot noirs call home. Today, we will be concerned with the latter varietal, as we sample a glass or three of one of the stars of Chalone's fine wine line, namely the Chalone Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir.

The robe of the Chalone Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir is garnet skillfully blended with royal robe purple. The nose suggest definite strawberries, spice, and that old pinot standby, cherries. Lots of said cherries and berries work the palate into a frenzy, with a peppercorn finish. Good pinots are among our most versitle reds; we enjoyed ours with steak and were quite pleased. Prime rib and ahi tuna would be even better matches I suspect. Website is www.chalonevineyard.com, where you can check out their entire line of Burgundian beauties, to say nothing of other varietals. Discover how limestone can improve your pinot soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Tales From The Bar Side #4: Firefly Modern Asian Grill & Sushi

2009-06-29T13:32:00.000-07:00

I've always said that the best lunch in the world is free, and if you can't get it free, then the second best lunch is cheap. That applies to dinner as well. My lovely wife the Rock Star and I are always on the lookout for good, cheap eats, and we do love our Happy Hour. So, whilst idling by the pool one recent Sunday, an ad in the Observer caught my eye which promised both good Happy Hour prices and cheap dining in the bar. I looked at my spouse and we both said, Hey, what have we got to lose but an hour or two and a few bucks? Plus, we might just can score a really neat new hangout. So, with little to lose, and potentially a lot to gain, we decided to roll down Midway to Firefly Modern Asian Grill & Sushi in Addison that very evening.

If you've ever spent time in Addison, you know that the space occupied by Firefly has had several previous restaurant tenants including Randy White's BBQ, Good Eats, and a Texan-themed place whose name escapes me. Decor is actually a bit heavy-handed, almost gloomy in places, but the couches in the bar are comfy and the staff is warm and welcoming, frequently taking time from their prep work to come chat with us. We decided on a whim to start with saki bombs, two drinks combined with a bar game that's quite adventurous. Our sweet redheaded waitress showed us the ropes. Basically, you balance a shot of saki on two chopsticks over a short beer and chant, "Saki, saki, saki," while simultaneously banging on the table. Presto! The chopsticks roll away, depositing the saki shot into the beer glass, not to mention spilling some on the table as well. Great fun, the most enjoyment I've had at this sort of thing since I last played Quarters. Since Happy Hour drink and food prices were so reasonable, and since Happy Hour at Firefly lasts from 4PM to close, we decided to indulge ourselves. We started with Spicy Edamame, the wok-steamed soybeans that are a staple in every sushi joint. Quite tasty, if a bit heavy on the hot Asian spices. After that, we were planning to move straight into sushi, but our staff kept raving over the fried calamari, so we finally obliged. Served with scallions, jalapenos, and sweet chili sauce, it was one of the highlights of our meal, better than versions I've had in some high-dollar establishments. (Some places emphasize the squid too much for my taste; this version was more nicely balanced.)

Appetizers only, we moved on to sushi, selecting a California Roll (my wife makes it a personal rule to have either a California Roll or a Philadelphia Roll virtually every time she enjoys sushi), a Spicy Tuna Roll, and a Cajun Crawfish Roll, all Happy Hour Sushi specials. The California Roll was quite good but pretty basic; the real joy came in devouring the Spicy Tuna Roll, which tasted quite fresh, and the Cajun Crawfish Roll, replete with delicious fried crawfish and spicy mayo. Very satisfying, and our dinner check, with all that food, the saki bombs, two beers, and two mixed drinks, came to just over $30, about half the usual price. Needless to say, we left a sizeable tip. As I mentioned above, the staff was quite personable and down-to-earth, making for a truly enjoyable bar experience. Website is www.fireflyaddison.com, where you will note dinner options that are quite a bit more substantial than our modest Happy Hour fare. Score a cheap meal yourself at Firefly Modern Asian Grill & Sushi soon, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #52: MIGNON RESTAURANT

2009-06-23T09:42:00.001-07:00

Sometimes I believe that restaurants are capable of human speech, and that their vocabularies can be quite extensive. Yet in my experience, I've found most say one of two things to us once we've been properly introduced. The first type of establishment, be it fine dining or hole-in-the-wall, is quite Texan in their approach, saying "Howdy! Come on in!!" The second type tends to be much louder and practically screams, "You Don't Belong Here! Please Vacate Our Premises At Once." Whether it's the decor, the hostess, or just the general vibe, you instantly get the impression that you are not one of their preferred customers and you'd be better off dining somewhere else. Does this sound familiar? I'm sure many of you particularly feel that way about French fine dining establishments, what with their (to our ears) peculiar mode of speech and pronunciations, and general all-around Frenchness. Some of you would immediately feel put off, as if you have entered the second type of restaurant noted above. Well, pardner, let me assure you such is not always the case. Many French restauranteurs can be downright warm and effusive once you get to know them, and food can be actually quite unpretentious and enjoyable. My lovely wife the Rock Star and I actually confirmed these findings recently at Mignon, a thorougly French, totally unpretentious establishment located in the wilds of West Plano.

Atmospherically, Mignon is very bistro-like, a concept I wish more places would embrace, invoking the spirit of 1960's Paris. This means, of course, lots of casual French posters and artwork. Square tables sporting green chairs and semi-formal glass-and-silverware. Curvy booths. Separate patio set with metal chairs overlooking a small fountain. In other words, as informal as all-get-out, like a friendly French place should be. We were seated at once and began to peruse menu and wine list.

Foodwise, our repast was outstanding, once we got past our initial disappointment concerning the wine list. My lovely wife and myself love French wine, but sadly, Mignon stocks mostly California vintages and the French vintages they do stock are on the expensive side. So, after some consideration, we decided on Caldwell Flame Jumper by the glass, which proved to pair quite well with our cuisine and had a bit more spice then most French-style syrahs. I have to admit that when in Paris (so to speak), I usually bypass other Francophilic dishes and head straight for the steak. Let's face it, I'm a true Texan, and I definitely appreciate how the French prepare their beef, generally choosing only prime or top of the choice, and showing particular reverence toward sauces. Such was the case at Mignon. Their steaks are prime, and my wife really enjoyed her New York strip, presented precisely medium-rare (she's my kind of gal!) with Yukon potatoes and grilled asparagus, topped with a blue cheese and sherry reduction. Delightfully old-school stuff, as was my Prime Filet Au Poivre (a retro peppery presentation that was big back in the day), topped with peppercorn brandy sauce and sided with forest mushroom, spinach, and red wine risotto. I requested mine rare, and they delivered as promised. (I've learn to order rare in fine dining establishments for best flavor; if I'm in a second-tier place, I stick to medium rare.) The steak was fantastic, the risotto lovely, although I would have preferred potatoes. Even though we took plenty of leftovers home, we somehow found room for chocolate ganache cake, with raspberry coulis and creme anglais. After eating this delectable goodie, I now know why ganache is all the rage.

Service was unstuffy, unpretentious, and thoroughly helpful, not to mention unobtrusive unless you needed them. Website is www.mignonplano.com. Once again, I found a delightul French establishment and we'll definitely be back. Please listen to your restaurant soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #51: CAFE ISTANBUL

2009-06-16T07:47:00.000-07:00

Mediterranean diets are all the rage. And why not? Fish. Olive oil. Garlic. Healthy, healthy, healthy. These civilizations have lasted for thousands of years and their people are happy and their cultures vibrant. They must know something we don't. I would love to say that my lovely wife the Rock Star and I were determined to seek out Turkish food this lovely Sunday morn, but truth is, we were looking for a nice brunch place at The Shops at Legacy before our afternoon matinee at the Angelika, and were on our way to another place nearby. Alas, the place we were seeking was on the sunny side of the bullring, so to speak, and we had determined to sit on the patio, when suddenly blue banners caught our eye, and noticing that Cafe Istanbul was closer to the Bellagio-like fountain than our intended destination, we made the decision to dine there at once. (Well, almost at once. Restaurant owners, learn this lesson, please: Much potential business is to be gained by posting your menu with prices outside your establishment, for if customers see what they like and the price is right, they may choose to dine with you there and then. And so it was with us.)

I would like to report on the interior decor of Cafe Istanbul, but alas the fountain was in full bloom when we were there and we did not want to miss a single performance. (It erupted every 10-15 minutes.) Pictures from the Dallas location are on the website http://www.cafe-istanbul.net/, and they show metal folding chairs on the patio there. Luckily, such is not the case in Plano, and sitting on the patio was quite lovely indeed. I was concerned that perhaps alcohol would not be available, but our request for a wine list was met with a ready response. It seems that Turkey has a strong secular tradition. In this case, I'm glad.

On their website, Cafe Istanbul posts a quote from a book called The Historical Evolution of Turkish Cuisine, in which author Navin Hallci states that Turkish food is "one of the three foremost examples of culinary art in the world." (For the record, French and Chinese are the other two.) Quite a bold statement indeed. Yet, after sampling chef Erol Girgin's wares, I think that Hallci may be on to something. We began our repast with Kisir (Tabuleh), cracked wheat lightly flavored with tomato paste, parsley, and onions. Very nice, although I would have preferred more paste and spice. So many appetizing goodies were featured on the menu that my bride had trouble making up her mind, finally deciding on a chef's special featuring ground beef and lamb served with rice pilaf and yogurt. Spices in this dish were seemingly restrained at first, then suddenly popped up and surprised her, which prompted her to quell the fires with yogurt and her glass of New Zealand Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc. (Yogurt is served in these countries precisely for its quenching abilities. Not to mention flavor.) The same late-blooming zing was forthcoming in my entree, the Terbiyeli Sis Kebap, a charbroiled delight of lamb marinated in hot sauce and spice that would make any pepper-loving Texan proud. My personal conflagration was doused with Efes Pilsen, a good Turkish brew in the style of Dos Equis. After such an eventful meal, we decided to split a simple dessert. Kayisi Tatlisi proved to be dried apricots filled with light cream and served with walnuts, and was a nice, light ending to a wonderful meal.

Service was leisurely paced in the best brunch tradition, but was not at all inattentive. Our waiter even managed a hearty laugh when I amended my usual saying of "When in Rome, do as the Romans do," and changed the city in question to Constantinople. I did not want another great schism on my hands.

In sum, I'm not sure I'm ready to declare that Turkish is one of the world's three greatest cuisines, but after such a meal, I feel more research is in the offing. Again, website is http://www.cafe-istanbul.net/. Discover Cafe Istanbul for brunch yourself soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT OF MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #52: Hook & Ladder The Tillerman

2009-06-08T12:34:00.000-07:00

In 1970, San Francisco firefighter Cecil De Loach got smitten by the grape growing bug, and went off in search of a winery to purchase. At the same time, winemaker Louis Barbieri was looking for a buyer for his old-vine vineyard west of Santa Rosa. Those two entrepreneurs struck a match and lit the fuse on the De Loach line of fine wines. Just a few years ago, De Loach sold off his namesake brand and went on to found Hook & Ladder, a smaller project that would focus on the best products of his Russian River Valley estate vineyards. Today, Hook & Ladder Wines are attaching themselves to wine lists of some of the best restaurants in town, and one that you should definitely consider is Hook & Ladder's red blend, known as The Tillerman, which is a term for the driver of the back end of a hook & ladder fire truck.

The robe of the Hook & Ladder The Tillerman is violet garnet. The nose reveals subtle spice, such as white pepper and nutmeg. Berries and more spice punch their way across the palate, and the finish is lingering. This blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, and sangiovese works well with all manner of red meats and game, yet is not too snobbish for pizza. Website is www.hookandladderwinery.com. Get bitten by the grape bug yourself, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #50: CRAFT RESTAURANT

2009-06-01T13:53:00.000-07:00

I've said it before and I'll say it again. Diners with limited financial means need not rule out the better restaurants, even in times of financial turmoil. Sure, at some restaurants, a dinner tab can easily run to $300 or more, so some people might shy away from such places. However, as I've discussed previously, there are many ways to sample a chef's cuisine. One method is to go to dinner, but stick with appetizers, soup or salad, and maybe see if you can split an entree. Another way is to go for lunch or weekend brunch. But wait, you ask, won't I end up with an "inferior" meal. Not on your steakknife. If the chef is any good and particularly if he has any reputation, he would not allow the simplest bowl of potage to leave his kitchen without measuring up to his exacting standards. It is both a matter of personal pride and professional reputation. In such a spirit of adventure, and wishing to try the cuisine of renowned Food Network guru Tom Colicchio at the Dallas outpost of Craft Restaurant, my lovely wife the Rock Star and myself ventured down the well-worn path of the Tollway one recent Sunday for brunch.

From the first glance, it was readily apparent that no expense was spared designing the interior of Craft, as is true with most of the Victory Park development where it resides. Very tall ceilings with seemingly thousands of exposed-filament bulbs hanging from them. Exposed concrete pillars. An enormous glassed-in wine cellar. (Our genial waiter later confirmed that there are no wine angels on staff at Craft; servers must instead climb stepladders to reach the desired bottle.) We were seated quickly, the better to peruse both decor and menu.

So, how does Chef Tom's cuisine stack up? Very well, thank you. Unlike FN cohort Bobby Flay, who is fond of putting his own spin on things, our brunch at Craft suggested that both Tom Colicchio and recently-departed Chef de Cuisine Anthony Zappola prefer the more traditional approach. In other words, let the ingredients speak for themselves. My lovely bride decided to begin her repast with a glass of her beloved prosecco, in this case, the Bisol Jeio Brut from Valdobbiadene, Italy. Very clean-tasting, with a crisp finish. I decided to bypass the bubbly and instead ordered a bottle of our brunch wine. The Can Blau, a Spanish blend of carignan (mazuelo), syrah, and garnacha, proved to be an excellent pairing for our beefy entrees. Solidifying her reputation as one of the world's great burger fanatics, the Rock Star ordered the Craft Burger. Featuring white cheddar and applewood bacon, the Craft Burger is nonetheless quite conventional and cooked precisely medium-rare. (So hard to get a burger in any preparation but well done these days; such are the advantages of a fine-dining establishment.) The fries were quite perfect as well, crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, they were no doubt properly blanched before frying. She was enormously pleased. For myself, I decided to see what chef could do with the diner classic New York Strip Steak and Eggs. So exquisitely simple was the presentation that my lovely bride and myself couldn't resist posing it for pictures before I devoured same. The beef was topped with just the slightest touch or bordelaise and was again perfectly prepared medium rare. The eggs were over easy and made the perfect foils for all that beefy goodness. Coupled with my own order of those marvelous fries, I must confess that this was the most delightful brunch since our Valentines repast at Al Biernats.

Service was leisurely paced but not at all inattentive, it was after all a lazy Sunday afternoon. Our waiter even joined in our lively discussion concerning the merits of modern architecture, and the names Le Corbusier, Frank Geary, and Frank Lloyd Wright were bandied about freely, as we were no doubt inspired by Crafts impressive interior. (My wife and I are devoted Frank Lloyd Wright fans; in fact the highlight of our Arizona vacation was the trip to his old studio Taliesin West in Scottsdale, and we long to someday visit Fallingwater.) Website is www.craftrestaurant.com, where it is a simple matter to link to the Dallas page.

Once again, my thesis is proved that a great chef will provide world-class cuisine, whether for brunch, lunch, or dinner. Discover the postmodern experience of Craft for yourself, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #51: 14 Hands Cabernet Sauvignon

2009-05-26T07:09:00.000-07:00

Deep in the Pacific Northwest, down near the base of Washington State where it joins forces with the forests of Oregon, lies the winemaking appelation of Horse Heaven Hills. Not surprisingly, wild horses once roamed these hills, frolicking in the dry, windy meadows, drinking from the mighty Columbian River and generally just doing what horses do naturally. Recently, the Horse Heaven Hills appelation was carved out of the much larger Columbia Valley appelation which still surrounds it. In appreciation of the tough little horses that once populated this region, a new line of wines was created, named after their approximate height. (Horse heights are always measured in hands, and 14 hands is considered quite small.) You know, I could continue to horse around some more and talk about boring stuff, but maybe I should proceed directly to the discussion of the bottle or glass of vino at hand, specifically the 14 Hands Cabernet Sauvignon.

The robe of the 14 Hands Cabernet Sauvignon is magenta flecked with a touch of maroon. The nose suggests minerals, black cherries, and currants. Berries, cherries, and more currants wash playfully over the palate, finishing lightly with Melba toast points. Cabernets are often notoriously difficult to pair with food; not so this one, for by blending the cab sauvignon grapes, with cab franc, merlot, and a touch of syrah, winemaker Keith Kennison has created a quaff that can stand up to most red meat and pork, yet is quite fruit-forward and friendly enough to enjoy on its own. Website is www.14hands.com, where you will learn that Wine and Spirits Magazine has named 14 Hands Cabernet the fourteenth most popular wine by the glass in restaurants, which suggests a double dose of good luck to me. Horse around with a glass yourself soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Quickie Review #39: Jakes Hamburgers

2009-05-19T07:51:00.000-07:00

In mi casa, the after-concert feast is a Food Czar tradition, and I bet it's a tradition in your household as well. There's nothing like live music and beer to bring on a serious case of the heart-attack munchies, so we usually follow up with a nice, leisurely meal; that way, we can unwind and swing a lot of cats, so to speak. My lovely wife the Rock Star, her sister the Wild Thing, and myself had just wrapped up Sunday afternoon at the Wildflower festival (for my money, the best festival in the entire Metroplex), and as usual, our thoughts turned to food. Also, I don't know why burgers always seem to hit the spot in times like these, but I guess it's the serious comfort factor. At any rate, since the Wild Thing wanted to dine close to her casa, and since we love her company so much we usually let her pick, we decided on Jake's Hamburgers, and duly made the rather short drive over there posthaste.

Jakes interior is one of those "C" shaped jobs, with tables and booths arranged in a semicircle pattern around a central bar, but since alfresco season is almost over, we decided to dine on their expansive patio. When I check out a new place, I often try the unusual to see what a place has to offer that's unique, but after carefully considering the Jake's Special and the Texas Chili Burger, I opted for the single cheeseburger, substituting chipotle mayo from the daily special for the mustard. Jake's burgers are rather large (that's an understatement) and the bun tops are literally peppered to death with sesame seeds, but it was quite tasty and worthy of award-winning status. Yes, it was cooked too long for me (I'm liking my beef rarer and rarer these days), but it wasn't dry, and I loved the tater tots as well. (French fries are not all they could be in this city because most cooks refuse to blanch them before frying.) The girls ordered the same burgers (with mustard instead of mayo) and quite enjoyed them. (I love to see women who enjoy beef; it means they just don't follow the herd, so to speak. Or maybe they do.) We chatted happily into the night, and enjoyed the fireflies when they came buzzing 'round. Website is http://www.jakesburgers.net/. Start your own post-concert tradition soon, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #49: MATT'S RANCHO MARTINEZ

2009-05-13T06:38:00.000-07:00

He started cooking in his family's kitchen as a mere boy. A lifetime of success later, he had prepared meals for Presidents Bush and Johnson, introduced Julia Child to Chicken Fried Steak, was featured on Oprah, and generally advanced the cause of Tex-Mex cuisine by preparing incomparable meals for just plain folks like you and me. Today, Matt Martinez smiles beatifically down from on high as an angel, no doubt paying particular attention to his restaurant pride and joys, Matt's El Rancho in Austin where he invented the classic Bob Armstrong Dip to please a Texas Land Commissioner, and Matt's Rancho Martinez, his Lakewood gem, still going strong after all these years. With his recent passing, my lovely wife The Rock Star and I felt that there was no better way to pay tribute than to enjoy brunch at his place, and so we motored down to Lakewood, the delightfully retro city-within-a-city, one recent windy Sunday.

Atmospherically, old-school Tex-Mex places generally fall into two camps: homey and intimate, like dining in someone's kitchen, or ramshackle and rambling (in a good sense) with multiple dining areas. Matt's Rancho Martinez definitely fits the latter profile and adds the extra touch of fiesta with its large banners on the patio and lots of good-times signage. We were showed to one of the metal tables on said patio and began menu perusal, taking special care to anchor napkins and other blowable things so that they would not escape in the brisk breeze.

As far as our meal selections, what can we say? After all, we were paying tribute to one of the greats, and felt that the most proper way to honor him would be to select his signature dishes. At Matt's, this means starting with a cup of his legendary Bob Armstrong Dip, named for the man who showed up at his door in Austin one day and demanded Matt create a special dish for him on the spot. Rich and creamy and not too thick, loaded with ground chuck, guacamole, sour cream, and lots of queso, Matt's version of the now-ubiquitous chain classic layered dip puts all imitators to shame. We would have loved more, but we had other fish to fry. My bride chose the Monster Chicken Fried Steak Tampequeno Style and was presented with a massive slab of very tender meat covered with zesty tomatillo sauce, Monterey Jack cheese and sour cream, and served with rice and borracho beans. After stealing a bite, I understand why Julia Child raved about it, because Matt's dish would do any truckstop proud. For myself, I knew that his chili rellenos had won numerous honors and made my selection accordingly. Matt uses Anaheim rather than Poblano peppers in his rellenos, because Anaheims are slightly milder and will be more of a canvas for the other ingredients in the dish, rather than letting the pepper take center stage. Stuffed with beef and topped with tomatillo, sour cream, mixed cheeses, raisins, and Texas pecans, this version was a lesson in the values of culinary restraint. In one bite, the nuttiness of the pecans were featured, in the next bite the tomatillo shone, and so on. Uniquely tasty, and probably unlike any other chile relleno you've ever had. After such a repast, we felt that Matt's bracing margaritas were the only dessert we needed, and we indulged happily.

Service was quite accomodating, as our charming waitress was careful to inquire whether I wanted all the goodies on my dish (she reported that many people like the raisins and pecans on their relleno, while others don't so she always asked) and made sure to give my wife the total rundown of all the chicken fried steak possibilities. There are two websites for more info: www.thetexmexchef.com will give you all the details of The Man Himself, while the restaurant-specific URL is www.mattsranchmartinez.com.

In sum, I can think of no nicer way to pay a tribute to Matt Martinez and his Tex-Mex legacy than by visiting Matt's Rancho Martinez in lovely Lakewood. Pay your own tribute yourself soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Adventures in Tasting #1, Continued: Screen Door Restaurant

2009-05-03T13:45:00.001-07:00

If you recall our last installment of this tasting post, my lovely wife The Rock Star and I had just finished discovering the joys of Cruzan Rum with our delightful new friend Andrea. We sampled Cruzan and a name-brand rum straight up, then enjoyed Cruzan cocktails. In our minds, Cruzan was the clear winner, and this was no idle boast, as my lovely bride went to the liquor shoppe just a few days later and bought some for home consumption. Tasting over, we decided to proceed with a proper dinner outdoors on Screen Door's lovely patio, with the stars shining brightly overhead.

Executive sous chef Terrance (he of the streetwise attitude and ever-present fedora), started us off right in the bar with an order of that old Southern classic fried green tomatoes, plus some fried quail. Sadly, the tomatoes were a bit rubbery, although the red pepper jam they were served with was quite good. The Southern fried quail was much more palatable, crispy-crunchy, with savory onion-thyme gravy on the side. A great starter indeed. Once we arrived out of doors, we decided to try yet one more appetizer: Crispy fried oysters and okra with smoked tomato remoulade. Oysters proved every bit as crispy as the quail, and the remoulade added a touch of New Orleans to our Southern feast. Some of the best remoulade I've ever had. The fried okra was, well, fried okra. You either love fried okra, or like me, you try some from time to time and wonder what the fuss is about. Luckily, my wife loves it. When entree time rolled around, she selected the daily special: Roasted spring chicken atop a bed of grits. The chicken was free-range, and you could obviously taste the fresh, roasted flavor, but the grits were a revelation. In my opinion, grits are not usually very tasty because they are ground very coarse and cooked until almost flavorless. Not so these grits. They were smooth and buttery, like polenta (in fact, food-savvy Andrea thought they were polenta), and had melt-in-your-mouth goodness. Andrea decided on the boneless rack of lamb. Very tender and juicy, but once again a sidedish stole the show, in this case a fricassee of black eyed peas, tasso ham, and pearl onion confit. The ham and onion really brought out the flavor of the black eyed peas, showing once and for all that Executive Chef Fitzgerald Dodd really knows how to prepare Southern food, both classic and newfangled. My own meal was chicken-fried veal, which added a nice twist to an old classic. If every chicken-fried steak was this good, it would be the star of every diner in Texas. We finished our lengthy repast (we took over two hours to dine because we were having such a good time) with milk and cookies, and pastry chef Erica Nicholl deserves credit for her inspired pairing of snappy ginger and luscious triple-chocolate cookies with a jug of cold milk. All too soon we took our satisfied leave, and my wife and I can't wait to dine with Andrea again.

Service was (what else?) Southern, down-home and friendly, and Terrance was often on-hand to offer his personal touch. Website is http://www.screendoordallas.com/. In short, Screen Door is a true Southern belle gussied up for today's diners. Try her charms soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #50: Cross Timbers Cabernet Sauvignon

2009-05-02T09:43:00.000-07:00

Honestly, in this world the only thing more lovely than visiting a winery on a crisp weekend afternoon is visting a winery located in a historic old farmhouse. In 1874, a gentleman named Dr Dorris moved from Starville Mississippi to Grapevine, Texas and built a family farm. That structure has been recognized as one of the five oldest structures in the city and today houses Cross Timbers winery. Why is it named Cross Timbers? Longtime residents of the metroplex know that Grapevine, Arlington, and the Mid-Cities are located in the Cross Timbers Ecological Region of Texas, while the Grand Prairie region does not encompass the city of Grand Prairie but instead envelopes Fort Worth. Finally, Dallas is the largest city in the Blackland Prairie. If all this ecospeak has you seriously diverted and bored, then please join me in a simple glass of vino such as the Cross Timbers Cabernet Sauvignon.

The robe of the Cross Timbers Cabernet Sauvignon is jeweled midnight onyx. The nose is chock-full of minerals and dusky currants. Black cherries and cassis deliver a swift kick to the palate, and the finish is long and lingering. Consider calling this cab when you are serving steak, game, or lamb shank. Website is www.crosstimberswinery.com, but it contains precious little information about the wines as of this writing. Find your own historic farmhouse soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Adventures in Tasting #1: Cruzan Rum

2009-04-21T07:42:00.000-07:00

When it comes to distilled spirits, over the years I've acted like a most typical man and pretty much stuck to whiskies. Bourbon, Scotch, Canadian, Irish, I've known and loved them all. An occasional gin, rarely vodka (not enough flavor), and more recently mas tequila, por favor. I've also enjoyed the happy flavor of rum, but only when I'm feeling tropical (like when I'm in Hawaii or at Trader Vic's), and have never really considered it as an everyday tipple. So I was rather intrigued when I received an offer to attend a Cruzan rum tasting, and since my lovely wife The Rock Star is always up for adventure, we duly returned our acceptance RSVP, and made our way down the Tollway one recent starry night.

First off, I should say that if you want to attend a rum tasting, it is imperitive that it be conducted by someone as delightful as Andrea Bearbower, the Cruzan representative. Fun-loving, knowledgeable, occasionally tart-tongued (she is from New York, after all), and above all professional, Andrea really knows her stuff and is eager to share it. We met in the bar at the lovely Screen Door restaurant in One Arts Plaza, and it was clear from the opening salvo that, although she was quite earnest in her desire to extol the joys of Cruzan rum, the evening would not proceed without hilarity. She had placed her display box on a nearby settee while we were exchanging preliminary pleasantries, and when she turned back to retrieve it, she discovered the sous-chef Terrance rummaging through it! He apologized profusely, as he thought it might have been a package of grits he was expecting. (I think it speaks well of the street-smart, fedora-wearing Terrance; it shows that the restaurant is his domain, and that any unattended packages must explain their presence fortwith.)

Soon enough, Andrea proceeded to break out her goody box, and the demonstration commenced. We learned about black strap molasses (very dark and bitter, with most of the sugar removed), about hi-test (a rich, caramel-colored syrup distilled from cane molasses that is the secret ingredient in Cruzan Rums) and about fusil oil, which is leftover distillates removed in the refining process. Removing as much fusil oil as possible makes for higher quality, better tasting rum, and Andrea was eager to prove it. At her direction, the bartender poured three shots of regular, brand-name white rum and three shots of Cruzan Estate Light Rum. We first admired the color. While the brand-name rum was almost clear, the Cruzan was the color of California chardonnay, its more caramely appearance indicitave of the sugary goodness therein. Next, we lifted glasses to noses and inhaled. The brand name rum was mostly alcohol on the nose, with touches of butterscotch. The Cruzan showed definite vanilla with a touch of oak. Our tasting confirmed these observations. The brand name rum was rather one-noted, mostly the aforementioned butterscotch, while the Cruzan showed vanilla, oak, caramel, and a surprising topnote of cinammon. Definitely the preferred rum for us, and The Rock Star declared her intention there and then to abandon her beloved Malibu in favor of Cruzan. We then finished off the tasting proper with Cruzan cocktails made with blackberry syrup, spices and pepper. Most delightful.

Tasting over, we moved to Screen Door's outdoor patio where we dined on their simple-but-luxurious, Southern Comfort fare (more on that in a later post), and enjoyed the cool, starry evening and Andrea's company well into the night. We motored home happily, convinced that we had made a new friend, found a new restaurant, and discovered the joys of Cruzan rum all in one fell swoop. Website is www.cruzanrum.com, if you would like more info. Embark on your own spirited adventure soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #49: Masi Pinot Grigio Verduzzo Masianco

2009-04-13T07:10:00.000-07:00

Ready for a shock? What is the world's number one wine producer? France? Australia? The United States? Actually, it may surprise you to know that Italy is number one, giving the definitive boot to the pride of all other winemaking nations. Yet, I know relatively little about Italian wine, and have often wondered why that is the case. Well, this morning it actually hit me: Besides the rather obvious answer that I'm not Italian, I feel the true reason has to do with ignorance of Italy's grape varietals. You see, France, Australia, the US, and other countries generally share the same grapes: Chardonnay, savignon blanc, cabernet, merlot, pinot noir, and shiraz/syrah are usually planted in great quantities in all the top winemaking countries. Not so much in Italy, where the most planted grapes tend to be barbera, sangiovese, nebbiolo, and the delightful little star varietal of this mornings review direct from the Old Country: The Masi Pinot Grigio Verduzzo Masianco.

The robe of the Masi Pinot Grigio Verduzzo Masianco is the pale verdant straw of a perfect Tuscan morning. The nose is definitely floral: wisteria, lavender, and meadow. The crisp acid bite of melons, apples, and grapefruit wash upon the palate, finishing with a nice surprise of minerals. This little vino is just ducky with seafood chowders and bisques, and is just waiting to be invited by a good salad to the ball. Website is www.masiwine.com, and I hope you have better luck getting into it than I did; you might also consider stopping by www.tuscan-wines.com, which will give you a good primer for all Italian varietals, not just those from Tuscany. Expand your Italian horizons soon, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #48: FINO'S ITALIAN BISTRO

2009-04-06T09:18:00.001-07:00

Neighborhood bistro. Two of the loveliest words in the English language. Every neighborhood should have at least one joint to call its own. Cozy, intimate settings. Neighborly welcome. Excellent unpretentious, homey food that would be cheap at twice the price. The type of establishment you should visit at least once a week. In parts of our fair city, such as Oak Lawn or Uptown, there may be several joints on every block. Wherever you happen to dwell, if you are a food lover like myself, you see it as your mission to patronize such an establishment as often as possible, as small places are more dependant on local patronage than their larger counterparts. My lovely wife the Rock Star and myself have taken note of one such establishment that has recently opened in a strip mall near our casa, and determined as always to ferret out the best in food, we made plans accordingly, and so motored over to Fino's Italian Bistro one gentle Sunday eve.

Chef-owner and New York transplant Alfredo Sechi (it's always good to hear that an Italian place is being run by New Yorkers because Italian food is a religion in the Big Apple much as barbecue is in Texas) has indeed created a welcoming environment in his family-run establishment. Wood and marble tables, only about a dozen of them in the entire place, which gives you some idea of its size and capacity. Small prep area in the rear. Tuscan paintings and wall decorations. In short, Finos atmosphere speaks fluent Italian, so if you're from Tuscany or Jersey, you'll feel right at home. We were welcomed effusively, and led to a table near the prep area, where we watched the rest of the tables quickly fill up. Trust me, whenever a restaurant is full at 6:30 PM on a Sunday evening, and has been open only a month with virtually no publicity, it's a sign of good things to come.

First off, let me state that Fino's is BYOB, and that you should definitely take advantage, as it keeps costs down. Plus, you can be sure that you will get just the wine you need to pair with your repast. Scanning the tables, we noted that every one had a bottle on it, save for one family party right next to us. Also, the bottles appeared well-chosen for the cuisine, not a two-buck-chuck in sight. Clearly, we were dealing with serious diners. If you're wise, you'll order salad. Fino's basic tossed salad is only $1.99 and their smart tomato-basil dressing is not to be missed. In many places, you'll pay twice as much for a salad half as good. First success. My bride loves any dish that reminds her of her beloved chicken cordon bleu, so she selected the Chicken Bolognese. Sauteed with prosciuto ham, fresh mozzarella cheese and wine wine with fresh Roma tomatoes, this dish was as light and airy as a spring morning and twice as good. For me, I simply love Italian sausage, and the Orecchietta proved a deft combination of spicy sausage, ear-shaped pasta, broccoli, and zucchini in a tomato sauce with parmesan cheese. The menu advertises this dish as a boss favorite, and I say, Bravo, Boss! Substantial without a trace of heaviness, our entress paired well with the Homestead Syrah we brought, a nice bottle from a Texas winery that deserves attention. Our only quibble for the evening was that no olive oil or butter was provided with the excellent bread, so I would suggest using it to sop up your juices, which was most likely the chef's intention anyway. We polished off our repast with excellent spumoni, and the chocolate, strawberry, and pistachio ice creams lent richness to our finish. We departed as happy as clams in linguini sauce.

Service throughout was personal and caring, never missing a beat. The website is http://www.finositalianbistro.com/, but it's still a work in progress. Instead, merely ask your waiter for a takeout menu. We did and took note that Fino's offers free delivery of orders over $10. Since we had also taken note of the fabulously thin New York style pizzas leaving the kitchen in a steady stream, we most likely will not wait long to take advantage.

If you want first-rate Italian cuisine from genuine New Yorkers without busting your budget, then I would enjoin you to consider Fino's Italian Bistro. Discover your own neighborhood delights soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #47: ESPARZA'S MEXICAN RESTAURANT

2009-04-03T08:51:00.000-07:00

Spring in Texas. Life blooms anew again after the sedate dreariness of winter. Now, I'm afraid that spring in the Lone Star State isn't usually quite as dramatic as it is up North, when the transformation from March snows to April flowers is a clarion call to be welcomed back into the human race. Still, winter brown recedes here just the same, and plenty of March rain (in most years) guarantees a virtual carpeting of our beloved bluebonnets, Indian paintbrushes and other flowers that make Sunday driving a virtual necessity. Unfortunately, economics made even a driving tour to our beloved Hill Country out of the question right now, but luckily, Grapevine beckoned to us with its rustic downtown charm and excellent wineries, so we decided on a mini-vacation, and one of the highlights of our tour was when my lovely wife The Rock Star and I lunched one sunny day at Esparza's Mexican Restaurant.

How was the atmosphere? Guys, this is Grapevine! If you haven't journeyed there, rest assured that most establishments comply readily with the city ordinance that states that all restaurants in the town limits must have excellent atmosphere. Esparza's is no different: Old restored house dating from the late 1800s just a couple blocks off of Main street. Plenty of indoor seating in the wood-and-tile interior, while there is a beautiful patio fronting Worth street. In fact, the patio was our preferred dining destination, but when we requested it, we were informed that the patio was for patrons who only wanted to drink and snack, not order lunch or dinner. I have to admit, we found this quite odd, but since hunger was calling incessantly, we decided to accept an interior table. As it turned out, we were settled into a lovely nook just off the main dining room, where we started to peruse the rather extensive menu.

Rest assured, at Esparzas you will be able to find something to placate your taste buds, from classic Tex-Mex such as enchiladas and fajitas to more esoteric offerings such as puffed tacos and seafood tostadas. You can even order Gringo food like hamburgers and chicken sandwiches, but be forwarned that I believe the Texas Constitution forbids anyone over the age of twelve to not like Mexican food in our fair state. Queso? Of course! On most days, we wouldn't think of dining Mexican without our favorite starter, and the thick, rich cheese dip paired well with spicy salsa and thin and crispy chips. As usual, my bride was looking for anything fajita, so the Fajita Enchiladas sounded right up her alley. Juicy chicken breast and smokey beef combined with very good rice and Charro beans for a quality lunch. (My wife doesn't care for refried beans, but she has become a fan of the Charro and black legumes.) Also as usual, I had searched the menu online prior to our visit and decided on the Texas Tacos. Three pan-fried corn tortillas were stuffed chock-full of juicy chicken breast and Monterey Jack cheese, adding up to some of the best tacos I've had in awhile. (In my opinion, tacos filled with meat and then fried while stuffed almost always beat their simple ground-beef-dressed cousins.) We skipped desserts, as we distinctly heard a winery down the street summoning us to a tasting, so we boxed and left.

Esparza's staff deftly handled the large lunchtime crowd, although I'm still somewhat miffed that we were unable to dine on the patio. Website is www.esparzastexas.com, if you wish to drop them a note concerning that very practice.

Dining at Esparza's whether springtime or otherwise, may very well make you feel as green as springtime in Texas. Discover your own getaway soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Cellar Selection #6: Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin Brut Champagne

2009-03-31T09:41:00.000-07:00

Imagine a woman running a successful business back in Napoleonic France, one who did not just thrive and survive, but a lady who truly made mass-production of bubbly possible with her innovations, not to mention helping to create the concept of brut champagne, and assisting many of her fellow winemakers in the bargain! The entire story of the Veuve (Widow) Cliquot Ponsardin is contained in a delightful new book by Tilar J Mazzio, and I'd love to spend hours covering the contents with you, but since this is an eat-and-drink forum and not a literary society, I feel I should leave off discussion of the Widow herself at this point, and instead describe the merits of her most famous creation in the bottle with the bright orange label: Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin Brut Champagne.

The robe of the Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin Brut Champagne is the pale, cold, clear dawn of a morning in Reims, France, the city in the Champagne provence where the winery is located. The nose decanted Granny Smith apples, pineapple, and minerals to my senses. Truly a panolpy of flavors wash over the palate including washed gravel, apples, pineapples, and tangerines, finishing with the slightest kiss of muted mint. Oysters and champagne are a legendary combination, I would experiment with all manner of chicken or shellfish dishes. Website is www.veuve-cliquot.com, and if you enter your country of origin in the designated spot (Choisissez votre pays), the language of the site will magically translate into English when you enter USA. Start your own legendary business soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #46: RED'S PATIO GRILL

2009-03-20T11:17:00.000-07:00

Who makes the best margaritas in town? If you've patronized a Tex-Mex place or three, you will probably have several choices in mind. As with any selection of this kind, several guide rules are in order. One: The establishment should feature a good selection of premium tequilas. Two: Margaritas must be made with loving care; for instance, if you want a frozen version, the mix should be prepared fresh each day. In my research, I was surprised how many places use the same mix day after day. You can really tell the difference. Three: In my case, a great margarita should be bracing, like a Trader Vic's Mai Tai, not sweet. You should taste lime and orange liqueur, but the tequila should be showcased. Salted is preferred, although I've had some compelling margaritas made with a touch of pepper or other spices. Luckily, my lovely wife the Rock Star shares my taste for truly tantalizing tequila tipples, so it was with high hopes that we set off to Red's Patio Grill one dreary noontide.

Atmospherically, Red's has the whole Hill Country look down pat. Enough polished wood to stock a CEO's palatial corner office. Plenty of genuine Central Texas stone. Inside, fireplace and bar take center stage, sandwiched between cozy booths and tables. A smallish inside patio, but a much larger outside patio overlooking a fountain. In short, if you love the scene down around Fredericksburg or New Braunfels, you'll love it here.

Scanning the menu for suitable libations, we saw again one of our favorite reasons for coming here: Red's features tequila flights. Whether blanco, anejo, or reposado is your agave of choice, they have more than 100 varieties here. However, we were in full Margaritaville mode today, so my wife began with the margarita of the day, the Don Valente, while in the interest of completeness, I started with the basic frozen variety. Both were well made and properly bracing, but my spouse detected some off-flavor in hers, and after trying it, I must confess I couldn't identify it either. The drink was still quite good, however. From experience, we know that any meal at Red's should commence with the Double Cheese Potato Cakes. Savory with a touch of crispness and sharpness, these cakes made me wish that all establishments fared as well with their potato dishes. My bride has enjoyed the Cowboy Meatloaf and the Montana burger on past occasions, so she decided to branch out a bit and selected the Cuban. Better than a mere chain shop sandwich, this Cuban boasted Cure 81 ham, bacon, Havarti cheese, arugula, and mustard, and she was so impressed that she made for our local grocer's deli that very day to stockpile ingredients to make them at home. For me, Red's chili is a genuine Texas bowl of red, literally invoking the ghost of Frank X Tolbert with its rich Montana-Legend beef, red onion, jalapenos, cheddar cheese, and a side of corn chips so you can make your own Frito pie if you so desire. After such a meal, we decided on the perfect dessert: Caborita and El Corazon margaritas, a bit pricey to be sure, but when they're made with such care, well worth the price.

Taylor and Jill provided us with high quality tag team service, deftly taking care of us and the large party one table over. Red's has recently been sold and you can access their new website at www.restauranteur.com/redspatiogrill; the old URL http://www.redspatiogrill.com/ works as well.

So, who makes the best margaritas in town? For my money, Red's Patio Grill does, and is one of the best-kept secrets in the city to boot. Find your Hill Country hangout soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #48: Dona Paula Los Cardos Malbec

2009-03-18T06:52:00.000-07:00

Roses, tulips, carnations, bluebonnets, Indian paintbrushes. Ah, the sweet flowers of spring! If you're like me, fragrant floral bouquets make you think of another kind of bouquet, namely the delicious nose of a good wine as it is first being uncorked in a clover-strewn meadow picnic. But thistles? Really?? Well, in Spanish, Los Cardos means The Thistles, and they only present a thorny problem if you get up close and personal in the wrong way. Dona Paula, an Argentinian winemaker, has adopted Los Cardos as the symbol for their young, approachable wines, such as the vino under consideration this morning, the Dona Paula Los Cardos Malbec.

The robe of the Dona Paula Los Cardos Malbec is blackberry and raspberry jam. The nose presents mixed berries and currant, with touches of muted black pepper. Plums, blackberries, and a touch of red licorice and spice wash across the palate, finishing nicely with wintergreen. If your looking for something to pair with gyros, hummus with pita, and good Greek potatoes, then this tipple is a fine choice. Website is http://www.donapaula.com/, and the Los Cardos line has its own section, so feel free to investigate. Said investigation can be done at Whole Foods, if you so desire. Find your own bouquet of liquid goodness soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW 45: THE BLUE GOOSE CANTINA

2009-03-09T15:04:00.000-07:00

Blue on blue. Heartache on heartache. A beautiful Sunday morning, and my lovely wife The Rock Star was down in the dumps. We had planned on attending the North Texas Irish Festival that very afternoon, indeed we had attended the one last year and loved it, particularly the food, the Irish music, and most of all (of course), the whiskey tasting room. But, clearly, she did not feel up for a drive all the way to Fair Park, just to have fun. Why couldn't the fun come to us? Why not indeed?? We could order movies, but who feels like spending all day indoors when it's so nice outside? Clearly, Plan B was needed. Suddenly, it hit me. (No, thats OK, I was not seriously injured.) As you have probably discerned from my past few posts, my lovely bride has become a serious lover of brunch. In fact, the only thing better than brunch to her was brunch outside on the patio on a lovely day. Therefore, I decided to put Plan B into effect immediately, and soon we were jaunting happily across town to that acclaimed bastion of Tex-Mex, The Blue Goose Cantina.

The atmosphere of The Blue Goose Cantina is very much like any other Mexicana-in-the-suburbs establishment, with a couple of notable exceptions. First, how many other restaurants boast bright blue-and-yellow exteriors? Second, how many employ a Rube Goldberg contraption for making fresh tortillas? A pretty Hispanic miss carefully monitors the device as the blobs of dough are pressed into tortilla shape, cooked, and then travel up the narrow chute to be deposited into waiting baskets for hungry diners. Pretty clever, if you ask me. We were seated quickly on the sunny patio, and Everett took charge of us almost at once.

While The Blue Goose's lunch and dinner menus are a veritable smorgasboard of all things Tex and Mex, the brunch menu is a much smaller affair, consisting of about a dozen Mexican and American favorites. We decided to start with the usual suspects: chips, salsa, tortillas, and a cup of queso. Wisely, the staff will set a container of fresh-from-the-oven tortillas on the table the moment you sit down. Pillowy and hot, these slices of flour heaven were the best part of our dining experience, whether slathered in butter, dipped in the spicy salsa, or dunked in the thin and creamy queso. In short, our starters clearly set high standards, and for the most part, the kitchen did not disappoint. My lovely wife adores quesadillas, and her large portion was studded with chunks of juicy fajita meat, and more of that marvelous cheese. At Everett's suggestion, she got hers with green chilis cooked inside, and their subtle but specific bite elevated this dish several notches above the norm. My own choice was the Breakfast Chimichanga, and this proved a slight disappointment: Though the chicken, potato and egg filling was quite nice, the exterior was not fried enough for my taste and the interior was undercooked and gummy. Still, the dish was nicely improved by adding touches of salsa and queso and I dined quite well. The accompanying fruit salad was fine, but I think it was there merely as a palate cleanser. The rice and beans were very good, paticularly when wrapped in one of those hot, fresh tortillas and doused with (do you sense a pattern here?) queso and salsa. We paired our repast with Blue Goose margaritas, made fresh to order, quite bracing, and some of the best we've had in a Tex-Mex establishment. All too soon, brunchtime was over.

Servicewise, Everett proved quite capable and his recommendations were solid. Website is www.bluegoosecantina.com, where you can make use of their unique map; when you choose the goose cooresponding to the location you wish, he drops into place and the map will unfold. Clever.

Overall, The Blue Goose Cantina has some of the best tortillas, queso and margaritas around, and the crowds attest to its popularity. Beat the blues yourself soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #47: Hacienda Araucano Carmenere

2009-03-07T06:50:00.001-08:00

Phylloxera. Ancient scourge of the winemaking world. These pale yellow sapsucking insects once destroyed almost three-fourths of France's vines, until resistant rootstock could be developed and shipped over from both America and Texas. If you have never heard of the Carmenere grape, it is because this varietal, once widely planted in Bordeaux, was thought to be entirely destroyed in the phylloxera plague of the late 1800's, and seemingly vanished off the face of the earth forever. However, in the 1990's, carmenere grapes turned up in the most unlikely of places, Chile, were original "merlot" vines brought over before the plague turned out to be Carmenere! How fortunate!! In the years since, Carmenere has slowly started to push its way North, and has arrived at such places as Whole Foods Market, where I purchased today's wine under consideration, the Hacienda Araucano Carmenere.

The robe of the Hacienda Araucano Carmenere is plum with garnet highlights. The nose reveals berries and wood smoke. Cherries, berries, smoked Gouda cheese, and spice play upon the palate, finishing with vanilla bean. This tipple would make an interesting pairing with pork tenderloin or lamb with mint or tzatziki. Like virtually all but the biggest South American producers, information is hard to come by on the web; I found a little bit on http://www.novusvinum.com/. Hacienda Araucano's importer, Francois Lurton, also has some info at http://www.francoislurton.com/, but their website does take time to load. In any case, smoke out some Carmenere today, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #44: CYCLONE ANAYA'S MEXICAN KITCHEN

2009-03-03T06:57:00.000-08:00

It's official. My lovely wife the Rock Star and I do not get a chance to visit with her sister the Wild Thing nearly often enough to suit our tastes. A striking beauty with shoulder-length gray hair, the Wild Thing is a true Texas gal who does what she wants whenever she wants to do it. Her Southern charm and winning smile belie the fact that she has truly lived life, and has proudly earned every last one of her gray hairs. The fact that she was a movie star (OK, she made an appearance or two in front of the cameras once upon a time in a past life) just makes for yet another of the wonderful stories she can relate to astonished guests. Suffice it to say that my wife and I can't get enough of her company, so when their mother The Momma summoned us to brunch at Cyclone Anaya's Mexican Kitchen one recent Sunday, we were very pleased to note her car parked out front of The Momma's house, indicating her presence within. Very soon, the four of us rather jauntily set off for a leisurely Sunday brunch.

If you are looking for a typical Tex-Mex interior with serapes, sombreros, and Elvis paintings on black velvet hung on the walls, be prepared for a shock. Cyclone Anaya's decor is Dante's Post Industrial Inferno with an oversized bar dominating the entrance, sculptures abounding, and light sculptures, recessed lights, and purple lights illuminating each of the dining areas. These dining areas are not separate, but the booths, tables, and banquettes are artfully arranged to create intimate nooks balanced by a larger room. We were seated at once and turned our attentions to both the brunch and regular menus. Cyclone Anayas follows the practice of having both menus available at brunchtime, and we availed ourselves accordingly, selecting the bottomless poinsettias from the brunch menu (well, the ladies did....I stuck with cervezas), and our repasts from the regular menu.

We started with guacamole and queso, along with the restaurant's excellent chips and salsa. These days, the trend leans toward salsa with bite, and I'm happy to report that Anayas complies. Guacamole is fresh and chunky, The Momma approving heartily, as she is our resident avocado expert. Queso is very thick and a bit stringy, but the cheese dip was robust and filling. Since our entire party consisted of Texas natives who love all things Tex and Mex, we stuck with a varied selection of basics. I wish I could report on the success of The Wild Thing's quesadillas, an appealing round of tortilla stuffed with Mexican cheese and chicken and served with sour cream, pico de gallo, and more of that fabulous guacamole, but she was carefully guarding her plate with knife and fork and I dared not poach. I was more successful in trying my bride's Enchiladas Suizas, with roasted chicken, sour cream, rajas con crema, and white Mexican cheese both astride and inside, resulting in a cheesy, creamy delight which made the roast chicken shine. The Momma stuck with classic beef and cheese enchiladas topped with chili con carne and onions, and I believe that the use of Angus beef in this dish turned it into one of the most exciting sleepers on the menu. For myself, I selected the gourmet Enchiladas Anayas, one each of beef and chicken fajita, filled with cheese, onions and mushrooms, and topped with melted cheese and chili ancho sauce, an unusual combination that worked quite well, as the mushrooms and ancho sauce really brought out the char on the meat. Mexican rice proved light and refreshing, charro beans soupy and smoky, and refried beans creamy and flavorful. We chose to bypass dessert for another round of drinks, and lingered over conversation well into the afternoon.

Service was quite amiable, although we did have to flag down our waiter just a tad more than we would have liked. Website is www.cycloneanaya.com, where you can learn about the names colorful origins. The ebullient general manager stopped by for an extended and thoroughly delightful stay at our table, confirming that Cyclone Anaya was named for a star of Mexican wrestling and that his career was ended by an injury suffered at the hands of none other than the great Andre the Giant. Fascinating stuff indeed.

Overall, we had a wild time with The Wild Thing and the always-formidable Momma, and we'll definitely be back for brunch or dinner at Cyclone Anaya's Mexican Kitchen. Explore your wild side soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #46: Parkers Estate Tolleson High Corniche Sauvignon Blanc

2009-02-23T07:23:00.000-08:00

Grassy or grapefruity? Sauvignon blanc drinkers the world over ask themselves this question every time they peruse this varietal at their favorite wine shoppe. New Zealand sauvignon blanc tends to be long on grassy notes, while California blanc tends to include more fruit, primarily grapefruit, of course, but also melons and citrus. For myself, I really love New Zealand blancs, but mainly those with more fruit than is typical from Down Under, as too much grass gives me the distinct sense that I've just finished mowing the lawn. Balance is the key, as is the case with so many things in life, and if you like a well-balanced blanc, you would do well to consider our tipple under review today, the Parkers Estate Tolleson High Corniche Sauvignon Blanc.

The robe of the Parkers Estate Tolleson High Corniche Sauvignon Blanc is pale meadow dawn. The nose is most definitely floral with slight touches of lavender and very little grass. Yes, there is lots of grapefruit on the palate, also melons, oranges, and lemons, resulting in a quiet lime finish. Now that winter seems to be ending, salads will start taking center stage on menus once again, and grilled chicken with Buffalo spices would make a most interesting pairing. Website is www.parkersestate.com, but don't expect much help there. (One of these days, I'm going to get serious about my vow to ban all wines that don't have an informative website to peruse.) The Parkers Estate line is listed as one of the Kroger House Wines, which either reflects dependability or marketing, take you pick. Enter the grass vs grapefruit fray soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #43: AL BIERNAT'S

2009-02-22T12:24:00.000-08:00

Sunday Brunch. Merely speaking the words invokes magic incarnate, the will-o-the-wisp meal of the week. More than just breakfast, better and finer than mere lunch, and the only socially acceptable time to drink alcohol before Happy Hour, Sunday Brunch showers you with expectations of Eggs Benedicts, medium-rare breakfast steaks, and crunchy wraps filled with queso fresco and fresh ingredients. What could be more wonderful, particularly on the extra special occasion that is Valentines Day? (All right, it was technically the day after, but let's not split hairs.) With our special Las Vegas lunch at Bobby Flay's Mesa Grill still fresh in her memory, my lovely wife the Rock Star was positively ecstatic about combining the most romantic holiday of the year with brunch. Furthermore, she loves Al Biernats and since they have just added Sunday Brunch to their repertoire, we decided we'd love nothing better to check out the old place and see how it's holding up. Thus, we eagerly motored down the Tollway one recent Sunday afternoon.

Al Biernats atmosphere is Super Tuscan in overdrive, from the villa-esque covered outdoor patio, to the columns, arches, screens, and gentle earth-tones of the interior. Their loyal patrons love the high energy vibe that rules the dinner hours there, but some diners quibble over the excessive noise level and cramped feeling. However, at brunchtime it's a different story and the place is much more sedate. Rachel took charge of us at once and was always readily available throughout the afternoon with helpful suggestions.

Scanning the menu took some time for my bride, not because it's as extensive as a Tolstoy novel, but that everything therein is purposeful and well-chosen, not unlike the language in Hemingway's The Old Man and the Sea. She loves mimosas, so she requested one right away, while she continued to peruse the menu. The champagne and orange juice combination was well-balanced, and not too dry, which satisfied her immensly. I started with a glass of the Penfolds Thomas Hyland Cabernet Sauvignon, and while it was pleasant enough, I simply felt I needed a bit more spice in my glass when it was time for my entree, and I changed my selection accordingly. We split a wedge salad, and while I'm not normally a fan of iceberg lettuce, I felt that it worked very well as a vehicle for the nicely aged blue cheese and smoky crumbles of crispy bacon which adorned it. Let me say at this point that if you decide on a Sunday Brunch at Al Biernat's, please prepare for a leisurely-paced repast, as it's not the kind of thing to schedule if you have a plane to catch. Finally, our entrees arrived, my wife selecting the Lobster and Scrambled Egg Burrito, a giant wrap absolutely stuffed with lobster, eggs, avocado, queso fresco, and more of that crispy bacony bacon. Very fresh-tasting and reminiscent of California cuisine at its Malibu and surf-drenched best. For my part, I selected the Sliced Filet of Beef, Crab, and Asparagus benefit with smoked tomato Hollandaise. Imagine upscale Eggs Benedict crossed with steakhouse surf-and-turf, and you've basically got the idea. The smoked tomato Hollandaise breathed a swarthy bite into the dish, but the beef filet was the unquestioned star of the plate, sliced perfectly medium-rare and speaking well of the thousands of hours Al Biernat toiled on behalf of The Palm before opening his own place. This time, I chose a different Aussie as partner-in-wine, and the Wolf Blass Yellow Label Shiraz provided proof that few countries can match Down Under for quality-and-value tipple. In due course, Rachel boxed what was ours and we motored happily home.

Website is www.albiernats.com, where you can catch up on the new specials, peruse the rather staggering wine list, and become acquainted with Al's brand-new blog. One caveat: Parking on this stretch of Oak Lawn is definitely an issue, so you will want to take advantage of the excellent valet service before you dine.

In sum, Al Biernat's proved up to the challenge, delivering the special magic that is Sunday Brunch with typical aplomb and finesse. Impress your loved one soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Product Sampling #3: Jerky.com Pineapple Jerky

2009-02-13T07:04:00.000-08:00

Ever since the cowboy days, whenever a buckaroo was home on the range, he toted along some kind of snack to make the long trail rides bearable, or so the myth of the West goes. In reality, the dish goes back thousands of years and it's no suprise that Native Americans, both North and South, knew it well. In North America, it was known as pemmican and was a substantial part of the diet of New World explorers. In South America, it was called ch'arki, from which we get the modern word jerky. These days, jerky, like June, is busting out all over with new flavors. A company called http://www.jerky.com/ specializes in a number of these gourmet fixings, not only expected flavors like beef, buffalo, and venison, but more esoteric offerings such as ostrich, elk, and even pineapple jerky. Pineapple jerky? I received an offer to try this fruit-based jerky the other day, and thus intrigued, I had it dispatched to mi casa forthwith.

Examining the package closely, I noticed two very good things: the jerky was made in Maui, the Garden Island of Hawaii and my own personal favorite, and it consisted of two ingredients: dried pineapple and honey. No sugar added, so it wouldn't be too sweet. I promptly opened the package, tore a slice in half and gave the other half to my better half. We both delighted in the chewy consistency and long-lasting flavor with a kiss of clover honey on the finish. My wife said it was great but just a tad too sweet; I loved the fact that the flavor listed for nearly half an hour after we were finished. In the end, we were both satisfied and look forward to trying new flavors. Website is http://www.jerky.com/, the pineapple jerky can be viewed at http://www.jerky.com/product/HJC001.html and if you venture there, you can see all they have available, including jerky combos, gift packages, and a chance to win free jerky. How can you beat that? Mosey on over there soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #42: KOSTA'S CAFE

2009-02-11T07:43:00.000-08:00

My lovely wife the Rock Star and I have recently experienced culinary rebirth. Phoenixlike, from the ashes, we have risen anew in our passion for all foods Greek. Gyros, souvlaki, hummus, pita, baklava, it seems we cannot get enough delights from the Hellenic Republic. We have dined several times recently at our beloved neighborhood Zorbas, even furnished our Super Bowl spread with Grecian goodies (this last meal proved a resounding success, both with ourselves and our guests), thus like Sparta of old, we seek new worlds to conquer. In fact, in doing some preliminary factfinding from this post, I've discovered that Athens, in its citystate days, even sent a failed expedition to Syracuse, not the one in New York State, of course, but it's ancestral namesake, on the island of Sicily. One wonders how gastronomic history might have been different if today the Godfather island were under Grecian and not Italian rule. Grist for the fanciful mill, indeed! However, these days Food Wars are thankfully much more benign than in Peleponnesian times, and in short, my lovely bride and myself wondered how Kostas Cafe would stack up in a culinary sense against our new-old friend Zorbas, and motored to Kostas one recent eve to undertake just such a comparison.

ATMOSPHERE

Both Kostas and Zorbas seek to give you that experience of dining in a Thessalonian home, as best they can considering their strip-mall locations. (I'm very glad to report that there are three Kostas locations to choose from; in this case, we did our primary research at the Preston at Park digs.) Lots of homey wallpaper and bric-a-brac on upper shelves. Smallish dining areas. Old photos depicting Greek dining and day-to-day life. Piped-in, popular tunes straight from the Aegean islands. (Greece basically consists of a smallish mainland by American standards, as well as islands. Lots and lots of islands.) We were seated immediately in the front dining salon, and turned our attentions at once to the menu.

FOOD

If appetizer battles can be seen as small skirmishes, then I believe Kostas was victorious during the opening salvos. Hummus proved both lemony and lip-smacking, and Kostas served delightfully warm pillows of pita to go with, and we were so taken by them, that I think one could easily make a meal and be totally satisfied. Avgolemono means "egg-lemon," and the avgolemono soup continued our lemony pledge to give Kostas seniority in this conflict. However, the outcome began to swing back toward Zorbas with the presentation of entrees. Nothing wrong with the Gyro Plate: the delicate strips of lamb served with fresh tomatoes, onions, and particularly cucumbery tzatziki were every bit as nice as Zorbas. That was the Rock Star's choice, and I wish mine had met with such success. Ultimately, though, my Athenian Combo fell a bit short: the lamb chops were nicely done medium-rare, but smallish, and the souvlaki was a bit dry. The biggest disappointment, I fear, was the broiled scampi, which proved to be quite dry and overly fishy. Next time, I will order something else. Finally, baklava provided redemption in the form of fresh phyllo laced with cinammon and what seemed like nutmeg, and was some of the nicest baklava I've had in recent years.

SERVICE & WEBSITE

Service at Kostas was quite adequate on this evening, lacking the special touch of friendliness and extended family which makes Zorbas so memorable. Website is http://www.kostascafe.com/, and the best news about that is they offer coupons! We'll be back.

OVERALL

So far, I feel that despite Kostas success in the appetizer, soup, and dessert departments, the service and entrees give a slight edge for the moment to Zorbas. However, the battle is ongoing. Form your own expedition soon, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #41: BERRYHILL BAJA GRILL

2009-02-02T13:34:00.000-08:00

Quixotic as it may seem, there is an establishment here in town that combines California-style Fresh-Mex with genuine old-school Tex-Mex tamales, complete with red sauce. In 1928, Walter Berryhill bought a bicycle and began selling his homemade tamales from a pushcart in the decidedly upscale River Oaks section of Houston. Sadly, Mr. Berryhill retired in the 1960's and both pushcart and tamale recipe sat idle until 1993, when the concept reemerged as the taqueria Berryhill Hot Tamales. Now morphed into the Berryhill Baja Grill, the mini-chain currently boasts 14 locations, including two right here in Big D. Acting on a tip from a fellow blogger, and always on the lookout for authentic-Tex-Mex-combined-with-Fresh-Mex restaurants, my lovely wife the Rock Star and myself motored on over to Berryhill Baja Grill one recent evening.

ATMOSPHERE

Despite its rather humble Houstonian roots, the atmosphere at Berryhill is genuine California, from the adobe walls with faux bricks peeping thru to the wooden barrels topped with surfboards that serve as tables. Plenty of signage, from Happy Hour specials to notices of Texas Hold'em poker tournaments. A live music area and a smallish patio. We were escorted immediately inside, where JoJo took charge of us almost at once.

FOOD

A quick glance at the menu reveals that Baja Grill's cuisine is all over the map, from fish tacos and Hawaiian shrimp salad to more familiar Tex-Mex offerings such as enchiladas and chimichangas, not to mention breakfasts. Whatever direction your taste bites take you, make sure you order the queso, a thin concoction with the satisfying bite of Rotel and one of the best we've encountered recently. For me, when evaluating a new place, I tend to begin with the basics. Tamales are what made Berryhill's reputation, and I was resolved to try them. Let's face it: At most Tex-Mex joints, the tamales tend to be on the dry side, in some cases utterly devoid of liquid and therefore flavor. Not so with Berryhill's Famous Tamales, as all three I tried proved to be quite moist and fresh. The beef tamale and the spinach & corn tamale were both very good, but the pork tamale, kissed with lime and delectably juicy, may be one of the best non-taqueria tamales in town, particularly when dipped in the absolutely-authentic red sauce. Charro beans were meaningfully soupy and full of flavor as well. The Rock Star found the fish taco excellent, but really squealed with pleasure over the corn enchilada, made with whole kernel corn, red onions, Anaheim chili and cream cheese, and topped with zesty tomatillo sauce and Monterrey jack cheese. In short, our dinner revealed the full spectrum of Mex choices that Berryhill Baja Grill has to offer, and we are making definite plans to return.

SERVICE & WEBSITE

JoJo was quite efficient and friendly, tending to our water and cerveza (Dos Equis, which paired well with everything) needs with ease. Website is http://www.berryhillbajagrill.com/, which gives some info on Happy Hour specials. When you visit, be sure to pick up a takeout menu, which goes into much more detail concerning Daily Specials and karaoke and other local activities.

OVERALL

Whether you seek Tex-Mex, Cal-Mex, Fresh-Mex, or whatever-Mex, Berryhill Baja Grill is definitely worth a visit or three. Drop by soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Cellar Selection #5: Inwood Estates Tempranillo-Cabernet

2009-02-01T11:15:00.000-08:00

If you do not shop Central Market regularly, you don't know what you're missing, as they say. A new surprise awaits round every corner, from a generous fromagerie featuring the freshest of cheese to a bakery the size of a football field. Gourmet and organic are the words of the day here, plus an extensive selection of goodies not found in run-of-the-mill grocery stores, such as an entire mini-section devoted to Texas wines. In most wine shoppes, a couple of bottles or at most a shelf are all that is devoted to the Texas tipples. My lovely bride and I were ogling the section one day, practically drooling over the pricey Inwood Estates wines, when suddenly, a courteous and chatty rep from their winery swooped in, plucked up a couple of bottles like an eagle after trout, and invited us to a spontaneous tasting. Helplessly in thrall with the idea of trying Dallas' most-talked about vino, we followed eagerly, and were soon jockeying for postion around the tasting counter, simply delighting in the subtle nuances of today's wine under consideration, the Inwood Estates Tempranillo-Cabernet.

The robe of the Inwood Estates Tempranillo-Cabernet is inky rust, with faint, translucent hues of rose. The nose displays subtle strawberries and a distinct yet surprising note of apples. Cherries, raspberries and more strawberries play gracefully upon the palate, finishing lightly with washed gravel. Since Tempranillo has a Red Fruit grape flavor profile similar to Pinot Noir, it should pair quite fetchingly with pork tenderloin and prime rib and even a nice arugula salad. Website is http://www.inwoodwines.com/, where you can learn more about red fruit vs. black fruit flavor profiles. Have your own spontaneous tasting soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Product Sampling #2: Country Bob's All Purpose Sauce

2009-02-01T08:51:00.000-08:00

In 1982, Country Bob Edson perfected his signature sauce, and the result can now be found in Wal-Marts and other fine retail establishments all over the country. In other words, it's a steak/barbecue sauce that real working people will use and appreciate. I was recently given the opportunity to taste a bottle or two. Dominant flavors include tomato paste, anchovies, (very like Worcestershire), molasses, and a hint of corn. Country Bob's suggested pairings include steak, hamburgers, barbecue, fish (really?), chicken, and french fries. (Personally, I'm so glad that people have been thinking outside of the box when it comes to topping the skinny spuds; when I was but a lad, the only acceptable toppings were salt and ketchup. Period.)

During my own tasting, I tried Country Bob's All Purpose Sauce with a simple crock-pot preparation of roast beef, potatoes, onions and carrots. Forgive me, but I just can't see it topping anything but grilled, barbecued, or slow-cooked meats, although you are certainly welcome to try. After all, everyone's taste is different, and often stepping outside of your comfort zone will yield surprising results. Country Bob's indeed made a hearty topping for my meal, a bit overpowering at times, but on the whole quite nice. Most pleasing, it worked best when I enjoyed bites of my repast with a simple Australian shiraz. The sauce's dominance retreated graciously into the background, and the resulting subtle notes breathed new beefiness and richness into the overall dish. Website is www.countrybobs.com, where you will learn about the company's products and their Christian values to boot. Pick up a bottle soon, and don't forget:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #45: Two Dragons Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

2009-01-25T12:17:00.000-08:00

In this internet-ruled, computer-driven age, the wine connoisseur relys on a website to give him primary information about the tipple he tips. However, sometimes information online can be hard to come by, principally with vintners who source their grapes, that is, buy them already grown and ripened to produce their wine. Thus, since there is no vineyard, sometimes these producers have no website. In this case, one usually turns to sources such as Robert Parker or http://www.wine.com/ to glean info. Imagine my surprise when, for the first time in my reviewing career, Googling failed me completely, and I was unable to find anything about today's wine under consideration, the Two Dragons Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

The robe of the Two Dragons Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is rusted plum. The nose reveals red currant and dewberries. Lots of blackberries and rich, dark chocolate play sinfully upon the palate, resulting in an espresso finish. You can match this decadent delight with all matter of Greek food, particularly lamb gyros, and it should work well with game and hanger steak. Website is nonexistent, as stated above; if you can find one, then mister you're a better man than I. In any case, your local wine shoppe should be able to help you out and hopefully match you up with a bottle. Visit soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Quickie Review #38: GoGo Burger

2009-01-25T09:27:00.000-08:00

Every small-town denizen in Texas has grown up with two beloved hamburger institutions: Whataburger and Dairy Queen. Both of these chains feature good, basic burgers in a down-home setting. GoGo Burger, the tiny shop started in Frisco Square by the same folks who brought you marvelous Mattitos Mexican Restaurant, does a pretty fair job of recreating the small-town burger taste in a decidedly upbeat setting, complete with loud, pumping music. The menu is equally basic: Cheeseburgers large and small, a veggie-burger featuring Portobello mushrooms, grilled chicken sandwich, fries, tater tots, milkshakes, grilled cheese and peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for kids, tea, softdrinks, and beer. That's it. Period. Always on the lookout for better burger options, my lovely wife the Rock Star and I drove down Main street one recent day for lunch.

Despite its address, GoGo Burger is actually located on a side street, just behind Mattitos. Blink and you might miss it. Inside, seating for only about 30-40 diners in a funky, retro setting. Step down the small hallway to the counter and order from the efficient attendant, who also handles busboy duties. Be advised that GoGo Burger advertises its burgers as "fully cooked," and make plans accordingly. Our Junior GoGo Burgers were indeed fully cooked, with only a slight touch of pink in the (probably) premade patty, and were rather tasty. I loved the crunch of the Wisconsin-cheese tater tots, and they were probably the highlight of our visit. My lovely bride cared for neither burger nor tater, declaring both were merely adequate and not worth a special visit. I'm inclined to agree, and while I enjoyed the Dairy Queen/Whataburger simplicity of the product, I feel we have better options closer to home. Still, if you are working in the area, and desire an uncomplicated place where you can take the kids, GoGo Burger might be right down your alley, so to speak. Website is http://www.gogoburgerusa.com/, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #44: Rutini Trumpeter Mendoza Malbec-Syrah

2009-01-19T06:57:00.000-08:00

Louis Armstrong. Roy Hargrove. Dizzy Gillespie. Miles Davis. Great jazz trumpeters have made us laugh, cry, and sing with their instrumental prowess. Jazz, like wine, evokes the deepest of human emotions, bubbling up from wellsprings that may lay untouched for years. In 1885, Bodega La Rural was founded in Maipu, Mendoza, Argentina by Don Felipe Rutini, who proceeded to coax Italian passion out of the Argentine terroir. Over a century later, these vines have come to fruition in a blended wine starring the National Grape (it seems) of Argentina, the Rutini Trumpeter Mendoza Malbec-Syrah.

The robe of the Rutini Trumpeter Mendoza Malbec-Syrah is rich garnet, so fitting because it is indeed the birthstone for the month of January. The nose reveals plums, black cherry, and whisps of smoke. Lots of chocolate, currant, berries, and light spice on the palate, finishing with slight cloves. Wine Lover's Page (http://www.wineloverspage.com/) recommends juicy, grass-fed beef burgers as a pairing; we matched it with fusili pasta with meat sauce and it worked just fine. Unfortunately, I could find no website for Rutini, so you'll have to go to another source such as Wine Lover's Page or http://www.wine.com/ for information. Coax a bottle out of your local shopping establishment soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #40: ZORBA'S GREEK CAFE

2009-01-18T08:09:00.000-08:00

Greece. Cradle of civilization. The land of Athens and Sparta, Zeus and Poseidon, Oedipus Rex and Antigone. The Iliad and The Odyssey, neither of which were written down in ancient times, but were instead memorized and retold time and again by wandering rhapsodes (storytellers) who traveled the land from sea to Aegean Sea. Yes, that Greece. Pretty impressive, huh? Well, if you think Greek history, culture, and mythology are incredible, just wait until you try their food. I was lucky growing up to know a most marvelous Greek family, whose Mama freely gave wise (and often hilarious) counsel, and whose Yaya (grandmother) baked fresh, homemade baklava for us on special occasions. Recently, my lovely wife The Rock Star and I realized that too much time had gone by without sampling the cuisine of The Hellenic Republic, and dutifully made our way to Zorba's Greek Cafe one recent Saturday eve.

ATMOSPHERE

When you walk in, it's just like stepping into a scene from the movie "My Big Fat Greek Wedding," or else a private house in Thessaloniki, take your pick. Lots of homey wooden chairs and tables covered with red checkered tablecloths. Lots of little dining rooms stitched together like so many tapestries. Lots of china, glassware, and photos crammed into every available nook and cranny. Plus, a fair sprinkling of Apollos and Aphrodites amongst the diners. (Let's face it, Greek people are very attractive. It must be all the fish and olive oil in their diet.) All that's needed to make you think you're in a neighborhood cafe near the Acropolis is a view of the Parthenon. We were seated immediately at a smallish two-top near the center of the action.

FOOD

First off, let me make it abundently clear that Zorba's is BYOB, and that those words should make your heart flutter. You see, if a place is Bring Your Own Bottle ($2.50 corkage, self-service, but they provide winged corkscrew and glassware), it cuts down significantly on your costs. We selected and brought a bottle of Genesis Washington State syrah, which proved a perfect companion for the evening's repast. Several appetizing-looking starters were listed, but if you truly love theatre (and I do), you will select the saganaki appetizer. Not only is the rather mild cheese served with chewy chips of tasty pita bread, it is flamed beforehand in a dazzling ceremony in which the waiter pours the combustable liquid atop, flicks his Bic, shouts "Opa," then quenches the flames by squeezing lemons over them, adding a citrusy sheen to the dish. Normally, my lovely wife and I love a little bit of everything when we dine, so we decided to split the Zorba's platter. We chose lamb for our souvlaki, and were rewarded with slightly charred, perfectly juicy Greek skewers, definitely the highlight of our meal. Tender gyros ranked a close second, and the long strands of luscious lamb were so flavorful I ate them sans pita and toppings. My bride loved the broiled sausage, declaring "The Germans have got nothing on the Greeks when it comes to sausage!" Quite a statement indeed. Pastiso proved a texturally-fascinating macaroni and cheese flan with meat. Honestly, that's the only way I can describe it, you'll have to try it yourself. Good Greek potatoes rounded out our platter, with enough food to dine heartily and take some home afterwards. On second thought, the Ek Mek dessert may well have been the high point: Ultrathin sheets of phyllo pastry drenched in honey and crowned with custard and whipped cream, like baklava on overdrive. With no more room in the inn, as it were, we soon took our satisfied leave.

SERVICE & WEBSITE

Yanni (the waiter, not the musician) proved both personable and adept, handling the flaming appetizer with dignified flair, and readily agreeing to our dessert choice. (Ek Mek is his personal favorite as well.) Website is http://www.zorbasplano.com/, and includes complete catering information and prices, useful with Super Bowl Sunday approaching.

OVERALL

You will feel like you've died and gone to Greece at Zorba's Greek Cafe. Enjoy their Mediterranean hospitality soon, and don't forget:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #43: Waterstone Winemaker's Select Claret

2009-01-12T06:57:00.000-08:00

As a wine enthusiast, I like to soak up as much information about the vino as possible, where it was made, where the vineyard is located, the history of the winery and the winemakers, etc. That way, if I really like the wine, I can try other products from the same vineyard, and it's very exciting to discover a label that I've never tried before. Also, I really like the possibility of visiting the vineyard itself, as most vineyards are every bit as lovely as the wines they produce. So, you can imagine my frustration when I opened up my trusty Google in search of Waterstone vineyards. Oh, yes, there is a website with plenty of information, www.waterstonewines.com , but there is no vineyard, merely a tasting room in downtown Napa, CA. You see, the vintners at Waterstone source their grapes, which means they let other vineyards do the growing and processing, so there is no Waterstone vineyard per se to visit. While this fact may be disappointing, let me assure you that the wine itself is worth trying, particularly the Waterstone Winemaker's Select Claret.

The robe of the Waterstone Winemaker's Select Claret is Pepsi Cola blended with Delaware Punch, two sodas you may well remember from your youth. The nose is mocha spice, with touches of cloves. Lots of dark chocolate and more spice and cloves on the palate, finishing with muted pepper. Since this claret is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot (with perhaps some syrah?), it can be safely paired with all things beef, but is bold and delightful enough to stand on its own. Once again, the website is http://www.waterstonewines.com/, but strangely enough, I found no mention of the claret among their list of wines. In any case, soak up a bottle soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR ROAD TRIP 8, PART III: YOLO'S MEXICAN GRILL, PLANET HOLLYWOOD RESORT, LAS VEGAS, NEVADA

2009-01-11T08:04:00.000-08:00

Planet Hollywood may be familiar to travelers in either one of its two incarnations. First, came the ill-fated restaurant chain in 1991, opened with the backing of famous Hollywood stars and modeled so closely on the Hard Rock formula that lawsuits soon ensued. Once boasting more than 100 locations, there are now fewer than 20 worldwide, including one in the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace. But like the Phoenix, Planet Hollywood has risen from the ashes of the Aladdin Hotel in the form of a state-of-the-art casino resort and pleasure palace. This incarnation seems much more thoughtfully put together than the previous one, and will hopefully attain success. Since my lovely wife the Rock Star and myself are pure born-and-bred Texans, we desire nothing more than to dine on some form of Mexican cuisine at least once a week, and noticing that Yolo's Mexican Grill was nearby, we proceeded to stroll down the strip one cold and rainy winter's day for lunch.

ATMOSPHERE

Restaurant designers, like many others, tend to follow trends, and Yolos copies the casual-sophisticate concept currently in vogue for most West Coast restaurants. Support columns with horizontal bars of light, a theme repeated throughout the entire casino. Festive colors, such as hot pinks, peaches, and stripes. The now-ubiquitious central bar. In fact, the whole restaurant comes across as one very contemporary South-of-the-border bar, and if you like bars (and we do), then you'll love Yolos design. We were seated and attended to almost immediately, always a plus in my book.

FOOD

When dining at Yolos, you must first realize that unlike in most Tex-Mex establishments, you must pay for your chips and salsa. In this case, it's worth it, for the chef will craft a trio of different sweet and savory salsas every day of the week. Accordingly, we began our repast with the salsa trio, which on this day featured a rather mild green creation which tasted of avocado, a medim-sweet number with peach overtones, and a full-on barrelhouse red with definite touches of habanero. Both of us agreed this latter sauce was the best, paticularly when joined with the escabeche (think hot pico de gallo) that was on the side. Scanning the menu, my wife and I noticed the Street Tacos and having enjoyed them so much at our hometown Taco Diner, decided to partake once again. She chose char-grilled chicken breast, served with really good, fresh corn tortillas (these days, they are almost an endangered species) and marinated with guajillo chile. My test of great street tacos is to take a couple of bites of the naked meat; if the meat can stand alone, it is a truly successful dish. Hers passed the test with flying colors, as did my pork carnitas tacos, braised in a broth of the same guajillo chile and onions. Of course, our entrees were served with rice and black beans, however the cilantro rice my wife was presented with was rather bland and lifeless. My Mexican rice was much more flavorful, tasting distinctly of pork, and the smoky black beans hit the spot as well. No dessert necessary.

SERVICE & WEBSITE

Service moved with relaxed briskness, a perfect pace for lunch, and managers stopped by to ensure all was well. Yolos web pages can be accessed through the Planet Hollywood site at
http://www.planethollywoodresort.com/.

OVERALL

Yolo's Mexican Grill is a shining dining example of the delights to be found inside the Planet Hollywood Resort. Next time you're in Vegas, discover your own planet, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR ROAD TRIP 8, CONTINUED: MON AMI GABI, LAS VEGAS, NEVADA

2009-01-04T12:10:00.000-08:00

The Academie Culinaire de France award is traditionally given to French national chefs for their outstanding contributions to the culinary arts of France, so what does it tell you when a Spaniard snags this coveted honor? It means the chef, Gabino Soletino, really knows his foie gras and can be trusted to run a classic French bistro. When the Paris Hotel and Casino set up shop in Las Vegas about a decade ago, they turned to this James Beard Foundation honoree to run their Stripside (complete with views of the gorgeous Bellagio fountains) establishment, and to this day Gabi is still hard at work presenting his thoroughly unpretentious Francophilic fare to dozens of delighted gamblers daily. My lovely wife the Rock Star and I had first dined there on an earlier excursion several years ago, and decided to see if the quality held, so to speak. Accordingly, we made our way there late one evening.

ATMOSPHERE

First, please be advised that Mon Ami Gabi keeps later hours than most restaurants and is open until 11PM Sunday through Thursday and until Midnight Friday and Saturdays. Nocturnal revelers should definitely take advantage. Here, simple and elegant is the order of the day, not only for the food but also in the setting. White tablecloths with flowers for centerpieces. Basic, unadorned wooden chairs. Vintage signage listing such important details as the Plats Du Jour (Daily Specials). An inviting, thoroughly unaffected place to be introduced to the joys of bistro cooking. Despite the late hour (after 9PM), the joint was jumping, proof of Gabi's appeal to the after-show crowd.

FOOD

Despite our ravenous hunger, we decided to skip the starters. When the waiters at Mon Ami Gabi bring out one of their crusty bagettes with butter, trust me, you probably won't need any other appetizer. We didn't. And what goes better with bread than a delightful glass of (what else?) French wine? Here, we caught a break as they were out of our first choice and instead substituted a more expensive and (according to our waitress) better selection. The Carianne Domaine Grosset Cotes Du Rhone, a meritage of syrah, grenache, and mouverde, paired quite lovely with all our evening's cuisine. Steak Frites are a menu highlight, and as my lovely bride and myself are certified beef lovers, we were quick to indulge. French beef is all about the sauces, and the Steak Roquefort's rich, aged bleu cheese topping more than made up for the thinness of the sirloin. (I prefer my beef a bit thicker and rarer than the medium-done cut I was presented with.) My wife similarly enjoyed her Steak Bearnaise, another skinny top sirloin crowned with a tiara of that creamy concoction that has been the classic topping of beef for many decades. The wafer-thin frites put the French in French fries, giving good potato flavor while still allowing the beef to take center stage, and garlic spinach proved a pungent accompanist as well. Since the hour was late and we were already quite full, no dessert was necessary.

SERVICE & WEBSITE

Unstuffy and unaffected, the wait staff at Mon Ami Gabi was equally adept at handling a couple such as ourselves as taking care of the needs of the large party seated nearby. Website is http://www.monamigabi.com/, where you will lean that there are also locations in Chicagoland and Maryland, if you are so inclined.

OVERALL

What can we say? The quality of Mon Ami Gabi's bistro fare was every bit as good as we had remembered from our earlier visit. Discover if a Spaniard can cook French for yourself, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Cellar Selection #4: Piper-Heidsieck Brut Champagne

2009-01-01T08:04:00.000-08:00

What do chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier grapes have in common? As it turns out, they are the three grapes most commonly used to create champagne, the vintner's pride of the namesake region of France which by international treaty and law is the only appelation that can legally call its product by that term. All others should properly be called sparkling wine. (The USA has a loophole; this is a legal term derived from the Latin which loosely translates as "Our lawyers can beat up your lawyers." You think I'm kidding? Of course!) Look, rather than delve into all this folderol, why not throw a celebration instead, and what better way to celebrate than with some cellar-worthy champagne, such as the Piper-Heidsieck Brut Champagne?

The robe of the Piper-Heidsieck Brut Champagne is straw and hay gathered from the field during an ice-cold winter's dawn. (Which, of course, brings to mind the point that champange MUST be properly iced. Don't even think about serving it otherwise!) The nose is fresh, crisp apples with slight touches of truffles and gumballs. Delicious and Granny Smith apples beg for attention on the palate, also pears, and the finish is lemony apricot. Oysters and champagne are an ideal match (I'd love to try this quaff with Bijoux's East Coast Oysters, redolent of black pepper and horseradish), but any shellfish works wonders as well. Website is http://www.piper-heidsieck.com/, where you discover that pinot noir is the prime mover behind the flavor of this signature cuvee. Do some quasi-legal investigating yourself, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR TOP TEN WINES OF 2008

2008-12-28T14:56:00.000-08:00

Unlike last year, I've reviewed quite a number of wines in 2008, so I've abandoned my previous format of ranking the top wines by region, and instead bring you a normal top ten selection. Aficionadoes will note that almost half of my choices are Texas wines. Let's be honest; I am a bona-fide Texophile, yet I must note that this predominance of Texas tipples would not have been possible ten years ago. I'm intensely proud that our vinos have improved by leaps and bounds over the years, and our Nation can stand tall and proud with any wine-making country in the world. With that in mind, I bring you the Food Czar Top Ten Wines of 2008.

BECKER VINEYARDS TEXAS MALBEC (Jan)

My first Cellar Selection of the year, this wine is a worthy competitor to the great malbecs of the Argentine.

COPPOLA DIAMOND CLARET (Feb)

Believe it or not, this selection from the Italian-American filmmaker is the only California name on this list, not counting the honorable mentions.

DRY COMAL CREEK FRENCH COLOMBARD (Mar)

This little-known varietal is usually blended into cognac. Dry Comal Creek has rightfully rescued it for general consumption.

CHATEAU ST MICHELLE SAUVIGNON BLANC (May)

Washington state's best-known winery is also the most beautiful winery I have visited to date.

DRY COMAL CREEK BLACK SPANISH (May)

Little-known native Texas grape produces another winning vino for Dry Comal Creek.

TORRE DI PIETRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON (Jul)

I've promised once, and I promise again, in 2009 I'll start investigating North Texas wineries more closely. Until then, my heart is in the Hill Country.

LOUIS BERNARD COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES RED (Aug)

Proof that France is more than just Burgandy and Bordeaux.

BECKER VINEYARDS ICONOCLAST CABERNET SAUVIGNON (Sep)

If you were to poll Texas wine aficionadoes on their favorite Lone Star Cab, this budget-buster would no doubt rank high on their list.

BOUCHARD AINE AND FILS BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR (Oct)

Red burgundy is synonymous with pinot noir, and this wine proves that France still makes some of the best.

BILTMORE ESTATE HOUSE RED (Nov)

You'll be hearing a lot more about North Carolina wines thanks in part to the offerings of this former Vanderbilt estate.

Honorable Mentions:

-Toasted Head Cabernet Sauvignon
-Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc

Wine is meant for everyday consumption, not just for special occasions.

Develop your own wine buyers guide soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR TOP TEN RESTAURANTS OF 2008

2008-12-28T09:49:00.000-08:00

Perhaps it's not a good idea to present a list of the best restaurants of 2008, simply because such a list must needs engender rules, and as both my readers know, I don't particularly care for rules. For instance, do you only include fine dining establishments, or are casual places fair game as well? For me, great food is great food, and as my lovely wife the Rock Star and I have just agreed, fine dining places are fabulous for Saturday night, but where are you going to eat the other six nights of the week, not to mention lunch and breakfast? Also, some of the places I favor have received decidedly mixed reviews from other sources. Well, to thine own self be true (as Polonius would have it), and I must report on my own experience, community consensus or not. Finally, just when I had concocted a bang-up list, I realized that I had left two places from my Las Vegas roadtrip off by accident: Mon Ami Gabi and Yolos Mexican Grill. Faced with such a quandry, I made an executive-level decision: Since I actually hadn't reviewed them in 2008, but had merely dined at both establishments, I am leaving them off the 2008 list, and hope to review them and possibly see them on next year's list. So, without furthur ado, here are the Food Czar Top Ten Restaurants (and Honorable Mentions) for 2008:

THE MECCA RESTAURANT (Jan)

When you've been in business for God-knows-how-many years, and are only open for breakfast and lunch, you must be doing something right. The Mecca does breakfast and lunch right. Don't forget the chicken-fried-steak, fabulous no-frills breakfasts, and those oh-so-marvelous biscuits. Come early (or late) to get the best parking.

BLUE CANYON KITCHEN, TAVERN, & WINE BAR (Feb)

Brandt Evans is the best Dallas chef you've never heard of. His Cedar Plank Tasmanian Salmon was my favorite seafood dish of the year, period. Very affordable prices as well, and a recently-unveiled brunch menu guarantees that I'll be a repeat customer in 2009.

JASPERS (Apr)

The Rathbun Brothers show their casual side with upscale-comfort food to die for. Start with the Maytag Blue Cheese Potato Chips, then progress to the Daily Business Lunch, one of the best bargains in town. On my visit, creamy meat lasagna made me almost sing with pleasure, and my wife loved her smoked ham and gouda grilled cheese, which (pardon the pun) she thought was very gouda indeed.

ISABELLA'S ITALIAN RESTAURANT (Aug)

Recognized by D Magazine and Zagat, our Restaurant Week choice did not disappoint with their Colorado Lamb Chops and Pecan-Crusted Mahi-Mahi. Also enjoyed a return visit in November with a very dear friend who is, alas, moving out of the area. I shall miss him terribly, but will drown my sorrows in future visits with wine from Isabella's innovative 25 Wines for $25 list, a practice other establishments would do well to emulate.

KELLY'S EASTSIDE (Aug)

A quintessentially Texas neighborhood restaurant, Kelly's delivers all matter of fabulous fare from BBQ to juicy burgers to one of the best chicken-fried-steaks in town. Kelly's is truly a guiding light in the downtown Plano revival.

PEPE'S AND MITO'S MEXICAN CAFE (Oct)

In a year of fantabulous Mexican meals, Pepe's and Mito's gets a slight nod over the worthy competition. Beef Fajita Tacos are absolutely addictive, and Brunch Tacos are a great cure for morning hangovers. I don't always go along with the crowd, but a tableful of picky food bloggers were all impressed by Pepe y Mito's cuisine, and I don't think we can all be wrong.

THE SECOND FLOOR BISTRO-BAR (Oct)

How can you not love an erstwhile hotel coffee shop that serves dishes which feature truffles? The Rock Star certainly does, for when she first tasted The Second Floor's Roasted Corn Chowder with truffles, she declared at once her intent to become a chef, an assessment from which she has not wavered in the ensuing months.

DUNSTON'S STEAKHOUSE (Nov)

Yes, there are argueably better beef palaces in Big D, but if you love true campfire-tasting steaks in a pure old-school-Texan atmosphere, you'll love Dunstons. Legions of mostly gray-haired devotees obviously agree. Don't pass up the jalapeno cream soup either.

BIJOUX (Nov)

As I remarked when I composed my original review, if Bijoux isn't the best restaurant in Dallas, it sure don't take long to call the roll. Be sure to try the Crispy Pork Belly. And the English Pea Angnolotti. And the Filet of Beef. And the Veal Tenderloin. And the Chocolate Bananas. And, as Yul Brynner once remarked, et cetera, et cetera, et cetera.

BOBBY FLAY'S MESA GRILL (Dec)

Folks, he's not just a Food Network staple, the Redheaded One can truly cook. Sample the Wild Mushroom Quesadilla and the Cornmeal-crusted Chile Relleno, washed down with one of Bobby's Signature Margaritas, and prepare to be won over. You must try Mesa Grill the next time you're in Las Vegas (or NYC).

2008 Honorable Mentions Worthy of Mention:

-Gruene River Grill
-Hondos on Main
-Los Cucos
-Mattitos
-Taco Diner
-Hard Eight BBQ
-Agave Azul
-Zea Woodfire Grill

Again, if you don't agree with my opinions, please try to remember that I'm as entitled to them as you are to yours. Formulate your own list soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR ROADTRIP #8: BOBBY FLAY'S MESA GRILL, LAS VEGAS, NEVADA

2008-12-21T13:44:00.000-08:00

"Be forewarned. Most experiences make you older. This one makes you wider."

In 1967, The Jimi Hendrix Experience released Are You Experienced?, the classic rock album that capped the revolution taking place in music at the time. All rock music, and indeed most music period, is judged as pre-Experience and post-Experience. Why? Because Jimi Hendrix literally stood music on its ear and introduced sounds, concepts, tone paintings, and feelings no one had thought possible. Music was the drug of choice to many people back then, the high that they couldn't get enough of, much as television was to their parents and computers/video games would be to their children.

Today, many people obsess over food, and the great chefs are literally worshipped as the Guitar Gods of the culinary universe. Fueled by the Food Network, a new generation is packing the great restaurants of today much as their forebears packed the concert halls, bars, and stadiums in search of music a decade ago, making superstars of Mario Batali, Emeril Lagassi, Gordon Ramsey, and perhaps most of all, Bobby Flay. I believe even the most jaded food aficionado must acknowledge that he has helped raised the bar and elevated fine dining to undreamed-of levels, along the way setting the example for such Dallas gastronomic icons as Stephen Pyles, the Rathbun Brothers, and Scott and Gina Gottlich. My own lovely wife the Rock Star adores Bobby Flay and has longed to dine at one of his restaurants, so when opportunity knocked for us to revisit Las Vegas at an affordable price, we answered with alacrity, and in due course made our way to Caesars Palace and Bobby Flay's Mesa Grill therein one chilly noon.

ATMOSPHERE

Mesa Grill is smaller than expected, semi-circular in shape, and boasts a color scheme dominated by toasty shades of burnt umber and raw sienna. Large open kitchen, Chihuly light sculptures, and seemingly endless shelves full of brightly colored jars dominate the scene. Decidedly unstuffy for the lair of a chef of Bobby's caliber, and rather fun and festive. After a very short wait in the bar, we were led to our table and steeled ourselves for the transcendental dining experience soon to follow.

FOOD

Bobby Flay, like all great chefs, treats every dish that comes out of his kitchen with loving care and flavorful reverence, be it lunch or dinner. We were somewhat disappointed to learn that the $29 prix fixe lunch was unavailable on this particular day, due to the kitchen being shortstaffed, but since all of Mesa Grill's appetizers and entrees are fairly priced at noontime, we plunged right in and split a starter, then ordered individual entrees. Wine is usually our tipple of choice, but when we noticed that Bobby's signature margaritas were featured on the menu, we each decided on one. Mesa Grill's margarita recipe was invented by Billy Steel, who first learned how to pour the tart concoctions at New York's famed 21 Club, so they came with some serious pedigree. Featuring Cabo Wabo white tequila, Cointreau, lime juice, and fresh limes, these babies mopped the floor with all would-be competitors, so much so that the Rock Star vowed to get her own bottles and barware and become a mixologist. But wait, that was only the beginning. The Wild Mushroom Quesadilla, with white bean hummus and white truffle oil, must surely rank as the best starter I've ever encountered, and one of the greatest dishes I've ever eaten, bar none. Every bite was sheer silken poetry, every ingredient in total, perfect string-quartet harmony, truly a Hendrix-like Experience to be savored. After these two overtures, the main body of the symphony would hopefully not disappoint, and it didn't. Cornmeal-crusted chili relleno deftly wove roasted eggplant, manchengo cheese, sweet red pepper sauce, and balsamic vinegar into a tapestry of delight, Southwestern rather than south of the border. Despite a slightly fishy taste, my wife really enjoyed her Ancho-crusted sea scallop, the crawfish-green onion sauce nicely tempering the scallop's bite. We ended our heavenly repast at this point, since Mesa Grill does not offer dessert at lunch, and indeed, none is needed.

SERVICE & WEBSITE

Warm, gracious, and consummately professional, Bobby's court attendants are obviously some of the best in the business, and worthy of his and Mesa Grill's stature. Website is http://www.mesagrill.com/, where you can purchase Bobby's cookbooks, sauces, rubs, and other products.

OVERALL

Bobby Flay's Mesa Grill Las Vegas branch is a fitting shrine to a man who has literally thrown down the culinary gauntlet to the rest of his profession and food fanatics everywhere. Become Experienced yourself soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Quickie Review #37: Kona Grill

2008-12-14T12:34:00.000-08:00

Most rock stars tour the country with a significant entourage of friends, family members, and assorted hangers-on in tow. It comes with the territory. My own lovely wife the Rock Star carries her own significant entourage, which was ready to turn out in force on the occasion of her birthday celebration, ready to obey her slightest command and have a good time in the bargain. However, there was one recalcitrant wheeler on her Iditarod team, her formidable mother. You see, my bride had her heart set on sushi, whereas The Momma cannot abide the fishy stuff under any circumstances. No amount of coaxing and cajoling could get her to change her mind. So, after some executive-level discussion, my wife and I agreed on the perfect compromise: Kona Grill, which boasts both fresh sushi and island-inspired All-American classics such as steak and pad thai on its eclectic menu. Crisis thus averted, we made our way southward one recent Saturday night, with my friend The Rock, my wife's friend Crazy Cat Lady, my wife's sister The Wild Thing, and the aforementioned The Momma safely in tow.

There's no doubt that Kona Grill features quality cuisine, yet I believe that its most impressive feature is the lively atmosphere dominated by sleek, dark woods, Asian-inspired umbrellas in the ceiling cleverly concealing fire alarm sprinklers, and that imposing 2000-gallon aquarium behind the sushi bar. Speaking of which, The Rock Star and I were in full-on sushi mode this evening and ordered three rolls to split between us, as well as salmon and yellowtail appetizers.
The Spicy Tuna roll took top honors this night, packing a more aggresive satisfying kick than usual, while the Las Vegas Roll (salmon, crab-mix, and cream cheese, tempura-fried and served with eel sauce), proved slightly underspiced, a departure from the norm from this usually spot-on specialty. Spider roll (soft-shell crab, deep-fried with crab-mix, avocado, and cucumber) fared better, as did the nicely-fresh salmon and yellowtail starters. In any case, we left few crumbs in our wake. I wish I could report on the taste of everyone else's entrees, but as no one would share their fare, I can only conclude that all were quite pleased. The Momma left little of her Kona Steak filet on her plate, while The Wild Thing voyaged to Thailand for that ever-present staple, Pad Thai, and reported a successful conquest of the chicken, vegetable, and noodle dish she loves so much. Both The Rock and Crazy Cat Lady journeyed to a similar destination with their choice of the Thai-Peanut Chicken Noodles, similar to pad thai, but featuring linguini instead, and drizzled with savory peanut sauce rather than black-bean chili sauce. Everyone raved about the Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc and Danzante Pinot Grigio we selected to accompany their repasts, and our excellent waiter (whose name escapes me) crowned our joy with a crusty, creamy creme brulee for the birthday girl.
Website is http://www.konagrill.com/, where you can get the goods on the current and upcoming locations of this ever-growing chain. Treat your entourage to Kona Grill soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #42: Ironstone Vineyards Cabernet Franc

2008-12-10T09:02:00.000-08:00

Let me be perfectly frank: I love cabernet franc. I also love malbec, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and the other blending grapes that make up that mouth-shimmering classic called claret. Cabernet sauvignon and merlot, of course, have starred as their own varietal wines for a number of years, and malbec has recently gained prestige, so much so that I think most people would swear that this powerhouse grape was first grown in Argentina, not France. But cabernet franc has been like the dull, forsaken cousin in the quaff world, and only recently has started to earn a modicum of respect when bottled as varietal, such as the variety we consider today, the Ironstone Vineyards Cabernet Franc.

The robe of the Ironstone Vineyards Cabernet Franc is pure grape jelly just before it's spread on a slice of buttered multigrain toast. The nose is toasty as well, with black raspberries, and the faintest odor of truffles. Rich plums play upon the palate, along with dusky cinammon and black pepper, and finishes with key lime pie and figs. This wine will pair well with braised pork with honey barbecue sauce, or lamb chops served the old-fashioned way with mint jelly. Website is http://www.ironstonevineyards.com/, where you can research other pairing ideas and view the entire product line. Frankly, you should pick up a bottle soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #39: ZEA WOODFIRE GRILL

2008-12-07T08:50:00.000-08:00

Who pays for dinner? At the risk of sounding overly sexist, when couples dine out, I believe the man forks over the cash most of the time. In our cozy casa, my lovely wife the Rock Star more than holds her own with our expenses, so I have no cause for complaint. Still, when she sidles up to me and announces in her own sweet way, "I'm taking you out for dinner," and the occasion is neither my birthday nor trash day, I've learned to ask no questions, but to agree quickly lest she change her mind (which is always a Woman's Perogative). She had received a valuable tip that ZEA Woodfire Grill in Granite Park might just be worthy of exploration, and so we set out one evening Northward upon the Tollway, an avenue that so often defines our vehicular travel these days.

ATMOSPHERE

ZEA Woodfire Grill's name is pronounced "zee-ahh" and according to various sources, either means "grain" or "life"; taken together, they suggest the Biblical concept The Bread of Life. Bread, warmth and hearth are furthur suggested in the decor, with the taupe and beige color scheme enlightened with postmodern fixtures and warmed by wood, stone, and a fireplace with comfy couches and chairs in the bar. In short, a setting as suitable for family-night-out as for young, hip singles, who tend to gravitate toward the aforementioned bar whenever the '50's-cool jazz combo is playing. After some quick discussion, we decided our stomachs needed more attention than our ears, so off to dinner we went, where Gordon was waiting to take charge of us.

FOOD

If you like Southern comfort food with upscale appetizers at affordable prices, then surely you must consider adding Zea to your list. If so, you can't go wrong by starting the meal with the Mediterranean Hummus Supreme. Sun-dried tomatoes and calamata olives make this chickpea-dip standby a standout, boasting unexpected carrot notes in its garlicky goodness.
We quickly followed this success with a disappointment: the Zeasar Salad was rather ordinary, lacking the anchovies that can make this dish memorable. Since my lovely bride and I often share our repasts, we decided that one of us should order beef and the other seafood, because I had remembered that Zea began life as a Louisiana chain, a state which thrives on the fish dishes. At Gordon's recommendation, my wife tried the Rotisserie Special of the Day: Beef sirloin steak twirled over hickory. Unlike most women (there's that sexism again!), the Rock Star is often ordering her beef medium-rare these days, and the steak that was finally presented to her was juicy and tasty, although her cut sported a bit too much gristle. My bayou gamble paid off with the Hickory Trout Lafitte, a beautiful filet which slid right out of its skin, mated expertly with a Cajun cream sauce so good that the accompanying fried shrimp were rendered almost superfluous. Slowly but surely, trout is insinuating itself back onto menus alongside the ubiquitous salmon preparations, and as I have always been a trout fan, it's a move I applaud. Don't forget to order this dish with the red beans and brown rice, which tastes of Creole goodness and lazy bayou afternoons listening to zydeco. We finished our meal with the fresh peach crackle a la mode, redolent of cinammon and nutmeg and Southern hospitality.

SERVICE & WEBSITE

Gordon's dining suggestions proved spot on, and his customer service skills were quite laudable as well, taking pains to keep us abreast of the progress of our entrees. After dinner, we enjoyed bracing drinks in the bar, ably attended by Corrina and assisted by the same manager type who was so helpful at dinner. Website is www.zeawoodfiregrill.com for the Texas locations, or you can use www.zearestaurants.com, which will give you info about the chain as a whole.

OVERALL

No matter how you pronouce it, ZEA Woodfire Grill offers good fare at family-friendly prices, in an atmosphere as suitable for hip urban professionals as it is for the SUV crowd. Indulge in the bread of life soon, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Quickie Review #36: Olivers Eatery

2008-11-30T11:38:00.000-08:00

My lovely wife the Rock Star and I love to celebrate Thanksgiving. This year, we were joined by her sister the Wild Thing and her formidable mother The Momma for a day-long gorgey (in other words, an orgy of gorge) of food, wine, song, and conversation, and the hours passed far too quickly. However, our good times were somewhat hampered by my wife's sinus infection, which still gives her fits even as I write this. Although we have been able to dine out once or twice during our holiday, she has spent the majority of time at home recovering, and this morning declared that she could not leave our casa today so that she could concentrate on getting better. Since I give my bride my undying support, I somewhat ruefully cancelled our brunch plans, and instead searched online for a takeout place. Remembering a nice review from my blogging colleague Foodie Princess (of Dallas Eats fame), I resolved to give Olivers Eatery a try.

Olivers Eatery can best be described as a casual eatery, featuring soups, salads, sandwiches, pizzas, and pastas in a counter-service setting hard by the Tollway in Far North Dallas. My wife has always loved the legendary Salad Trio at Cafe Max, and noticing that Olivers offered something similar, made their Salad Sampler her lunchtime selection. She enjoyed the shell pasta, tuscany tuna salad, and pecan chicken salad tossed with homemade ranch over field greens. However, no bread was offered with her meal, and we had to substitute a leftover roll from Thanksgiving. As usual, she let me try her repast, and I thought all three selections tasted fresh but somewhat bland. My own tuscany tuna melt sandwich fared better, due primarily to the perfectly-grilled panini, yet it could have used a kick of spice as well, perhaps a nice stone-ground mustard or chipotle mayo. We really love good tea and felt that the tart black currant iced tea was the highlight of our meal. In short, a good lunch, but I feel my assessment of Olivers Eatery is incomplete until I try their pastas and perhaps a pizza. Website is www.oliverseatery.com, and they do now offer delivery. When you tire of your Turkey Day leftovers, please consider Olivers Eatery, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #41: Fess Parker Frontier Red

2008-11-30T07:07:00.000-08:00

Do you remember the scene in the movie Sideways when Miles has just learned that his novel has been turned down for publication? He's attending a big Pinot Noir festival, so he immediately marches to a tasting bar, has the wine representative pour him a sample, and asks for refills time and again. When the rep refuses, Miles lifts the entire spit bucket, and guzzles it down voraciously, all the while shouting out tasting notes. (In the book, he yells, "Notes of burnt raspberries and truffles comingled with fresh dingleberries.") Of course you've seen Sideways many times, otherwise you wouldn't be reading this post, but on the off chance you're one of the three people in the United States of America who haven't watched this movie yet, I urge you to rent it at once. Please note that it is proper to pour yourself a glass or three of vino to imbibe while viewing Sideways, and since this pivotal scene takes place at the Fess Parker Winery, then it is totally apropos to select a Fess Parker wine, such as the very affordable Fess Parker Frontier Red.

The robe of the Fess Parker Frontier Red is misted magenta from a sunlight-strewn stained glass window. The nose suggests red bell peppers and plum for days. Black and white pepper, currant preserves, vanilla, and definite notes of cinnamon and cardamon will assault your palate, with a finish that lingers. This ravenous blend of syrah, grenache, petite sirah, mouvedre, cinsault, and carigname is fabulous with flatiron steak and barbecued pork steak and burnt ends. Website is http://www.fessparker.com/, which also contains Fess Parker's fan site, for those of you old enough to remember when this University of Texas graduate played both Daniel Boone and Davy Crockett ("King of the Wild Frontier") on television. Get a little sideways yourself soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #38: DUNSTON'S STEAK HOUSE

2008-11-23T08:21:00.000-08:00

When my formidable mother-in-law The Momma summons me, I know it's best to answer right away. Recently, she called me with a dilemma. She wanted to host a family celebration, but she didn't want to spend an arm and a leg, just an arm, and she noted that the guest of honor preferred steak as their repast of choice. However, she could not afford Pappas Brothers or III Forks or any other high-end beef palace; in short, did I happen to know of a mid-level steakhouse that would serve no-frills, top notch quality in a warm and cozy setting? My response was immediate: Dunston's. Since 1955, Gene Dunston and his family have been mesquite-broiling beef to your exacting specifications, first at their Harry Hines facility and later at their Lovers Lane location, which was where we would be dining on this evening. (Some of you may remember their Forest Lane operation fondly; regrettably, it has since closed.) So, fortified with the knowledge that we would be enjoying the hospitality of a family with half-a-century of expertise in their field, we set off. My lovely wife the Rock Star, her sister the Wild Thing, The Momma, and myself picked our way down the Tollway one recent Saturday evening.

ATMOSPHERE

Most of you youngsters out there would probably call Dunston's kitschy, but I prefer to think of it as old-school Texas charm circa 1969, which was when the Lovers Lane branch opened its doors. Wood paneling and carpets with diamond patterns. Pictures of old movie stars and the 1977 Dallas Cowboys lining the walls. A fake parrot and a man in a hammock hanging from the ceiling. A full bookshelf and coatrack adorn one wall, while a complete salad bar stands ready in a central location. Trend-followers probably wouldn't be caught dead in such a place, but the very attractive, mostly gray-haired regulars felt right at home and so did we. After a short delay, the attentive Jose found his way to us and took excellent care of us the rest of the evening.

FOOD

For those of us with long memories, Dunston's evokes dining from days of yore, when such establishments as Night Hawk, Hoffbrau, and Cattlemen's ruled the steak scene. We decided to start our repast with that old Southern classic which inspired a movie, fried green tomatoes. Like its kissing cousin fried okra, I feel that this dish is an acquired taste and was actually somewhat rubbery, but the accompanying remoulade was redolent of spice and the turnip greens were fresh. Next, we decided on a bottle of Louis M Martini Cabernet Sauvignon, and the fruit-forward style of this wine was an unqualified success, even for such dedicate white-wine imbibers as the Wild Thing and the Momma. The ladies soon decamped for the salad bar, while on Jose's recommendation, I tried the jalapeno cream soup. Surprisingly mild and creamy, I could really taste the firmness of the pepper in the potage and not just the heat. The old-school assault continued when baskets of paper condiment containers filled with cheese, sour cream, and bacon bits were dropped on our table, in anticipation of the baked potatoes and entrees soon to follow. The Rock Star and The Momma were quite content with their ribeye and filet respectively, both cooked precisely to order and full of mesqute goodness. Feeling somewhat more adventurous, The Wild Thing and myself upgraded to the prime tenderloin. Beef served at the high-end places such as Bijoux is often silken and buttery, here the emphasis was on campfire texture, more firm and chewy, and in my case, perfectly medium-rare. Bread pudding proved light and not too sweet or cloying, an appropriate ending for this meal.

SERVICE & WEBSITE

Once he found his way to our table, Jose was quite adept with recommendations and special requests, even ringing a large hand bell to single out those patrons with special occasions. Website is www.dunstonssteakhouse.com, where you will be treated to the delightful history of this venerable establishment, complete with photographs.

OVERALL

Dunston's prides itself on serving "honest" drinks and steaks in a setting "as close as you will get to home without being there." Discover their downhome hospitality yourself, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #40: Biltmore Estate House Red Wine

2008-11-21T07:01:00.001-08:00

Here's a surprising fact: The most visited winery in the United States is NOT located in either the Napa or Sonoma valleys of California. Instead, it operates near the largest private house in North America (not actually at the house, but just down the road in a separate facility), specifically The Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina. Built by George Vanderbilt in 1895, the Biltmore house and legacy are preserved today by great-grandson William Cecil, who is also direct descendant and namesake of Lord Burghley, Lord Chancellor to Queen Elizabeth I of England. If all this talk of history and royalty muddles your head, then William Cecil the younger might have an excellent solution: Try a glass or three of one of the Biltmore Estates renown wines, in this case the Biltmore Estate House Red Wine.

The robe of the Biltmore Estate House Red Wine is deep garnet, the perfect color of January's birthstone. The nose is musty plum, with light touches of blueberry. Black currant, blackberry and black pepper play softly upon the palate, resolving themselves into a surprising finish of ginger. This very approachable quaff is marvelous when paired with pork chops and grilled meats, but is also uncomplicated enough to be served with pizza. Website is http://www.biltmore.com/, where you will learn that there is much more to Biltmore than just a big house. Imbibe your history lesson soon, and of course:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Quickie Review #35: The Counter Custom Built Burgers

2008-11-16T10:44:00.000-08:00

As Americans, we pride ourselves on individual freedoms. Freedom to worship, work, and speak in any manner we see fit, as long as we're not yelling "Fire" in the proverbial crowded theatre. We particularly cherish freedom of choice. By God, we will shop, eat, and drink wherever we choose, whenever we choose, for as long as our precious dollars last. The Counter, a year-old denizen of The Shops at Legacy in Plano, has built a burgeoning burger empire on this very idea, giving patrons the opportunity to construct their own burger any way they so desire, as well as offering a limited number of sandwiches, bar food (there is a full bar, if you're so inclined), fountain shakes, and other goodies for the intrepid adventurer. My lovely wife the Rock Star has long been intrigued by the concept, and since she always intrigues me, we decided to scoot our metaphorical boots northward one recent Saturday lunchtime.

Parking in the front of the restaurant is competitive, and patrons are limited to one hour, so please plan accordingly. The Shops at Legacy does have a central parking garage and that may be your best bet if you plan on lingering and don't mind a brisk walk. Interior is Spartan minimalist, with clean lines, high ceilings, and simple metal chairs. Walking in, we were quickly handed a clipboard by one of the Surfer-Dude-esque waitstaff, who politely explained the concept to us. Basically, The Counter works like your standard sushi joint, where you mark your own selections on said clipboard, then wait patiently for the (hopefully) magical results to arrive.
Scanning the options, we both decided not to partake of the premade burgers, but rather jump off the deep end into the build-your-own waters. The Counter offers four choices of protein (beef, chicken, turkey, and veggie), which can be customized by a dizzying array of sauces and toppings, resulting in literally thousands of possible combinations. Also, you can have your burger on a bun or in a bowl, with lettuce or baby greens substituting for the bread, very convenient if you're watching you carbs. My wife decided on the traditional approach, with beef, Tillamook cheddar, hard-boiled eggs, lettuce, fried onion strings, dill pickle chips, and ranch dressing astride a rather conventional bun. She was quite happy with the results, although I tasted it and felt it needed a kick of spice. The beef is custom-grilled Angus, medium unless requested otherwise, and was indeed quite tasty although the patty seemed premade and slightly tough texturally. I decided to forego the bun, and instead had my beef in a bowl of baby greens, with Danish bleu cheese, Bermuda red onion, roasted corn and black bean salsa, pepperoncinis, and roasted red peppers, served with a side of Southwest Caesar. Personally, I found this approach more successful than my wife's choice, the Danish cheese adding richness to the dish, balanced nicely by the beef, salsa, and Caesar kick, resulting in a seductive burger salad that I devoured happily. We also ordered cheese fries, and they were good, particularly when dipped in the Caesar and not the accompanying ranch, which was rather boring. Service was pleasant but preoccupied and forgetful, and we were left alone for rather long stretches of time. Website is http://www.thecounterburger.com/, where among other things, they feature a Counter Culture Community, which gives you the opportunity to interact with like-minded burger fans, and perhaps win a gift card in the bargain. Exercise your freedom of choice soon, and don't forget:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Wine Corner Review #39: Campo Viejo Crianza Tempranillo

2008-11-12T07:02:00.000-08:00

When you ask most red wine conesseurs to name their favorite varietals, most would respond with cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, syrah/shiraz, or maybe merlot. I posed the question recently to my colleague Classy and Sassy (a Wine Chick known to readers of D Magazine Sidedish blog and her own Dallas Eats blog), and she responded with tempranillo as one of her choices. I knew, of course, that tempranillo was practically the most important wine grape of Spain, and that the Rioja region, in particular, was known for producing quality tempranillo tipples of good value. After a little internal consultation, I decided some further research was in the offing, and the upshot of all this folderol was the wine I bring to you today, the Campo Viejo ("old friend") Crianza Tempranillo.

The robe of the Campo Viejo Crianza Tempranillo is regal rust. The nose suggests plum, raisins, and white chocolate. The palate is cleansed with black cherry, leather, maple wood, and more plum, finishing nicely with vanilla. This tempramental tempranillo can best be tamed by pairing with saucy veal, pork tenderloin, or tuna tartare, and will also work well with dishes featuring beans. Website is www.domeqbodegas.com, but unless you're fluent in Spanish, I would not suggest this option; you'll have to go further afield to such websites as www.wine.com to get your questions answered. Enjoy a bottle of this classy tempranillo today, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Quickie Review #34: Scardello Artisan Cheese

2008-11-08T12:19:00.000-08:00

My colleague Donna Chen founded the blog Donna Cooks, which should be essential reading every day for all Dallas food lovers. As my lovely wife the Rock Star so eloquently puts it, she has her finger planted firmly on the pulse of the Dallas food scene, and so when she reports that Scardello Artisan Cheese opened in Oak Lawn, we were quick to respond to her call. In particular, we were taken with the final line of her review, which suggested that a tasting at Scardello's was "a lovely way to spend an hour or a relaxing afternoon," and since we are staunch defenders of the concept of weekends that feel like vacations, we eagerly pointed the car down the Tollway in search of fromage one recent Saturday afternoon.

Scardello's interior leisurely evokes a small town downtown vacation, with exposed original brickwork in its narrow 1920's storefront (with extra parking in the rear.) High ceilings create an open, airy feel. Large display case of said cheese and a cooler for wine stand along one side of the store, while a wine shelf and salt bar/bookshelf dominate the other, with a scattering of tables at the back. In short order, Rich The Cheesemonger and his sidekicks explained the setup. We decided to purchase a sampler plate of four cheeses and an accompanying pair of white wines to make a light lunch. Soon, we began our repast with Hoja Santa, a young goats-milk Texas cheese (a mere kid, as it were) wrapped in the Hoja Santa leaf, which imparted touches of pepper and sassafrass with a slight finish of mint. Next, we progressed to the Marin (California) Yellow Brick, a cows-milk Camembert which was similar to brie but with a slightly stronger, more nutty flavor that really pleased my lovely bride. Then, we moved on to the Idiazabal Raw, a sheep's-milk selection with a slightly smoky bite reminiscent of Gouda, which made it very gouda to a smoked cheese lover like myself. Finally, we finished with Bosque Blue, a raw cows-milk number as salty as an old vaudeville trouper like Irene Ryan and twice as intense. Throughout, we paired our bites with Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc, and a blanc de blancs sparkling wine with pear notes which worked well with each of the cheeses, not to mention olives and almonds, which added nice savory touches. Thoroughly sated, we soon took our leave. Website is
http://www.scardellocheese.com/, where you will note that they have already started having tasting events; please log on if you wish to secure reservations with your credit card. Finally, they will not only take your email address for their mailing list, if you so desire, they will also record your cheese preferences in their database, so you won't have to worry about remembering what you ordered last time if you wish to enjoy it again. Next time you wish to spend a lovely afternoon on vacation, please consider cheese, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!